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Old 07-01-2014, 08:35 AM   #5671
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what size wire to buy 12 13 14 g?
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:46 AM   #5672
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I am trying to get my car down to a race weight of 1500 grams. I am at 1640 with a shorty battery, titanium screws and turnbuckles.

Can you guys that are at 1500 grams or lower please post your parts list?
im in the same boat at 1620 grams. Here is what you need to do from what I have found

ti turnbuckles
alum topshaft
nova/triad slipper
pucks
shorty servo
and to get that low people are running the slim 3300mah lipos that only weight around 150g.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:54 AM   #5673
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what size wire to buy 12 13 14 g?
My Orion uses 12 guage wire. Its pretty beefy and can certainly handle mod power. If running stock, or looking to save weight try the 14 guage.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:37 AM   #5674
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Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
im in the same boat at 1620 grams. Here is what you need to do from what I have found

ti turnbuckles
alum topshaft
nova/triad slipper
pucks
shorty servo
and to get that low people are running the slim 3300mah lipos that only weight around 150g.
you should also not that some people that have gotten that low didnt like it. I personally would take it in steps and stop once you get the feel you need. Keep in mind that going with ALL of the light weight drive terrain will lower your weight over the tires. Some guys are actually adding it back with the brass suspension holder. thus keeping weight in the rear and lowering it on the car. People with shorty servos have said that the started to get push up front. So keep in mind. yeah, lowering weight will lower motor temps, but it will change the entire feel of the car. maybe not for the best. The BIG weight loss comes from the 150g battery. If i were you, I would borrow a friends that has one, set your ride height and see how you like the 50+ grams you just lost. dropping a 100+ grams from your car and lowering the rotating mass will make the car handle very differently.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:41 AM   #5675
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what size wire to buy 12 13 14 g?
get some Reedy 15g Vito, its smaller , lighter & carry's the same power as the heavier , thicker 15g available.

Sorry above all wrong Vito..whoops..

Get 12g Reedy # 647
Its a lot thinner and lighter then normal 12g motor wire.

What I use...
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Last edited by Wild Cherry; 07-01-2014 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:44 AM   #5676
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15g? never seen that before. don't see it on reedy's site.
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:29 AM   #5677
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Need a 23T servo horn(with offset) that will take an associated b5m ball stud. The standard J associated horn(no offset) does not clear the servo. I have the shorter ft gold ball studs but it still hits the servo when turning. Need a horn with an offset that will take an associated ball stud. TLR horns will not take the associated ball studs. Could not find a plastic horn with an offset in my search. I assume a plastic horn will allow me to create my own threads when I screw in the b5m ball stud. Thanks
I had this, too! with a savox standard size servo, my sollution was first to remove the plastic spacers as above stated, then i took a 3mm drill and drilled the servo mount hole so the servo came just a tad more backwards, THEN it cleared just about with a couple MM left.

And about the horn, just got the tlr22 25t horn but ofc as you said it did not fit as i thought, so i took a file and opened the hole just a bit and forced the stud in there and kinda "re-tapped" it with the stud :P and it actually worked fine and is fitting hard when you screw it in it is alu so its no as hard as a steel one and it gave in for the stud :P
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:50 AM   #5678
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Tlr1554 is the plastic version of the offset 22 losi servo horn.
If it is 23T and the offset is sufficient, looks like it might take care of things. I had already removed all the spacers and it is still hitting servo. Was going to dremmel assoc servo horn and thin it out a bit where the ball stud attaches but may try 1554 first. thanks for the help all.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:29 PM   #5679
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
you should also not that some people that have gotten that low didnt like it. I personally would take it in steps and stop once you get the feel you need. Keep in mind that going with ALL of the light weight drive terrain will lower your weight over the tires. Some guys are actually adding it back with the brass suspension holder. thus keeping weight in the rear and lowering it on the car. People with shorty servos have said that the started to get push up front. So keep in mind. yeah, lowering weight will lower motor temps, but it will change the entire feel of the car. maybe not for the best. The BIG weight loss comes from the 150g battery. If i were you, I would borrow a friends that has one, set your ride height and see how you like the 50+ grams you just lost. dropping a 100+ grams from your car and lowering the rotating mass will make the car handle very differently.
Thanks guys for your input. Very wise information. I have taken this all into account.

My track is switching to carpet, so traction should be awesome and very consistent. Handling could be way different than on clay, especially being able to run 5mm lower ride height.

I like lots of steering, I run the gullwing front arms and the battery is all the way forward, so a lighter servo is probably not a good idea, I do not know how it will handle on the carpet.

Good idea, I may start with a lighter battery.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:42 PM   #5680
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1640 with a shorty and ti screws seems exceedingly high. Are they lunsford screws?

i'm at 1550 with lunsford ti screws, jconcepts ti turnbuckles, lunsford ti shock mounts and ballstuds and nothing else yet. Waiting on pucks and aluminum topshaft and milled motor plate.

One thing that you may overlook is you can actually remove about 20 grams by not running a battery strap, thumbscrews or foam. Just tape the lipo in with servo tape.

Also the battery im using is 220 grams.

I believe i can get to 1500 without milling the chassis, we shall see.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:15 PM   #5681
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No, they are not Lunsford. Also, I am only using half of the ti screws (waiting to install some other items first).

I am also using an Exotek carbon fiber battery strap and have a amb transponder installed.

I do have cut gears, MIP Pucks and a MIP top shaft waiting to go in.
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:43 PM   #5682
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Originally Posted by pumpkinfish View Post
Where did you buy the wing?
In case you didn't find it already.

http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-3racwg...y-p-25253.html
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:41 PM   #5683
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Originally Posted by GTSSTANG View Post
I am trying to get my car down to a race weight of 1500 grams. I am at 1640 with a shorty battery, titanium screws and turnbuckles.

Can you guys that are at 1500 grams or lower please post your parts list?
Quit worrying about the weight of the car. A heavy car is a planted car. I added weight to my RM 17.5 car to reduce deflection. Sometimes no suspension change alone can accomplish a desired feel. If you do reduce the weight, slowly reduce rotating mass like stated above in a step process. I went really lite on the drivetrain to find the car became too snappy for my liking so I changed to a gear diff to get some rotating mass back(along with a more consistent diff feel) back and it is right on the money now. If you feel your car is slower compared to others you race with, maybe it is time to invest effort into a free rotating drivetrain and really good motor/esc tuning.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:31 PM   #5684
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Originally Posted by Micah123 View Post
If it is 23T and the offset is sufficient, looks like it might take care of things. I had already removed all the spacers and it is still hitting servo. Was going to dremmel assoc servo horn and thin it out a bit where the ball stud attaches but may try 1554 first. thanks for the help all.
tried the plastic losi horn but no success. dremmeled my assoc horn and it should work fine as long as it can hold up now that it is thinner.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:39 PM   #5685
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tried the plastic losi horn but no success. dremmeled my assoc horn and it should work fine as long as it can hold up now that it is thinner.
i had the same thing, i put an o-ring on the steering arm ballstud (like how it is on the rack) and it keeps it angled to clear the servo.
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