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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:30 AM   #6706
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
The B5 versions of pucks don't include a gear or rings.
Thank you for the information, that's what I thought when I looked up the kit. I had to verify to be sure I could use my bfast rings.
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:22 PM   #6707
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I have a question about the suggesting gearing in the manual.

I have a Turnigy TrackStar 10.5T/3730kV motor. The manual says to run 24/81 for a 10.5T Reedy motor, but a 21/81 with a 3300 or 3900 kV motor. I believe the Reedy 10.5T motor is a similar kV. Why would their gearing recommendations be contradictory?
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:44 PM   #6708
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I have two questions:
1. How often do you guys change your Schelle slipper pads on the b5m
2. Are getting new front tires done as often as the rears?
Anyone plz?
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Old 08-09-2014, 03:01 PM   #6709
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Finally got mine all wired up
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Old 08-09-2014, 03:03 PM   #6710
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Just sprayed the body quick so I can use it until I get some time to do my nice one.
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Old 08-09-2014, 03:26 PM   #6711
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Any need for the aluminum rear hubs for this car? I haven't seen much in this thread about the plastic ones breaking so is this a fluff part or the extra adjustments worth the cost.
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Old 08-09-2014, 04:40 PM   #6712
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Alloy hubs are stronger then the plastic, also the vertical stud allows more tuning options.
Only difference..
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Old 08-09-2014, 04:53 PM   #6713
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
Anyone plz?
Replace the pads when you see excess wear or decreased performance. My fronts last on average 3 x's longer than a set of rears.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:04 PM   #6714
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Anyone idea's I'm pushing in the corners.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:36 PM   #6715
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Any need for the aluminum rear hubs for this car? I haven't seen much in this thread about the plastic ones breaking so is this a fluff part or the extra adjustments worth the cost.
Just got them bc they look nice, once you tweak the car how you need it to run fast you probably won't be adjusting much. Besides springs, oils and tires...
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:18 AM   #6716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun L. Grider View Post
Anyone idea's I'm pushing in the corners.
From a quick tune guide

Intended goal = More on power steering
Lengthen front camber links
Raise front link on tower side and/or lower link on hub side Add more front caster/front kick up
Increase anti-squat
Reduce Ackermann angle
Move front shocks in on tower/rear shocks out on tower
Notes: As you tune for on power steering you'll likely see less off power steering. Also a car with lots of forward bite is going to progressively have a harder time maintaining on power steering as the rear wheels will fight to push straight forward.
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:32 AM   #6717
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My B5M s dailed !!!!

Never driven better...


Car drives so sweet, now have new inspiration for victory.

Just saying......
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:24 AM   #6718
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My B5M s dailed !!!!

Never driven better...


Car drives so sweet, now have new inspiration for victory.

Just saying......
Great news. What change?
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:08 AM   #6719
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Great news. What change?
We made a big improvement with the front end geometry.

My ride gained a huge improvement with corner stability & improved steering (more) ..

Its awesome .......

smoooth & fast car = good results

Latest tune trick from Tacompton

Posted all about a page back ..
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:10 AM   #6720
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So I know this sounds like a stupid question, should my mod car be able to handle just like my mod car with the same power? Or will the two always feel pretty different?

My stock car is HOOKED up, I almost have that setup on my mod car but not quite yet. If I put the same setup on both cars should the drive similar even though they have such a power difference?

Thanks!
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