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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-13-2014, 04:46 AM
  #6061  
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Has anyone put the 2.5 degree toe block on to help with the on power push and wheelies and I'm thinking it should help with off power also
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:50 AM
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Thanks roundguy
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:56 AM
  #6063  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Just a question..How many stock racers, posting in here, need all this light weight stuff to keep up? All that money spent just so you can go as fast as the next guy. Why? because he's spending all that money to go that little bit faster. You all run a FULL main without a mistake? I can see doing it if you can make the A or B main in Stock at the Nats, but other than that I just don't get it

And that's all I'm saying, I just don't get spending all the money and worrying about this weight and that weight when it's all washed away with one pipe hit or marshal.

I raced stock/spec classes for years. mainly because it was all we had. Now, I would never do it.
I think the idea is to go faster than the next guy.

Seriously though, I think stock buggy fun is about getting as much out of the motor as possible and then driving it the fastest way possible. In mod you can use power to fix mistakes or bad lines. Didnt set up for that jump right? thats ok, throttle it. In stock, you are having to roll that jump.

Mod is a big jump in most places too as far as skill
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:12 AM
  #6064  
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Originally Posted by D.Martijn
So, anyone that drove this can on an outdoor track?

I'm still not sure what to buy, a B5 or a B5M..
Almost all the tracks in my country are astro or carpet. only my local track is hardpacked dirt (with a thin layer of dust in the summer) + there are some parts that are carpet/astro.

Any suggestions wich car would be the best?
Anyone??
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:15 AM
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Hi,

does anyone know the dimensions of the top shaft spacer? The top shaft has too much back and forth play in the gear box, to the point where the entire slipper system moves back and forth along with the top shaft. The correct 6x12x4 bearings are correct (measured them, too). The only thing I can guess as to what's happening is the top shaft is too short, but I can't find any dimensions on it. Any help?

thanks in advance,
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:19 AM
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Just add in a thin shim or two...I dont really think its the spacer (or it could be a variation in thickness of the spacer from kit to kit). The trans on my B5 has very little play in the top shaft, my B5m has more...just added a shim to take out some play and all is good.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:24 AM
  #6067  
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Originally Posted by blingy
Has anyone put the 2.5 degree toe block on to help with the on power push and wheelies and I'm thinking it should help with off power also
Good idea . Do you need the alum hinge pin holder to do this ?
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Losi57
Good idea . Do you need the alum hinge pin holder to do this ?
I dont believe so...There should be a plastic mount in your kit that is 2.5° toe in.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Just a question..How many stock racers, posting in here, need all this light weight stuff to keep up? All that money spent just so you can go as fast as the next guy. Why? because he's spending all that money to go that little bit faster. You all run a FULL main without a mistake? I can see doing it if you can make the A or B main in Stock at the Nats, but other than that I just don't get it

And that's all I'm saying, I just don't get spending all the money and worrying about this weight and that weight when it's all washed away with one pipe hit or marshal.

I raced stock/spec classes for years. mainly because it was all we had. Now, I would never do it.
Because I'm a better mechanic than driver. I really enjoy upgrading and working on my car and looking into every detail to try to get the most out of the limited power that is available. And even with all that extra cost, it's still cheaper than a kyosho.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Roken
Promatch offers 5mm to 4mm adapters
Why have an additional solder point that increases resistance?

They goofed up IMPO with 5mm ports. What I'd do is cut a female 4mm port in half and solder it in the 5mm port to allow the use of 4mm plugs. Done!

This of course is if ProMatch's was the only brick I could buy.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Just add in a thin shim or two...I dont really think its the spacer (or it could be a variation in thickness of the spacer from kit to kit). The trans on my B5 has very little play in the top shaft, my B5m has more...just added a shim to take out some play and all is good.
ok. I'll look into that. The only problem is not it's not just a little bit of back and forth play. It's significant movement, to the point where the gear mesh is lost. I'll try to take a picture when I get home.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
ok. I'll look into that. The only problem is not it's not just a little bit of back and forth play. It's significant movement, to the point where the gear mesh is lost. I'll try to take a picture when I get home.
Gear mesh should not be lost with side to side play (unless its moving a 1/4" and no longer contacting the pinion, then we have other issues). I thought mine was pretty significant in the B5m but the addtion of 1 shim took most of it out. It has a little bit now but nothing to be overly concerned about.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:48 AM
  #6073  
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Originally Posted by D.Martijn
Anyone??
where will you be racing the most?
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:49 AM
  #6074  
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Originally Posted by D.Martijn
Anyone??
I saw a MM B5 running at out outdoor track last night. It was not very impressive. lacked rear bite. The car might end up being good down the road, but more often than not, we lack the traction for MM. IMO, if your uncertain, go RM.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:12 AM
  #6075  
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Originally Posted by Mason
where will you be racing the most?
Probably my local dirt track, and some races on the astro tracks
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