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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:56 AM   #5791
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I didnt say MM sucked. I said it was too heavy at stock weight. If i tried to run a B5M at stock weight locally, I would not clear jumps and i would burn up motors. My point was they went 1/2 in that race. So the RM car is competitive. If i could only own 1 car, it would the the RM car. When all is said and done, I like it better. The one thing that I really really dislike about MM is the difficulty in jumping them. The RM car jumps so much better and is way less sensitive in the air.

If you have a chassis sponsor, your a "Pro" imo. Maybe not a full factory driver. Also, Hartson ran stock at the JC stock nats race.....Is he not a pro? Lol. Yeah and it was the MM car, I know.
Yes Hartson is the only pro to run stock in 2014, and it was MM.

There are many people that get chassis sponsors for their helpfulness around the track and this does not indicate they are "pro"

Yes, it is easier to go fast with a RM car for less money, but the speed of a motor does not change which car works better at a track.



If MM is faster in mod, it is also faster in stock, granted you may have to spend money on lightening the car, work on keeping the motor cool, but if its better in mod its better in stock.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:05 PM   #5792
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Yes Hartson is the only pro to run stock in 2014, and it was MM.

There are many people that get chassis sponsors for their helpfulness around the track and this does not indicate they are "pro"

Yes, it is easier to go fast with a RM car for less money, but the speed of a motor does not change which car works better at a track.



If MM is faster in mod, it is also faster in stock, granted you may have to spend money on lightening the car, work on keeping the motor cool, but if its better in mod its better in stock.
"On" the track on medium plus bite it feels great. In the air, I like the RM car feel better. Yeah, if you can lighten the car, keep the wait bias balanced and keep the motor cool, your good. Most of the guys at the club level running the MM cars and not getting the motors hot are running "torque" rotors, usually 13mm, which are ILLEGAL, lol. I am sure that some of the larger races..no nats or roar races, driver are using these toque rotors, lol. I tried one and it dropped my motor temps a lot. The car was slightly slower on the straight, but the grunt and lower temps were worth it. But again, more $$.


But yes, my MM car corners better than the RM car. If that is all you care about then MM wins
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:05 PM   #5793
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I didnt say MM sucked. I said it was too heavy at stock weight. If i tried to run a B5M at stock weight locally, I would not clear jumps and i would burn up motors. My point was they went 1/2 in that race. So the RM car is competitive. If i could only own 1 car, it would the the RM car. When all is said and done, I like it better. The one thing that I really really dislike about MM is the difficulty in jumping them. The RM car jumps so much better and is way less sensitive in the air.

If you have a chassis sponsor, your a "Pro" imo. Maybe not a full factory driver. Also, Hartson ran stock at the JC stock nats race.....Is he not a pro? Lol. Yeah and it was the MM car, I know.
not for nothing, but I ran my 22 2.0 in 17.5 at 1600+ gr and it was fine. I think what it comes down to is if you are more comfortable with MM, you'll be faster with it. but with that said, if I decide to run 17.5, I'll have Pucks, lightened top shaft and Triad slipper for which ever car I run it in.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:10 PM   #5794
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Bob, part of the weight issue comes into the layout. He they love the 180 1 foot run up triple. I ran both cars are stock weight, with the same electronics and the MM car was just too heavy. could never make the jumps on short run up. Our current layout has sissy jumps with longer run ups, so MM is much easier to drive. Plus they put in a ton of flowing turns. Last layout was pretty much all 180's lol. Next ime i run SRS, I might toss in a 17.5 and run it for a heat to see how it does. There is only one jump that I think would be hard to do for 10 minutes.


Btw, the pucks saves almost 30 grams, lol. that is a real chunk of weight.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:33 PM   #5795
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yeah that's true. Some layouts require much more rip. If I build a 17.5 car, I'll likely do RM 17.5 and MM mod. But that's only because I already have both and the 17.5 car will sit on the shelf most of the year. It's box stock and already almost under weight. After doing the transmission, it will definitely be under. Once the FT B5M comes out and I get that, then the current 5M will get the 17.5 motor slapped in.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:42 PM   #5796
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There are some things you can do to save a ton of weight that are relatively inexpensive such as a lighter lipo. SMC has a 3500mah lipo. I bought a couple to try out. If they can keep the voltage up for 5-7 minutes it would help a lot.....they are not expensive at all, $86 shipped for a pair. I currently use their 70/140 C 4600 lipos and they are excellent....better than my peaks for sure.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:52 PM   #5797
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There are some things you can do to save a ton of weight that are relatively inexpensive such as a lighter lipo. SMC has a 3500mah lipo. I bought a couple to try out. If they can keep the voltage up for 5-7 minutes it would help a lot.....they are not expensive at all, $86 shipped for a pair. I currently use their 70/140 C 4600 lipos and they are excellent....better than my peaks for sure.
yeah, I use the 4800mah ProMatach and they weight around 214 grams. A 150 gram lipo would be a HUGE weight loss. I am just not sure on them for 7-10 minute mains with warm up laps. My 4800 was fading around the 8 minute mark for one particular double after a 180. Once you start casing your rear wheels because your down on power, the whole race can be given away. I would try the light lipos as an "easy" weight loss, but I fear it is just not enough mah.
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:28 PM   #5798
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My C4.2 was 1640 grams stock buggy and owned club nights lol.

