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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:36 PM   #7336
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Hmm, interesting. I wonder if the FT shock mounts and balls keep the cap from wearing out so fast. Mine were sloppy as hell after a couple weekends. But the alum caps on the original shock mounts from the kit and no slop. So I can only conclude all of the slop was in the plastic cap.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:45 PM   #7337
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Mine were kinda sticking some on one car but not on the other.

Place each ball stud in my dremel.
Spun it while in the actual cup for about 5-10 sec.
Popped the ball cup off and spun the ball stud against a scotch brite pad to polish it.
Spray Liquid Wrench silicone spray on a rag and spun the ball stud on it.

Popped it all back together and no more bind. took about 2 or 3 min each ball stud.

Mind you I tried doing the pinching trick, tried multiple things. This method proved the most consistent and reliable. Also it was weird. One car had zero binding, one car had every cup binding. So I completely understand why some guys were complaining about it earlier while others were saying they had none.

*queue 4 pages of ball cup talks starting............. now*

But the BS thing about it all was the attacking of people that had a legitimate issue. The pinch method was BS and I'll tell it to the face of our locals that posted it was the best thing since sliced bread. 5 kits and 5 pos sets of ball cups but im sure we all did something wrong......lol. Thanks for the tip. Glad I kept my Yokomo hardware if this doesn't work.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:47 PM   #7338
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If I were AE I would come out with a FT ball cup reamer for the cups lol. so people could free them up to their liking....plus AE could make some money off the FT tool
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:52 PM   #7339
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If I were AE I would come out with a FT ball cup reamer for the cups lol. so people could free them up to their liking....plus AE could make some money off the FT tool
Or go back to the old ballstud size so rpm's will work.....lol
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:54 PM   #7340
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Or go back to the old ballstud size so rpm's will work.....lol
you can always use tlr studs and cups. maybe even your yokomo stuff. If you have the 2inch links even better. Because the TLR stuff is shorter. Anyway, I like the idea behind the AE stuff and once it breaks in, its better. Mine are 6 months old and have no slop. And are the fairly free. Not tlr free, but free "enough"
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:56 PM   #7341
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Were the top 2 in stock buggy at nats running mid-motor? B5M? I bought a B5 rear motor to build a stock car. Is mid the way to go now? lol Might sell it anyways and get a wheeler instead if anyone is looking for a real nice B5 rear motor car.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:07 PM   #7342
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MM took 1st and second. And both were B5M's. The RM car were much better until the traction came way up. Also, once the track started to rut, having the alum chassis down low helped keep the cars from bouncing all over. There were RM cars in the Amain and in the better drivers won. And they probably would have won with an RM car also.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:21 PM   #7343
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For those having ball cup issues (I realize it's only some of us) here's my trick. I've tried quite a few things but this seems to work best.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:39 PM   #7344
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My b5m diff has held up too since bought the kit first day till last race. Got all gritty and the thrust washer had blew apart. Buts thats alot runs too

A diff gets gritty two ways.

First is slipping

then bad thrust

Slipping is from running too loose, run it tight.
Learn what tight feels like by checking the fast cars your self.

Then make sure the slipper is not locked or too tight .

Thrust goes bad from being tighten down to hard . Easy to break or crush the part.
Then in dusty conditions easy to pack the thrush with dirt and ruin the part.
Can use a little swab of cotton off a Q tip before installing cover to stop that from occurring.

Just some of my experience with ball diff's.
Know all about gear diff too, run 1/8 scale & Short Bus

Think both diff's have their strengths and weaknesses.
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:55 PM   #7345
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Its an angled wing shim to adjust the wing. no shim...3 degrees, with shim...6 degrees and reverse shim...0 degrees. if you use the 3 degree (no shim) then you run the shim on top of the wing.
Good info, first time I have seen and actually it spelled out to make sense. Thanks
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:49 AM   #7346
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one thing that i noticed on the ball studs is that they are all NOT perfectly round. Some you can see that there is almost a flat ridge in the middle. I don't believe the ball cups are the issue it is more of the ball stud not being completely round. Once you sand and polish the ridges off of them they are bind free.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:07 AM   #7347
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one thing that i noticed on the ball studs is that they are all NOT perfectly round. Some you can see that there is almost a flat ridge in the middle. I don't believe the ball cups are the issue it is more of the ball stud not being completely round. Once you sand and polish the ridges off of them they are bind free.
I have come to the same conclusion. Each of the ball studs in my MM had a flat spot and when I upgraded to Lunsford ball studs the binding was gone.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:11 AM   #7348
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MM took 1st and second. And both were B5M's. The RM car were much better until the traction came way up. Also, once the track started to rut, having the alum chassis down low helped keep the cars from bouncing all over. There were RM cars in the Amain and in the better drivers won. And they probably would have won with an RM car also.
I ran with the kid who was running the RM during practice when the track was semi-slick and smooth and had no problem staying with him. We mostly just followed each other and tried to lay down some fast laps, I think I hot lapped him by 2 tenths. So I wouldn't say it was the bumps or traction that held it back, I think it's more of a personal preference. There was 7 B5 buggies in the a-main of stock, and only one was a RM.

I know Jeremy (who won) had built a RM a few months ago, ran it probably 15 minutes in practice and sold it. I did the same thing. It may just be a florida thing where everyone hates RM.

The RM may jump a little farther or have more traction when the track is super loose, but in every other area the mid is probably better.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:25 AM   #7349
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I have come to the same conclusion. Each of the ball studs in my MM had a flat spot and when I upgraded to Lunsford ball studs the binding was gone.
I did not experience that problem. All it took to get rid of the binding was to squeeze the ball cups with a needle nose pliers. I have heard a lot of people say they like the lunsford ones though
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:37 AM   #7350
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I ran with the kid who was running the RM during practice when the track was semi-slick and smooth and had no problem staying with him. We mostly just followed each other and tried to lay down some fast laps, I think I hot lapped him by 2 tenths. So I wouldn't say it was the bumps or traction that held it back, I think it's more of a personal preference. There was 7 B5 buggies in the a-main of stock, and only one was a RM.

I know Jeremy (who won) had built a RM a few months ago, ran it probably 15 minutes in practice and sold it. I did the same thing. It may just be a florida thing where everyone hates RM.

The RM may jump a little farther or have more traction when the track is super loose, but in every other area the mid is probably better.
I have both cars. I like things about both. The MM would be my first choice, but no mater how hard I try, lol. I just make more mistakes with the MM. If those mistakes went away, I am sure I would be faster with the MM. The MM car just does something "unexpected" more often than the RM. When I rebuild my car, I may go back to MM. Our new layout is in and it looks like a bunch or 180's.

Here is the new layout at SRS. I have not seen it yet. Today is the first day it is open to the public. I dont know what the far left and right sides look like.


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