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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:18 PM   #7321
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I found the plastic caps got play in them rather fast and my alum caps have stayed slop free for months.
What more do you need to know? How to keep them clean? I can do that!
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:20 PM   #7322
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Aluminum vs Plastic shock caps. Please discuss. I see that most everyone including the pros use the plastic caps. I found the plastic caps got play in them rather fast and my alum caps have stayed slop free for months.
I switched to the aluminum cap also, as the bleed screw hole threads in one of the plastic cap was stripped.

The plastics are cheap enough to replace a maintenance item and are a little lighter helping to keep the CG lower.

I did notice the new FT B44.3 comes with the plastic caps too.
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:25 PM   #7323
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Never seen someone go faster on clay with a gear diff till now.
I'm more consistent too with gear diffs. Usually I run between 2k up to 12k 5k and 8k being intermediates as it is pretty subtle to me at least.
Funny that this has come up as I, again, snapped the tension screw on it lol. Did this on the 22 as well... Oh well ball diffs don't like me I guess and I'm useless with them.
The only ball diffs that didn't go on me was the schumachers,xray and kyosho. When they were knew I could feel a little clicking noise/feel. I should've gone straight for the ceramic balls...
Anyway I ordered the gear diff for the B5m as I run mostly on carpet/astro with very few slippy sections where all I'm asking the car is do it's best to not loose too much time there.
I really like the fact that it's tunable quite finely,can be repeated without tests (no pressure to guess), really reliable and tough. You can safely hold the rear wheels down and full the throttle to set the slipper to just lifting the nose.
The 22 gear diff only leaked a bit after 6-7 months of weekly usage. So that's about 50-60 hours plus races. I'll see if the b5 can beat that . The gears inside were in pristine condition btw.

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Old 08-25-2014, 04:47 PM   #7324
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I'll also add that AE's parts quality has really improved. I definitely can't complain about any of my B5s wearing parts fast. I've done a lot of racing and practice lately and the outdrives on my non-pucks cars are all still near perfect after a couple months.
And that was really the only complaint about previous cars. Now that they have really up'd their game in parts quality... Why would you not run AE? I'm excited to build a B5M.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:08 PM   #7325
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Johnatan

So far my ball diff is original from the first day I built the kit.
Its still smooth & tight.
My top shaft, gears, CVA & drive cups are all shot .
Worn out from mass packs.

I get to replace all of it soon for our N/w Gold Cup next month.

You should be getting the same wear & tear from the B5 ball diff .

not sure why your having difficulties.

I always use the ceramic diff balls & kit thrust bearing.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:16 PM   #7326
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Johnatan

So far my ball diff is original from the first day I built the kit.
Its still smooth & tight.
My top shaft, gears, CVA & drive cups are all shot .
Worn out from mass packs.

I get to replace all of it soon for our N/w Gold Cup next month.

You should be getting the same wear & tear from the B5 ball diff .

not sure why your having difficulties.

I always use the ceramic diff balls & kit thrust bearing.
My b5m diff has held up too since bought the kit first day till last race. Got all gritty and the thrust washer had blew apart. Buts thats alot runs too
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:29 PM   #7327
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I didnt like mine at 1600. I like it around 1550 myself. If he was 1600, he must not have run the pucks and light weight tranny/slipper parts. Because those should put you under 1600 unless you put brass on the car.
Pucks and all the light weight stuff
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:00 PM   #7328
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I want to use my B5m on an onroad track.

I've been looking for road rage tires for this car but I can only find rear tires. Can't even find mentions of road rage tires for the front at all.

Are there any other tires that would work OK onroad?
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:46 PM   #7329
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How do I free up my ballcups? Some are good some bind, help
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:50 PM   #7330
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Believe my question got missed:

"Anyone care to share what ESC settings they are running on a LRP SXX for mod buggy (9.5)?

Also what about ESC settings for a 17.5 buggy?

Never really messed with the settings before but figured I might as well."
Running mine with a reedy sonic 2 9.5. I run a 81 spur and 25pinion.

Feel is stock #3 setting i believe. And boost at #5. No drag brake.
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:53 PM   #7331
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How do I free up my ballcups? Some are good some bind, help
Mine were kinda sticking some on one car but not on the other.

Place each ball stud in my dremel.
Spun it while in the actual cup for about 5-10 sec.
Popped the ball cup off and spun the ball stud against a scotch brite pad to polish it.
Spray Liquid Wrench silicone spray on a rag and spun the ball stud on it.

Popped it all back together and no more bind. took about 2 or 3 min each ball stud.

Mind you I tried doing the pinching trick, tried multiple things. This method proved the most consistent and reliable. Also it was weird. One car had zero binding, one car had every cup binding. So I completely understand why some guys were complaining about it earlier while others were saying they had none.

*queue 4 pages of ball cup talks starting............. now*
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:22 PM   #7332
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Pucks and all the light weight stuff
hmm, he had a shorty servo too. All I have is light weight slipper, topshaft, some ti screws, alum hexes, alum shock caps, alum rack, alum front hexes, alum rear ball stud mount and ft axles. No pucks and I am 1570. I would think he was lighter with pucks. oh and I use chassis tape. Regardless. I like the car in the mid 1500's. If I ever add pucks, I will probably try to get more weight in the rear. maybe the front brass suspension holder. seems like a good place for weight. I have never ever likes a super light car. And as bumpy as nats was, I would think more weight was more planted.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:50 PM   #7333
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I picked up the new servo from xpert. It looks great and comes with a nice short lead for the b5m. But the steering link hits the case.
Who makes the Xpert servos?
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:09 PM   #7334
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Who makes the Xpert servos?
Xpert makes their own and you can get them from shop viper.

Some nice new stuff on the way too but gotta stay tight lipped!
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:31 PM   #7335
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Aluminum vs Plastic shock caps. Please discuss. I see that most everyone including the pros use the plastic caps. I found the plastic caps got play in them rather fast and my alum caps have stayed slop free for months.
I had the metal caps but noticed oil pooling around the upper shock bushing and couldn't figure out why. I cleaned and was refilling the shock and when I went to push the shaft up with cap on and the bleed screw still in, noticed oil weeping out the cap inside the shock bushing eye. didn't see a noticeable crack or hole but it was weeping. weirdest thing... i put the plastic back on and have no issues. I use the FT shock mount and bushings.
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