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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-25-2014, 06:00 AM
  #7096  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
What kind of temps are ppl seeing? In 17.5 my car seems to run a little hotter over my Kyosho trying to figure out if it's a weight issue or gearing
could be weight, could be airflow, could just be you on the throttle more being faster?
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:02 AM
  #7097  
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Ruffy, are you using power tools? I've had no issues with any screw heads yet *knock on wood*. Though I haven't fired up the power screwdriver yet.. fingers are worn out with these threads!
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:03 AM
  #7098  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
What kind of temps are ppl seeing? In 17.5 my car seems to run a little hotter over my Kyosho trying to figure out if it's a weight issue or gearing
I don't think the Kyosho is considered light either. I had an RB6 - it wasn't any lighter than the B5M.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:07 AM
  #7099  
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Originally Posted by Stanfsu
Are the B5 bodies interchangable? Can you use the B5R on the B5M?
Assuming that you change the cut.
Bodies are B5 and B5m specific...I'm sure you could cut it to make it fit a little but thats all you. The chassis' are also a little bit different shaped.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:13 AM
  #7100  
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Originally Posted by celt
I don't think the Kyosho is considered light either. I had an RB6 - it wasn't any lighter than the B5M.
That's my issue are track kind of tighter, I'm geared 72/32 and it's getting hot I'm not sure if it's the motor. Yea I tend to have a heavy trigger finger in stock I just know in mm I'm able to really get on it sooner
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:38 AM
  #7101  
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Originally Posted by Ruffy
Our LHS hasn't had any ballstuds to buy yet, so yeah if you can find them buy them longer, add also a metal 1mm washer to the front side to protect the plastic part as well, then a locknut to the backside as mentioned...if you can find longer ballstuds to buy!

I've been looking for ballstuds and waiting for them from my LHS as some of my ballstuds (4 of them) have stripped out the hex on the top in less than 3 or 4 times removing them to make adjustments. They seem to be made of a "soft" alloy, or at least the secondary operation to make the hex may have left them soft in this area.
you can use the TLR ones also.....
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:57 AM
  #7102  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

No need to sand the rings, they already come polished & smooth from the factory.
I disagree with this advice. Diff rings are punched out of sheet metal in the manufacturing process. This process distorts the metal. If you check a new set of AE diff rings you will see that they are not flat. (Easy way to check is by laying them on a piece of glass and seeing if you can rock it back and forth)

I always sand my diff rings. I find it gives me a more consistent diff action and smoother diff as well.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:04 AM
  #7103  
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That's damn good. Now if I could find one. Everyone seems to be out of stock.



Originally Posted by VenturaDC
I put back about 1200mah after a 7min main with no real noticeable drop in punch, I've never run it to the cutoff but have ran some decently long practice sessions with it.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:05 AM
  #7104  
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Originally Posted by Jake S


bodies ready for paint now. just waiting for a t5/t5m now
Design looks familiar
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:40 AM
  #7105  
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Default b4.2 shocks

will the big bores from my b4.2 fit on the b5m .are they the same?
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:53 AM
  #7106  
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Originally Posted by jjohnson555
will the big bores from my b4.2 fit on the b5m .are they the same?
There are some differences in the shocks, but they will physically fit onto your B5M.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:53 AM
  #7107  
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Originally Posted by Jason Snyder
yeah I've been traveling alot.

please PM me any specific requests and I'll start updating them over the next day or two.
I don't do Pm's so here is what I'd like to see (for each vehicle):
  • Screw/Bearing break down
  • BB spring guide
  • "Tips and Tricks" section (e.g. the use of a setscrew and nut on the front axles, which was posted earlier)
  • "Available Hop-ups" section
  • "Body Compatibility" section
  • "B4 parts cross-compatibility" section
  • Turnbuckle how-to (a video maybe?)

I'm sure another will mention something I missed. If you have enough time to put together videos, you have enough time to update the thread. A good example is littlevette's bmax thread. I understand you have a lot of information on facebook's rc10b5 group, it would be beneficial to cross post things here.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:02 AM
  #7108  
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Originally Posted by Matt M.
asc 268....60c...

the pack cost over 100 bucks....so it should have been a high end pack....
I think you mean the #628? If so, it is an older pack originally released in 2010 but continued to be sold until early 2013. When it was originally released it was a high-end pack. But in the end heavily discounted so if you paid over 100 recently I apologize. The #601 65C battery sold during that period was the low IR battery followed by the #309 which is what the stock TC guys use.

Showing how fast battery technology improves, that same #628 battery is now part of the WolfPack range as a sport pack #739.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:16 AM
  #7109  
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Save your breath ring sanders.

I never once needed to sand .
Know of no one that is good that sands as well.

Use what works for you.

I still won't need to sand the rings because they come flat, polished & smooth out of the bag.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:39 AM
  #7110  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
I still won't need to sand the rings because they come flat, polished & smooth out of the bag.
Nope, you are flat out wrong. I've put every ring I've ever installed in a diff on a granite surface plate, (I work in the quality department of an aerospace based machine shop...stuff like this is my bread/butter) and not a single one of them was flat within .005 (some upwards of .020) and Razz is 100% right the rings are punched out with a punch press. One side is rounded because of that (being forced through a die...put the rings on an optical comparator and it's plain as day) The only way to achieve a flat ring is to machine/grind/polish them. If you aren't doing that...your rings are NOT flat. This is due to the way they are manufactured...nothing more, nothing less. Please don't spew your opinions as facts. Same with your claim of flat spotting carbide balls. That's just BS. The balls have a higher rockwell rating than the rings do, the carbide balls will cut through the rings long before the rings flat spot the balls.
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