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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:43 AM   #6676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive View Post
Buggy: B5M

Good

Radio: Aitronics MT4 (any suggestions for lipo for transmitter?)

Go for the newer MT4-S as someone pointed out before me.

Batteries: Promatch Shorty

Good

Battery Charger/Power Supply: Icharger 206B Ticket Combo

Good choice, but you *may* want to consider a dual port charger like the 308 if you think you might be running more than one class.

ESC: Hobbywing Justock

I'd go for the Stock Spec, myself

Motor: Schurspeed 17.5

Good

Gearing: (any suggestions?)

Try 31-33/69

Steering Servo: Savox SC-1258TG

I like XP servos myself

Tires: Dirt Web - Gold

Good

Spare Parts: (any suggestions?)

Arms, shocktower, caster blocks. You should be able to get most parts at your track if you break.

Spare Fastener Kit: (any suggestions?)
Shock Oil: (any suggestions?)
Setup Tools: (any suggestions?)

I like the Hudy offroad setup system myself. Other's may not, but I find it useful.

Tools/Allens/Wheelnuts: Was thinking MIP (any suggestions?)

MIP or Hudy. IMHO.

Body Paint: Tamiya

Thanks in advance for your help! Let me know if you think I would need anything else. The only thing I really have already is a soldering iron.

Chassis protector.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:27 AM   #6677
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Testing the upside dw front Gull Wings right now..
u should try the shocks upside down for more unsprung weight...
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:03 PM   #6678
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Narth

don't think so , the gulls got shot down and were moving on .lol

Get to use today after work for me.
The change will lower the front shocks a little though.
But think it will loose low speed steering.

will let everyone know how it worked.

Myself am quite happy with the B5r arm & tower.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:20 PM   #6679
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What experience have you had that makes you think it wont work? Glitching? Brown outs? My brother has this servo in a 22 with a Spektrum radio (old DX3R) and zero problems. I preffer the XP Digital servos myself.
a guy at the track bought one. after he installed it, the steering rack came in contact with the servo case
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Old 08-07-2014, 01:15 PM   #6680
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That's odd. I built a B5R just for nights when we run the track wet, the first night of every new layout.....tonight actually! Anyway, I had a Savox 1258 laying around, so I used it, and its fine. No rubbing, no glitching, no brown out. I'm running a D3.5 17.5 & Orion R10 speedo.
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:28 PM   #6681
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Chalk me up to someone who does not like it light. I took both of my cars to LRH tonight. Added the Pucks system, milled motor plate, cut gears, all plastic suspension mounts, borrowed a set of broken in tires to try, and the thing still would go tail happy on me. Took my Shurr Speed out and put it in the mod car with all of the aluminum stuff in it was stuck to the track. Did not notice any appreciable speed decrease, and motor only came off 5 degrees warner which topped off at between 145-150 depending on run time. I wont be putting all of the stock stuff back in, but will definitely be running the stock top shaft instead of aluminum, will throw the aluminum hubs back in there, getting rid of the cut gears as well. I like the car better a bit butt heavy.
I know some guys are adding back weight in the rear with the brass and alum suspension holders. lower rotating is nice for "kick", then add the weight back down low for a better CG also.
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:42 PM   #6682
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Originally Posted by narth327 View Post
u should try the shocks upside down for more unsprung weight...
I did that 25+ years ago with my first car. JRX2 putting RC10 shocks on it.
Of course i did it by mistake. lol
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:33 PM   #6683
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I know some guys are adding back weight in the rear with the brass and alum suspension holders. lower rotating is nice for "kick", then add the weight back down low for a better CG also.
YeH. It was super tail happy yesterday. Mod car with the stock stuff plus the aluminum pieces were much better for LRH layout. The B5R would have been even better. New layout has a bunch of odd camber 180 degree turns and really does not have enough flow for carrying the corner speed necessary for mid motor designs to really shine. A guy with a rear motor 22 2.0 was tearing it up.
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:08 PM   #6684
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Broke a rear arm tonight, thought it was odd. wasn't even a big spill, must have had a crack in it from my last run.

Anywho, timing was right as I was toying with the idea of putting the RM arms on it, so I did that, easy enough. Im not good enough to know if I actually notice a difference but the placebo effect was great!!
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:47 PM   #6685
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u should try the shocks upside down for more unsprung weight...
I actually tried that on a touring car a year or two ago... Actually helped improve corner speed!
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:56 PM   #6686
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Looking for someone that has a b5m chassis already made up in solid works that can send it to me please. Thanks!
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:29 AM   #6687
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Jcopeland1, have you tried to tune rather than ad weight? I would try to adjust anti squat. Less is more on a MM car. I think you'd be better off trying to find traction mechanically rather than throwing weight on.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:44 AM   #6688
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I was thinking about going from 3-2 to 3-1. I fould like more forward drive coming out of the corners. I am hoping the car will square up better. going to try the .5 inserts also. The 3-1 will take away some of the plushness in landings, so unsure if I want to do that.
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:16 AM   #6689
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so unsure if I want to do that.
You will never know for yourself until you try it
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:33 AM   #6690
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You will never know for yourself until you try it
yeah. I just hate taking off the chassis protector, lol. This is when I wish I had the alum mount with inserts
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