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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:07 PM   #6121
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I'm not sure how you can tell this.. I have trouble just reading and understanding all the broken punctuation and syntax. Many times I just give up trying to understand what he is typing.
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:28 PM   #6122
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:48 PM   #6123
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I like how the B5/M has beefy ballends but the binding was really bugging me. I polished the balls prior to the build and I put one race weekend on them but as you can see they still bind. Somebody mentioned a ballcap reamer for Helicopters so I checked around and got a set. The issue is the AE stud is 5.5mm and the closest reamer was 5.6mm. I decided to try it anyway, and after reaming the camber links are now bind free. They still feel tight but time will tell if they will stay on as well as the stock cups.


Reamed cups on left, un-reamed cups (stuck) on right.


AE ball stud measures 5.5mm


Reamer measures 5.64mm


Reamers.
You want the reamer to be slightly bigger than the stud also you can't measure the ID of the ball cup. .2 diff is so small is perfect. Just ordered my set already have a new set of cups
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:54 PM   #6124
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You want the reamer to be slightly bigger than the stud also you can't measure the ID of the ball cup. .2 diff is so small is perfect. Just ordered my set already have a new set of cups
I just bought the Lunsford ball stud kit. It didn't save much weight - maybe 5 grams. But the links were WAY smoother than stock. I didn't measure it but I suspect the Lunsford balls are slighter smaller. All in all - totally not worth $70
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:00 PM   #6125
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So I got my car down to 1470 grams, the car jumps and lands better but I kind of don't like how it handles at this weight - not as much corner speed and it seems like I'm sliding at the apex. Also worse acceleration which surprised me. I think I'm not getting enough bite out of my rear tires.

What should I do?

If I stay light I'm thinking of

Switching from white to green springs
Lighter oil (32,30 down to 30 27)
Using roll center to get the car to roll more
Changing ride height - don't know if I should go up or down.

Or I might just add weight in the battery compartment.

Any advice?
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:34 PM   #6126
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So I got my car down to 1470 grams, the car jumps and lands better but I kind of don't like how it handles at this weight - not as much corner speed and it seems like I'm sliding at the apex. Also worse acceleration which surprised me. I think I'm not getting enough bite out of my rear tires.

What should I do?

If I stay light I'm thinking of

Switching from white to green springs
Lighter oil (32,30 down to 30 27)
Using roll center to get the car to roll more
Changing ride height - don't know if I should go up or down.

Or I might just add weight in the battery compartment.

Any advice?
try the brass front suspension holder. it should add weight where you want it. are you using the RM arms and hubs shimmed forward?
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:05 PM   #6127
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Is it fast ?
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:07 PM   #6128
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Is it fast ?
I don't know I get it back Monday and track test
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:07 PM   #6129
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try the brass front suspension holder. it should add weight where you want it. are you using the RM arms and hubs shimmed forward?
Really? I would think the front end should be as light as possible. I was gonna add weight under the battery pad - thinking I would want to keep the weight as centralized as possible to help the car rotate quicker. I'll try it though.

I have b5 front arms and tower installed and I like them

I have the b5 rear arms but haven't tried them yet. Do I also need the b5 rear hubs or are mine ok?

I think on my next testing day I'll start by trying the b5 rear arms, then I'll try the green springs. If I don't like the green spring I'll go back to white and start adding weight to different places
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:21 PM   #6130
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Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
So I got my car down to 1470 grams, the car jumps and lands better but I kind of don't like how it handles at this weight - not as much corner speed and it seems like I'm sliding at the apex. Also worse acceleration which surprised me. I think I'm not getting enough bite out of my rear tires.

What should I do?

If I stay light I'm thinking of

Switching from white to green springs
Lighter oil (32,30 down to 30 27)
Using roll center to get the car to roll more
Changing ride height - don't know if I should go up or down.

Or I might just add weight in the battery compartment.

Any advice?
You spent the time and $ to drop about 15% of the weight from the car so why add it back before you try making it work at the lighter weight? You're going to have less weight transfer because most or all of the weight was taken off above the chassis. If it were me I would go to green springs and lighter oil. Fine tune the camber links from there.
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:40 PM   #6131
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You spent the time and $ to drop about 15% of the weight from the car so why add it back before you try making it work at the lighter weight? You're going to have less weight transfer because most or all of the weight was taken off above the chassis. If it were me I would go to green springs and lighter oil. Fine tune the camber links from there.
Exactly right. In onroad we make our stock class cars as light as possible too. U need to adjust ur suspension now since its lighter. Id say lighter oil /springs n adjust slipper per track conditions. Looser track equals looser slipper. High traction equals tighter slipper. Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:44 PM   #6132
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Really? I would think the front end should be as light as possible. I was gonna add weight under the battery pad - thinking I would want to keep the weight as centralized as possible to help the car rotate quicker. I'll try it though.

I have b5 front arms and tower installed and I like them

I have the b5 rear arms but haven't tried them yet. Do I also need the b5 rear hubs or are mine ok?

I think on my next testing day I'll start by trying the b5 rear arms, then I'll try the green springs. If I don't like the green spring I'll go back to white and start adding weight to different places
sorry not the front bulkhead of pin brace, the front brass REAR suspension holder. This would add the weight over the rear axles more so. green springs are a good choice. the hubs are the same, yours are fine. the arms should drop right in.
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:49 PM   #6133
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
You want the reamer to be slightly bigger than the stud also you can't measure the ID of the ball cup. .2 diff is so small is perfect. Just ordered my set already have a new set of cups
Roger that, they are so smooth now. Running the stock binding cups I almost didn't need the shocks., lol.
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Old 07-19-2014, 06:07 PM   #6134
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Im with Wildcat on this one (even being totally new to this game) - I busted a turnbuckle and bought shorted ti rods and new cups and there is no way I pushed them through too hard and they bind like hell. While I don't think it affects the suspension in any way they definitely are sticky. This was on a new kit as well as replacement cups fresh off the shelves. They are too tight, and I ordered a reamer to see how that goes.
Hcopp, it does matter. A binding cup, especially as bad as mine were binding, adds resistance and acts like thicker oil or a heavier spring, except it very inconsistent. I had a cup go bad on my Tekno sct410 and I thought my shock shaft was bent because the handling suddenly got so bad. I removed the shock and I have habit of lifting and dropping the arms, which should fall free. This time they didn't so I knew right away I had a bend hinge pin or a bad cup. Turned out the cup was frozen on the ball stud because of some dirt. And it is even more important on the B5m because it is mush lighter than a SC truck.
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:04 PM   #6135
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
sorry not the front bulkhead of pin brace, the front brass REAR suspension holder. This would add the weight over the rear axles more so. green springs are a good choice. the hubs are the same, yours are fine. the arms should drop right in.
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Exactly right. In onroad we make our stock class cars as light as possible too. U need to adjust ur suspension now since its lighter. Id say lighter oil /springs n adjust slipper per track conditions. Looser track equals looser slipper. High traction equals tighter slipper. Good luck and keep us posted!
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You spent the time and $ to drop about 15% of the weight from the car so why add it back before you try making it work at the lighter weight? You're going to have less weight transfer because most or all of the weight was taken off above the chassis. If it were me I would go to green springs and lighter oil. Fine tune the camber links from there.

Thanks guys. I agree. Lighter should always be faster. I race stock onroad also and have played this lightweight game before and I've found that light cars can work, but it's a must that the suspension work correctly - no binding. Light cars are especially sensitive to binding shocks/ball cups/ hinge pins.

I'll see what I can do with the shocks and roll centers and report back next week.
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