R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Like Tree9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-21-2014, 04:00 PM   #6181
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 4,756
Trader Rating: 483 (100%+)
Default

After reading more I understand some of everybodys problems. I have not tried to run the 3500 pack for 10 minutes. Our mains are 7. Moving on, how do you spend a $1000 on a stock buggy? All of my cars are identical. Although I haven't actually put all my mods on, I have less than $150 in absolutely useless extra stuff including Ti front axles and turnbuckles which I guess I'll put on but have decided that I don't need. If you run the 3500 lipo then 1500 grams should be easy to hit. I'm going to find my scale and buy cut gears and pucks and see how close I can get. My only concern is that all the aluminum stuff is actually going to add weight....last, slipper eliminator. That's a big weight savings in more ways than one. I'm still not sure why everybody doesn't run one when they are stock. Its gotta be 3-5 times the weight savings of a top shaft and the gearing options are much better because there is a very wide variety of spurs that you can use.
__________________
Now that I've discovered the ignore list I plan to use it.....14 and counting!
QDRHRSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 04:12 PM   #6182
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,938
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc23 View Post
Im not arguing that some might find RM easier or better to drive than a MM, im just arguing the fact that MM is some monstrous money pit that RM isnt

17.5 is a money pit in general and the position of the motor isnt the cause of the money pit nor does the speed of the motor change where the position of the motor works best for each individual person
All my motors seem to work better in RM. I can run with the best of them in MM but in RM I set the tone for motor speed. Don't don't if its the extra gear or what that causes unwanted drag.
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 04:55 PM   #6183
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 581
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
After reading more I understand some of everybodys problems. I have not tried to run the 3500 pack for 10 minutes. Our mains are 7. Moving on, how do you spend a $1000 on a stock buggy? All of my cars are identical. Although I haven't actually put all my mods on, I have less than $150 in absolutely useless extra stuff including Ti front axles and turnbuckles which I guess I'll put on but have decided that I don't need. If you run the 3500 lipo then 1500 grams should be easy to hit. I'm going to find my scale and buy cut gears and pucks and see how close I can get. My only concern is that all the aluminum stuff is actually going to add weight....last, slipper eliminator. That's a big weight savings in more ways than one. I'm still not sure why everybody doesn't run one when they are stock. Its gotta be 3-5 times the weight savings of a top shaft and the gearing options are much better because there is a very wide variety of spurs that you can use.
Pucks,slipper eliminator, ti turnbuckles, and alum top shaft all reduced weight of my b5m. Down to 1552 with smc3500 on the way. Should be right below 1500g with new battery. Also running aka typos on evo wheels which are lighter than other wheel/tire combos. FYI, ygpm qdrshsd
Micah123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 05:50 PM   #6184
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 22
Default

okay, I have a B5m and i'm running 8.5t motor with a 22t pinion and aka evo typos all around in clay compound and also shorty packs. It has the stock setup except I lengthened the rear turnbuckles and the rear hubs all the way back. The car it really twitchy and the rear end tends to break loose exiting turns mostly on power. Is there any tips to improve this and also what do you guys think about the gearing? I run mainly at ierc.
__________________
They say R/C is 80% wrenching and 20% driving. So why mention your car, motor, controller, and ect. and not your TOOL(s) of choice!!!!!!
ment2bzer0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 06:19 PM   #6185
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,758
Trader Rating: 59 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ment2bzer0 View Post
okay, I have a B5m and i'm running 8.5t motor with a 22t pinion and aka evo typos all around in clay compound and also shorty packs. It has the stock setup except I lengthened the rear turnbuckles and the rear hubs all the way back. The car it really twitchy and the rear end tends to break loose exiting turns mostly on power. Is there any tips to improve this and also what do you guys think about the gearing? I run mainly at ierc.
Move the hubs forward.. more anti squat.. move battery back


Try one thing at a time.
rc23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 06:35 PM   #6186
Tech Regular
 
