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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:40 PM   #6391
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Originally Posted by gearit View Post
I have a b5m running on a clay indoor track that has a little push going into corners and does not have the same low end punch as the other 17.5's. I was told to lighten up the tranny with an aluminum top shaft, mip puc system, nova slipper, bfast diff and b5 front a arms and shock tower. Any suggestions or advise if I'm going in the right direction or additional mods. Thanks.
Some people on here aren't too kind. Any who, if you switch to flat front arms and tower it will only make it push more. I don't know how the traction is at your track but put a small foam closest to the motor to move battery forward a lil. Make sure your running the same brand tires front and rear and same compound
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:52 AM   #6392
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Where did you get the thin lead?

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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
If you try what we are doing ?

Your ride will be a lot smoother and consistent in the corner.

More grip too...

BTW

my ride is at 59.6 oz ,1672

Lighter is not necessarily better...

More weight under the battery will help you more then lighter parts every where else on the car ..

Huge difference...a game changer in my book
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:25 AM   #6393
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Are you guys running hubs forward with rm arms on the mid motor?
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:34 AM   #6394
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Are you guys running hubs forward with rm arms on the mid motor?
I am yes.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:38 AM   #6395
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
Some people on here aren't too kind. Any who, if you switch to flat front arms and tower it will only make it push more. I don't know how the traction is at your track but put a small foam closest to the motor to move battery forward a lil. Make sure your running the same brand tires front and rear and same compound
I dont have push, but yeah. I tried 17.5 at stock weight and it lacked some kick for sure. If your going to run 17.5, you might want to drop some rotating mass. Also, taking weight out of the rear should add steering. It did in my RM car anyway.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:10 AM   #6396
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Are you guys running hubs forward with rm arms on the mid motor?
Start in the middle, rear motor
arm is already more forward then mid arm.

Jason, we had lots of the stuff around handy at the track.
Think you can purchase some at a roofing supply outlet.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:23 AM   #6397
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PLEASE BE ADVISED BAD DRIVING TO FOLLOW. lol I decided to run both my MM and RM cars in mod tonight. Both cars gave me issues, but the issues were different. I ran the MM in heats 1 and 2, then switched to my RM car in the main. I used the same motor and same tires. The RM car pushed but was easier to drive and gave me a higher consistence and was .75 seconds faster per lap for a top 10 lap average. The top 5 averages were about the same. My hot lap came from the B5M, but is was a hand full to drive. Tons of steering and very twitchy. A poorly adjusted slipper in my RM car, made anything that needed instant power a fail. You will see me struggling with the step on step off and the short run up double on the right. I am still unsure which car I like the best. The MM is fun to drive and it is very aggressive and corners on a dime, but feel very unstable on jumps. Anyway, enjoy the poor videos of my poor driving.

BTW. I was runnign with Spencer Rivkin, Tanner Denny and Tommy Hinz. So of the 5 drivers in mod, 3 are factory team drivers....lol. Also, I may have punted them at one time or another...oops my bad.
A Main Pink B5 ream motor car
http://youtu.be/sreCdc5yjBQ

