137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-11-2014, 07:39 AM
#5851
Time to wrench!!!
03-11-2014, 07:53 AM
#5854
Ran a shorty full back and car was on rails, I'm playing with pistons right now... so far it's just getting better.
WC have you tried 10 gram inside front nose yet? Works good.
03-11-2014, 07:54 AM
#5855
Good news for the stock class! Still trying to decide if I "need" one.
03-11-2014, 08:01 AM
#5856
Tech Addict
hey wildcat.. yes I run mine both indoors and on a outdoor style track.. I have a friend who has a covered horse arena and we built a 60x90 track in it.. I have a contracting company so I have a skidsteer and viberpacker... the track is fun with tallest jumps being about 5 ft. tall and one triple is about 20ft. several 12 foot doubles and a lot of fun stuff.. dirt is just that.. dirt .. we water it but its more like a good outdoor track then a indoor. I raced motocross for yrs so its a very motocross track design.
for tires I run proline calibers front and back.. 1.6 tapered pistons all around, 35 wt. oil front, 30 rear. 1 deg neg camber in front, 2 neg in back. a 3/1 toe block. wheel base is short. I sanded .5mm off the front of the rear arm and use a small spacing washer behind the arm to take up any of the slack that was, as the kit has a tiny bit of movement there anyway. I run the battery with one thick pad infront and one of the 4mm pads infront,. so only one 4mm pad behind it. full size servo.. xp1015 digital .
and arms level front and bones level back.
The car is dialed! haven't broken anything yet and its super fun. 2wd buggy has always been my fav. class and I really enjoy the new car.
for tires I run proline calibers front and back.. 1.6 tapered pistons all around, 35 wt. oil front, 30 rear. 1 deg neg camber in front, 2 neg in back. a 3/1 toe block. wheel base is short. I sanded .5mm off the front of the rear arm and use a small spacing washer behind the arm to take up any of the slack that was, as the kit has a tiny bit of movement there anyway. I run the battery with one thick pad infront and one of the 4mm pads infront,. so only one 4mm pad behind it. full size servo.. xp1015 digital .
and arms level front and bones level back.
The car is dialed! haven't broken anything yet and its super fun. 2wd buggy has always been my fav. class and I really enjoy the new car.
03-11-2014, 08:02 AM
#5857
An update: I've managed to get my car together and on the track sunday. Only difference is 30wt in rear shocks just to be different. So far no bearing issues, no wheels falling off yet, and probably undergeared on a 13.5 but think I need to work on better cooling. The 1.7s in the rear are great if you like it to roll around like a cadillac or are attempting to run outdoors. I doubt 32.5wt oil will help that to my liking in my situation. Once I get the back dialed in better then I'll bother trying to get the front better.
I also managed to make a rookie mistake and gouged the one of the shock shafts in the rear but no tears/leaks so far *knock on wood*. will be replacing those and seals and getting proper tools since the plastic is so snug. Also finally experienced the ball cups popping off during tuning. my temporary solution - 2 2m drivers stuck in the ball studs until i can get a proper tap and find my chapstick.
beyond that my only issue is not having built the big bores before and trying to get ZERO rebound as shocks are for dampening! If you can tell me the magic secret on that, I would appreciate it.
I also managed to make a rookie mistake and gouged the one of the shock shafts in the rear but no tears/leaks so far *knock on wood*. will be replacing those and seals and getting proper tools since the plastic is so snug. Also finally experienced the ball cups popping off during tuning. my temporary solution - 2 2m drivers stuck in the ball studs until i can get a proper tap and find my chapstick.
beyond that my only issue is not having built the big bores before and trying to get ZERO rebound as shocks are for dampening! If you can tell me the magic secret on that, I would appreciate it.
03-11-2014, 08:24 AM
#5858
but 3 must be better than 2 because it's more and more is better!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLHglL7FCNY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLHglL7FCNY
03-11-2014, 08:36 AM
#5859
An update: I've managed to get my car together and on the track sunday. Only difference is 30wt in rear shocks just to be different. So far no bearing issues, no wheels falling off yet, and probably undergeared on a 13.5 but think I need to work on better cooling. The 1.7s in the rear are great if you like it to roll around like a cadillac or are attempting to run outdoors. I doubt 32.5wt oil will help that to my liking in my situation. Once I get the back dialed in better then I'll bother trying to get the front better.
I also managed to make a rookie mistake and gouged the one of the shock shafts in the rear but no tears/leaks so far *knock on wood*. will be replacing those and seals and getting proper tools since the plastic is so snug. Also finally experienced the ball cups popping off during tuning. my temporary solution - 2 2m drivers stuck in the ball studs until i can get a proper tap and find my chapstick.
beyond that my only issue is not having built the big bores before and trying to get ZERO rebound as shocks are for dampening! If you can tell me the magic secret on that, I would appreciate it.
I also managed to make a rookie mistake and gouged the one of the shock shafts in the rear but no tears/leaks so far *knock on wood*. will be replacing those and seals and getting proper tools since the plastic is so snug. Also finally experienced the ball cups popping off during tuning. my temporary solution - 2 2m drivers stuck in the ball studs until i can get a proper tap and find my chapstick.
beyond that my only issue is not having built the big bores before and trying to get ZERO rebound as shocks are for dampening! If you can tell me the magic secret on that, I would appreciate it.
03-11-2014, 08:40 AM
#5860
All this ball cup talk is getting annoying, when i built my car i would thread them on a couple turns then back them off a couple turns and i did that until i got it where i needed it,i have no issues with the ball cup being super tight or wanting to pop off while adjusting. Just take your time with them and your good to go