Rybeau40's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 289
Default

With an mm car you want less anti-squat no?
__________________
Kyosho Lazer ZX-6R 10.1 Orion pro, Spektrum 6040
Team Associated B5M, Hitec servo Mod class, 10.0 Orion
Futaba 4PLS
Support your LHS.
Sponsored by my wife who gives me no grief
Rybeau40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 07:04 PM   #6187
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 4,756
Trader Rating: 483 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ment2bzer0 View Post
okay, I have a B5m and i'm running 8.5t motor with a 22t pinion and aka evo typos all around in clay compound and also shorty packs. It has the stock setup except I lengthened the rear turnbuckles and the rear hubs all the way back. The car it really twitchy and the rear end tends to break loose exiting turns mostly on power. Is there any tips to improve this and also what do you guys think about the gearing? I run mainly at ierc.
You're going to need to be more specific about the setup stuff. Oil, springs, ride height etc...if you are running an 8.5 I don't think weight is an issue. Why not run a square pack? As far as gearing goes look at the back of your manual......its got good baselines in it. Once you get it close you can tune the gearing by temperature. Extending the rear links isn't a bad idea but what about washers under the rear ballstuds etc? Same for the front end. Associated set up sheets on their website are usually pretty good. I'd start there for set up tips. I agree with one of the other posters about less anti squat. Some guys go 0 to negative. One of the benefits of MM is that the natural rotation of the drivetrain produces downforce and the faster you turn the motor, the greater the downward and forward inertia you create....
__________________
Now that I've discovered the ignore list I plan to use it.....14 and counting!
QDRHRSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 07:22 PM   #6188
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 22
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
You're going to need to be more specific about the setup stuff. Oil, springs, ride height etc...if you are running an 8.5 I don't think weight is an issue. Why not run a square pack? As far as gearing goes look at the back of your manual......its got good baselines in it. Once you get it close you can tune the gearing by temperature. Extending the rear links isn't a bad idea but what about washers under the rear ballstuds etc? Same for the front end. Associated set up sheets on their website are usually pretty good. I'd start there for set up tips. I agree with one of the other posters about less anti squat. Some guys go 0 to negative. One of the benefits of MM is that the natural rotation of the drivetrain produces downforce and the faster you turn the motor, the greater the downward and forward inertia you create....
Like I had stated, stock setup from the box besides the two things, which both seemed to help. I already got the gearing but i kinda just wanted a statement on what others think and what others are running. Trust me I read the manual a lot and I study setup sheets from both associated and petit. As for the shorties, it was a toss up if i was going to run any stock classes but didn't want to deal with the lightweight b.s. and all that, plus mod is just more fun to me. I just figure that there are always the "popular" setup changes. I am just use to the TLR cars and switched it up this past weekend after not being in it for about a year. Just looking to be pointed in the right direction and get some solid input. THanks.
__________________
They say R/C is 80% wrenching and 20% driving. So why mention your car, motor, controller, and ect. and not your TOOL(s) of choice!!!!!!
ment2bzer0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 07:27 PM   #6189
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 22
Default

Oh, I also ran a saddle pack setup. It felt more planted but didn't help a whole lot exiting corners. So i might invest in a couple square packs in the future but isn't priority. I also noticed that it is a toss up between "square" packs and "shorties" on the Team drivers setups.
__________________
They say R/C is 80% wrenching and 20% driving. So why mention your car, motor, controller, and ect. and not your TOOL(s) of choice!!!!!!
ment2bzer0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 07:55 PM   #6190
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,932
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ment2bzer0 View Post
Oh, I also ran a saddle pack setup. It felt more planted but didn't help a whole lot exiting corners. So i might invest in a couple square packs in the future but isn't priority. I also noticed that it is a toss up between "square" packs and "shorties" on the Team drivers setups.
I would get the rm arms and the rm front tower. I built mine that way and I can wheelie out of corners it there is at least medium traction. Its pretty much the standard tjing most people use. And they do so because its good. I like the 3x1.4 pistons in the front with 37.5 and 1.6s in the rear with 32.5. I also only run 1 limiter front and rear with grey springs up front. I cant use a front tire with too much bite or the car will swap ends off power going into a turn. I had to balance my feont and rear traction to my liking.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 08:09 PM   #6191
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,758
Trader Rating: 59 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
With an mm car you want less anti-squat no?

Not if you need it to go straighter out of the turn. Alot of fast guys run 2 degrees of antiquated in certain conditions.
rc23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 08:14 PM   #6192
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,932
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc23 View Post
Not if you need it to go straighter out of the turn. Alot of fast guys run 2 degrees of antiquated in certain conditions.
I am not fast, but I run 3/2 on mine. I have plenty of forward bite coming out. I changed a boat load of things tonight. Just because I wanted to see how they feel next time. I was running long links in the front, but switched to the middle sized link. I also went full forward on my rear hubs. Just to see how much it would effect the car. I am still trying to learn the mm car and what I like. I am also trying to 1.6 pistons in the front, to see if the car dumps over less.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 08:20 PM   #6193
Tech Elite
 
vito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: roseburg or
Posts: 3,928
Default

hey wc got the new updated wing mount an am all running now off to run laps soon
__________________
the happy racer
drango 410 v 4
am dyslexic
b5 mid motor
vito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 09:04 PM   #6194
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 4,756
Trader Rating: 483 (100%+)
Default

I dunno. If you've studied all the setups and your car is almost out of the box in terms of set up then my prognisis is that you did something wrong.....put something in backwards, made something too tight, something is bent....etc. I have 2 and they were ok out of the box. You could try to shorten the front camber links but many people go to the B5 tower and arms which will slightly raise your roll center and take out some steering. I'm still running the gullwing arms, 1.6 pistons and green springs, 35/32.5 oil....you can try to go up on oil and springs. Its possible that with that much motor (and speed) you are just too soft. I wouldn't know I occasionally run a 13.5 for fun but pretty much run a 17.5 in everything. On our track a factory sponsored driver is a tenth or two faster mod. The rest of us are faster and more consistent with less motor. FYI I am a mid to upper pack sportsman, I was really happy to finish 2nd in stock sportsman buggy on Sunday.
__________________
Now that I've discovered the ignore list I plan to use it.....14 and counting!
QDRHRSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 09:19 PM   #6195
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vito View Post
hey wc got the new updated wing mount an am all running now off to run laps soon
finally !!!

Have a good time practicing Vito

Sup ? Ment2 ...

Suggest

rear hub middle of arm
3/0 rear toe & squat
Green rear spring

Beware of using extra squat, only makes the car more difficult to drive into the turns...

Use O my advise

__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 07-21-2014 at 09:34 PM.
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:03 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net