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Old 07-22-2014, 11:18 AM   #6211
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Looking for more steering to get rid of a push. Asked a few people at my track suggested me shorten my link on my shock tower, but feel that isn't the answer because any setup I look at hasn't done this.

So what are my options?

Was considering going to 1.4x3 but my friend still has those.
I run my diff kinda tight if I loosened it would I gain more steering? (does the slipper play a role?)

Tried going only sauce up front and that just made the car twitchy.

Here is my setup that I am currently at: http://imgur.com/eNEWwAV

What are my other options you guys would suggest?
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:21 AM   #6212
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on or off power push?

I ran 1.4 pistons in the front, with 37.5, Green springs and long links and I had bloat loads of steering. I was also running the +3 spindles inserts with 2mm on the ackerman and spindles forward.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:23 AM   #6213
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Would "push" be the same thing as understeer?
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:26 AM   #6214
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Looking for more steering to get rid of a push. Asked a few people at my track suggested me shorten my link on my shock tower, but feel that isn't the answer because any setup I look at hasn't done this.

So what are my options?

Was considering going to 1.4x3 but my friend still has those.
I run my diff kinda tight if I loosened it would I gain more steering? (does the slipper play a role?)

Tried going only sauce up front and that just made the car twitchy.

Here is my setup that I am currently at: http://imgur.com/eNEWwAV

What are my other options you guys would suggest?
try green springs up front with 32.5 oil. or 1.4 pistons with 37.5.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:26 AM   #6215
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Would "push" be the same thing as understeer?
yes
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:38 PM   #6216
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Hey guys,

Just trying to get a good idea as to which ESC to run in the stock class on my B5m. I run Trinity D4 motors. I've heard a lot about Hobbywing. I have the Just Stock ESC but it doesn't seem to produce the power I need. I so have a Tekin RS1. Would that work well? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:42 PM   #6217
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so, in the blinky class, the "power" should be the same from the esc. make sure your punch is all the way up. The hobbywings are very good and I doubt the tekin with be "faster". The ONLY esc that I think "might" be faster are the orion r10 pros. With the vipers, you can play with the PWM and change the power vs smoothness feel. They are a bit more tunable than most esc's.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:54 PM   #6218
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so, in the blinky class, the "power" should be the same from the esc. make sure your punch is all the way up. The hobbywings are very good and I doubt the tekin with be "faster". The ONLY esc that I think "might" be faster are the orion r10 pros. With the vipers, you can play with the PWM and change the power vs smoothness feel. They are a bit more tunable than most esc's.
I turned the punch up all the way, and I have also played around with various gears. Wouldn't there be a difference between a 60amp esc and a 120amp esc?
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:58 PM   #6219
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I turned the punch up all the way, and I have also played around with various gears. Wouldn't there be a difference between a 60amp esc and a 120amp esc?
you will feel no difference in the stock blinky 17.5 class.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:01 PM   #6220
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I turned the punch up all the way, and I have also played around with various gears. Wouldn't there be a difference between a 60amp esc and a 120amp esc?
There really wouldn't be a performance benefit from a 60 amp esc to a 120 amp unit in a 17.5 class. You are not reaching the peak amp draw with a 17.5 motor setup. If the esc was running really hot or going into thermal protection then yes you may see better performance from a higher amp esc. The only real detail that increases or decreases performance in an esc is the resistance and most of them on the market have such low resistance that it is a very small difference.

I have ran the Just Stock in 2wd Buggy with an 8.5 turn motor with no issues as well as 17.5 and 13.5 TC on carpet. It is a work horse for the money.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:01 PM   #6221
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I turned the punch up all the way, and I have also played around with various gears. Wouldn't there be a difference between a 60amp esc and a 120amp esc?
well....some think there is. Some believe you get more "head room". But, I dont think that has been proven on the track. Things like lower internal resistance would/could effect it. But then, a poor soldering job or overly long wire could nullify those differences. On paper in a perfect work, the answer is maybe. In reality on the track, probably not. Tekin have a different feel than the hw, but I doubt its "faster". if you own the tekin RS, try it. I think they feel like on/off switches, but you might like it. Not like it will cost you anything to try it. But the orion r10 pro with SS firmware definetly had more kick for me. maybe because it was 160amp? maybe the software has a flaw and its boosted (rumors)? But, there was a jump I could not clear with another brand. When I went o the orion with SS firmware, I could clear it all race long. Will the RS do the same for you? Try it an see.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:04 PM   #6222
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I really appreciate all of the info.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:08 PM   #6223
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
There really wouldn't be a performance benefit from a 60 amp esc to a 120 amp unit in a 17.5 class. You are not reaching the peak amp draw with a 17.5 motor setup. If the esc was running really hot or going into thermal protection then yes you may see better performance from a higher amp esc. The only real detail that increases or decreases performance in an esc is the resistance and most of them on the market have such low resistance that it is a very small difference.

I have ran the Just Stock in 2wd Buggy with an 8.5 turn motor with no issues as well as 17.5 and 13.5 TC on carpet. It is a work horse for the money.
+1 I was a HW hater when I returned to the hobby, but their 1/10 race line is pretty good. The jury is out on the sct and 1/8th stuff. But the justock and v2.1/3.1 stuff is great. The v2.1 stuff was beastly. That was the platforn that the orions were based off.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:30 PM   #6224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
well....some think there is. Some believe you get more "head room". But, I dont think that has been proven on the track. Things like lower internal resistance would/could effect it. But then, a poor soldering job or overly long wire could nullify those differences. On paper in a perfect work, the answer is maybe. In reality on the track, probably not. Tekin have a different feel than the hw, but I doubt its "faster". if you own the tekin RS, try it. I think they feel like on/off switches, but you might like it. Not like it will cost you anything to try it. But the orion r10 pro with SS firmware definetly had more kick for me. maybe because it was 160amp? maybe the software has a flaw and its boosted (rumors)? But, there was a jump I could not clear with another brand. When I went o the orion with SS firmware, I could clear it all race long. Will the RS do the same for you? Try it an see.
By SS do you mean the 1.68 software?
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:59 PM   #6225
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Any idea what the amp draw would be on a boosted 17.5 in a 2wd buggy?
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