Qual 2 green/purple B5M... Also, I was a lap slower than my first qual with the MM car. The rear was loose.
http://youtu.be/XcfymT7wBto
And for the record, I never claimed to be a factory driver, lol. But we had a race recently with 68 entries in 17.5, and I finished like 32nd (while fighting my car). Normally I can finish in the top 15 when we have 35 guys entered on a club night. I was struggling with both cars last night. The clay at SRS is giving me fits. I either have way too much traction or not enough. I was talking to someone last night and they suggested clay slicks. They said, they just felt more consistent on the track than M4. Probably because the M4 might fold over in the corners. Also, I just wanted to show the difference of MM and RM on the same track and same layout for those trying to decide between the RM and MM cars. The RM car is still by far the easiest of the two to drive. But, if you want steering and lots of it, imo the MM is the way to go. Also, my RM buggy was 1525 without pucks and i had 20g of chassis tape on the car. My RM car is about 70 grams lighter than the MM car. If i had a shorty servo and pucks in my RM car, I would be under weight in a heart beat. Normally, when I am struggling with the MM, I throw the RM car down and its great...provided my slipper is not way off. I was slipping for a good 5 feet, lol. That is why I was having issues with jumps. My plan is to get the MM car where I want it, because it "feels" like it could be a much better car.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:00 AM   #6398
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hey wildcat.... here is what the springs and oils do... pistons provide the pack by controlling the amount of oil going threw the holes.. oil is your viscosity to determine how fast the different wts go threw the pistons and springs control the pressure to the arms and wheels from contact points.... thus a softer spring provides less pressure or transfer to the car.. you can alter that pressure slightly by changing positions to where the shock connects... standing it more upright will change leverage points and quicken the feel, laying it down more will soften it transferring that energy slower but also offer a more progressive feel.. think of the arms of the car as a prybar.. its easy to move when you have the more of the prybar out to hold then it is having what your trying to move right where your holding.. the shock position on arm is the same way.. inside hole moves easier.. outside harder.

so softer springs will transfer the energy a little slower and the thicker oil will slow the rotation just a bit too.

sorry for my description on stuff...lol still waking up...
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:10 AM   #6399
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I get it. I plan to play with that next time out. Also, we race indoors, so the temp is probably around 78 deg. I think you asked about temps. I made a TON of changes last week before last night racing. Basically, I wanted to "reset" the car and try some new stuff. I was not liking the 1.4's up front. They were tapered. I tried light springs before with the 1.4f and 1.6 rear. I went green/green, but it was too much weight shift. It was like driving a slash, lol. Last night was my first time with the 1.6's f/r. I started with 32.5/30 oils, but it didnt have enough pack. So I went up to 35/32.5. The pack felt much better. And yeah, a stiffer car will have more aggressive response. I am going to a lower bite track wednesday night and I plan to drop the springs down in stiffness. I think you said the longer links slowed down the car also. It was explained to me that "long is lazy" as a way to remember it.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:20 AM   #6400
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hi.. ya the 1.4 pistons offer quicker transfer... so I bet it rotated on a dime. and yes on the links.. it gives a little more traction and part of the reason is what I said before.. longer is lazier but that's not a bad thing when your car is super aggressive. its like giving meds to a kid a ADD... lol it calms it down. finding that balance to what you like may take a few changes in setup but once you find it you will be amazed how the car can work.
also tires play a whole role.. ask tyler what he runs and what he does to the tires.. hes a good kid and will help for sure.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:52 AM   #6401
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surprised no one's mentioned anything about the diff. Just my opinion, it's displaying the characteristics of a diff that's not tight enough. But it's really hard to tell from video, unless you're actually there it's hard to give advice.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:56 AM   #6402
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surprised no one's mentioned anything about the diff. Just my opinion, it's displaying the characteristics of a diff that's not tight enough. But it's really hard to tell from video, unless you're actually there it's hard to give advice.
the MM diff is pretty tight. If I go much tighter, the spring will be full collapsed. This was as tight as I could get it without making it gritty. My 13.5 was able to stand the car up from a stand still and not bark the diff, lol. The RM car has a looser diff. But, I will ask someone else to look at my diff settings. Always good to get another pair of eyes.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:12 AM   #6403
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Has anyone tried this mod on there B5M yet racing Modified? Jst curious on everyones opinion.

As I was thinking about trying this?
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:15 AM   #6404
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A few people have tried it. I talked to a few people and they said it made the car harder to drive. To aggressive and responsive. I did the battery sideways and did inline electronics. I already have plenty of steering and dont want more, lol
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:18 AM   #6405
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Has anyone tried this mod on there B5M yet racing Modified? Jst curious on everyones opinion.

As I was thinking about trying this?
Great idea...
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