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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:18 AM   #6991
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@ the track

Helping build a new Centro T4 ...

O yeah ...
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:20 AM   #6992
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@ the track

Helping build a new Centro T4 ...

O yeah ...
I wouldnt mind having one these to convert my t4.2 but only the lucky few drivers can get cause they nvr sold this.
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:24 AM   #6993
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try the b5r rear arms and hubs forward
+1 on this maybe even go to 2 antisqaut
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:32 AM   #6994
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I wouldnt mind having one these to convert my t4.2 but only the lucky few drivers can get cause they nvr sold this.
not sure when it will be available will try to find out.
This one is going to Orlando.
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:40 AM   #6995
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Also installing fresh ball cups just on ride just for a little extra drama...lol
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:44 AM   #6996
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Also installing fresh ball cups just on ride just for a little extra drama...lol
I thought you weren't going to mention ball cups anymore?
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:08 PM   #6997
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Got to check out the new Reedy Black Box ESC tonight.

Looks great ....
Get to test drive one tommorow.
All Cali AE teammates have black box
have had black box for months
Cali AE teammates run black box .25
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:33 PM   #6998
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Hey guys I just ordered a B5M the other day. I just wanted to know what spare parts I should mostly keep in my pit box? (If any....)
Bump
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:36 PM   #6999
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they car is not really weak. I mean, front end parts if you want. maybe an alum rear camber block
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:38 PM   #7000
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they car is not really weak. I mean, front end parts if you want. maybe an alum rear camber block
Ok cool thanks.
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:58 PM   #7001
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Ok, back to the ball cup binding.

I am not sure if it is the main cause, but I inspected one of the ball studs on my RM and 90% of the ones from my MM and each ball stud had a flat spot in the same place.

The Lunsford's are perfectly smooth/round, so this is probably why I am not experiencing the binding with them.

Those that are having binding, I am curious if your ball studs have the same flat spot.
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:27 PM   #7002
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Ok cool thanks.
I'd get the Alu C&D mounts plus pills, just to save time as a tuning option at the track. Maybe it's more of a difference in the RM car but I just wouldn't ever want to mess with rear toe or antisquat with stock stuff at the track since you have to take the car so far apart to get at them. Changing pills is super easy though. Just a little extra weight, but I run mod so don't care.

Pick up some of the optional #4670 set screws for tightening up the hinge pins once broken in.

As others have commented the car is very tough. I've yet to break anything on my b5m.

You will probably want to snatch up a B5R front tower, and F&R arms as another tuning option. Also most are building up shocks with the improved X rings, but that can be added later.

HTH
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:01 PM   #7003
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I'd get the Alu C&D mounts plus pills, just to save time as a tuning option at the track. Maybe it's more of a difference in the RM car but I just wouldn't ever want to mess with rear toe or antisquat with stock stuff at the track since you have to take the car so far apart to get at them. Changing pills is super easy though. Just a little extra weight, but I run mod so don't care.

Pick up some of the optional #4670 set screws for tightening up the hinge pins once broken in.

As others have commented the car is very tough. I've yet to break anything on my b5m.

You will probably want to snatch up a B5R front tower, and F&R arms as another tuning option. Also most are building up shocks with the improved X rings, but that can be added later.

HTH
Thanks for the advice. I have high hope for this buggy. I have and original FT B4 which I've had since 2007 and the only part I've ever broken on it was one of the titanium turnbuckles which only broke due to some young kid who had never raced before driving his short course truck the wrong way in open practice and I ploughed into him and full throttle......
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:47 PM   #7004
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For those having ball cup issues (I realize it's only some of us) here's my trick. I've tried quite a few things but this seems to work best.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:36 PM   #7005
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ive been reading about people using the mm tower with the rear motor front arms does it still have the same amount of up travel ,or does he shocks bottom out before the chassis does?
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