But thank you Wildcat for the info.
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:31 PM   #5799
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My C4.2 was 1640 grams and owned club nights lol.

But thank you Wildcat for the info.
umm, ok. lol. I dont race on your track, so I cant say. I think you would be hard pressed to own 17.5 buggy here with a 1640g car though, lol. Keep in mind the 2 guys that took 1st and second at the top gun race, are local club racers, lol. 17.5 club racing is pretty stout here with often A to E mains on club nights.
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:43 PM   #5800
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I don' think that there is a better platform between the two unless you start comparing surfaces. Putting that aside, where traction is available the extra weight of the MM car is easily compensated by the increase you get in corner speed. If you need more pop you can do a few things to get it out of a heavy car. You can gear a little lower and you can lock and/or eliminate your slipper. A tooth or two is not going to loose a race unless you have monster straights on your track.

On a majority of the tracks I have run lately people seem to like MM better. For a driver of my caliber it doesn't seem to matter. I'm building a RM SC6 just because its easier to tune and work on than the MM version I'm racing now. To me the MM car is more work....I guess I'm a follower and just go with the herd. I enjoy the racing experience either way.
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:52 PM   #5801
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yeah, I was planning to do just that next time I run the mm 17.5. Drop a few teeth and see if I can get the temps and "pop" right. Man, I like to mess around too much. On the current layout for the proline race this weekend, the MM might be the best. Its very flowing.... Maybe I will give it a go. I get 8 hours of practice on Friday, so I can do a few things . Now I am all MM motivated again, lol. I think I will pick up an alum top shaft on my way home, lol. grrr
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:09 PM   #5802
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umm, ok. lol. I dont race on your track, so I cant say. I think you would be hard pressed to own 17.5 buggy here with a 1640g car though, lol. Keep in mind the 2 guys that took 1st and second at the top gun race, are local club racers, lol. 17.5 club racing is pretty stout here with often A to E mains on club nights.
I race at the same track with the same 10 or so guys running stock buggy. We get a few new people here and there creating a B Main. smedium sized track. I will likely keep the RB6 for stock. Its been performing is light and fast and already setup for stock. Thinking I will pickup a B5M for mod though. Or maybe a serpent or maybe a 22 who knows. I'll goto my store and see what impulses I have at that moment.
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:16 PM   #5803
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dont get the 22 for mm. I have not tried the serpent MM, but the B5M is pretty good for mod. It feels more balanced than other MM cars I have tried. I thought I would struggle with bite, but I have not.
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:07 PM   #5804
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Try an Exotek slipper eliminator. It'll be $20 with an AE spur. It saves a lot weight, and rotating mass, right at the motor. Its a much bigger improvement then a topshaft. It also gives you a huge range of spurs down to 64, maybe lower. Your car will also run a tad cooler. I'll post a pic later. Its the best kept secret ever for stock.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:08 PM   #5805
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I stopped posting here a while ago due to the people that were to lazy to read/search the thread. Now with the volume of MISINFORMATION/OPINION that is posted as FACT, in regards to getting your B5m down to weight I feel I need to make on last, last post. First a few questions for the weight experts.

1. How much over the NASCAR minimum does Jimmy Johnsons car weigh WITHOUT ballast?

2. Same for Lewis Hamilton's F1 car? I guess more than Nico's since he's trailing in the points

3. How about those guys and there Tour De France bikes how much extra weight do they carry?

The answer to all three is NONE!

Finally if you think weight really doesn't matter, go ask your doctor how much extra weight you should carry.

If you want to know how to get to 1499g search out my previous posts in this thread it's all there, and doesn't cost that much. If you REALLY want to get light so you have ballasting options or want to run the FT Al parts PM me.

I wont waste the Experts (?) time responding to this thread again, nor will I be baited. I will continue to follow your ridiculous theories though, because My Teammates and I love a good laugh
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