Rybeau40

My biggest issue right now, and why I have yet to purchase this one, is that I don't see many guys running them at the majority of club tracks. Obviously, if your club track is super grip or high bite than they are great, but I would be concerned with the fact that most tracks just aren't high bite indoor or outdoor.

Anyone successfully using the M version on lesser bite, loamy type tracks?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

listen.... "If" your torn or concerned, then the RM is probably for you. We have a guy trying to get one to work out doors. Not loamy, but not high bite. He is faster and more consistent with the RM. He has both btw. Asking people if they are winning with it, its kinda a useless question. I could tell you I tq and win every week, but it means nothing. Who an I racing against? Novice? Low local talent pool. If you are ever in doubt, just get a RM. Easier to drive a car with too much rear traction, than one with too little

Jdemonto

I followed the instructions and the car turns much better. I have a friend that didn't make those changes with the 3mm trailing and he still has some push. I would say it's important. If 3mm doesn't work you could always try 2mm.

Jason

Pittsdriver

iTrader: (11)

According to AE parts come in "everyday" so there is no shortage... I just have to shake my head because I check the AE site, Tower and Amain multiple times a day and there is nothing.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

with backorders, you wont ever see them in stock until back orders are filled. I only ever buy spare when I break. And all of the new cars , always have parts shortage. The TLR22 and RB6 were no different. That is why I keep my old car as a backup if I buy a brand new to the market car. Plus, I like to run them back to back. The slower car normally gets sold.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

She's a lil fatty..... this is with a saddle pack and probably 10 or so extra grams of wire

dougwalter911

iTrader: (34)

will any other wheel hexes work besided the b5 ones.

Wild Cherry

I drive both rides , just doing my best to be helpful , friendly and on topic.

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

You can use the B4.2 rear hexes...I have been running them on mine since I got it and they work perfectly.

dougwalter911

iTrader: (34)

would you happen to know if the offset is close to the same. I dont want to be out of spec for roar rules or ifmar

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

+1 on winning, last night our good guys were winning with B4.2, RB6's, 90% driver and set up.

Parts are going to be hard to find, I got extra arms, towers before I build RM and a few small things, surprised we have not seen hop up parts come to market faster from JC and others. All I have seen are battery straps. Car is crazy durable though have not broken one thing yet so my extra parts are still in box.

My take on C4 compared to BMM, not as solid, little more skittish, felt like it was riding on top of the dirt for me while the B5MM is down in the dirt and I can push harder. My son inherited C4.2 last night and loves it. Still 90% driver.

I like the MM car, being in sport since last year and going from b4.1 RTR to B4.2, C4.2 and now B5MM maybe don't have to build a car for awhile , ran car last night was very predicable, didn't crash a lot just need to push harder and run cleaner lines. I like the 2mm trailing with standard Ackerman tons of steering, fits my driving. I like flat arms for quick ride height tuning but for time being may play with shocks. I did stock set up but used tapered since I had them, but may try 1.6 in rear. Really want to lighten it up a little for stock so that is my mission for now along with new JC body.

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

Anyone looking for spares give SDRC a call, they have some parts on the wall. I picked up a hard front tower and they had 3-4 more of them. No front arms though.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

I'm 1590 with shorty, got FT battery strap and new top shaft, hope to be 1575.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The rm is stupid light and with pucks, guys will probably need to add weight. I am sure the MM can be made very light. people forget that the esc weight. Some esc's are 40 grams heavier. Those all alum v3.1 and the orions and bricks. The tekin gen2 is 40 grams lighter than the orion, and the viper is about 20 grams lighter. Some of the old sxx and smaller lrps, mught be really light too. 12awg wire is heavier than the TQ 13 awg wire. Add in some TI screws and turnbuckles and you "should" be able to get the car into the mid 1500's. Imo, if you get below 1550, it should be fine. Also, the 150 gram 3300 mah shorties might work for guys doing 5 minutes races. Plus, all of the alum bling, only adds more weight. I would only put it where you need it for durability.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

Never had problem with mix and match. Avid wheels are pretty good too. Run Reedy's for a year stick and shorties, charge at 6 amps, store them fully charged after I race and no issues. Good to go when I hit track. My shorty Orion's and protech have puff with same scenario but not stick Orion's or any Reedy's with my bad battery policy.