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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:29 PM   #5611
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Sounds like my track, 2x1.7 pistons and 37.5/32.5 oil +/- 2.5 weight. That should help a lot. 2x1.6 pistons are awesome everywhere but that track, you just hope to get the car around the track with them.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:04 PM   #5612
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Sounds like my track, 2x1.7 pistons and 37.5/32.5 oil +/- 2.5 weight. That should help a lot. 2x1.6 pistons are awesome everywhere but that track, you just hope to get the car around the track with them.
37.5 front? 32.5 rear I'll give it a shot
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:30 PM   #5613
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You can also go lighter depending on the temperature. That's pitting in a 90 degree pit area.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:50 PM   #5614
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Anyone running B5M mod try the new MIP shiny pucks yet?
Mine just showed up. Watched Steven consistently 2/10s faster per lap at OCRC. It freed the suspension up and increased traction. He got a phone call the next day saying he wasn't allowed to run them due to conflicting interests. So they were given to a fast kid from AZ running the top gun shoutout this weekend.
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Old 06-27-2014, 09:36 PM   #5615
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Anyone try these out in the b5M in mod class?

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...arriers-2-Blue
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:10 PM   #5616
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Mine just showed up. Watched Steven consistently 2/10s faster per lap at OCRC. It freed the suspension up and increased traction. He got a phone call the next day saying he wasn't allowed to run them due to conflicting interests. So they were given to a fast kid from AZ running the top gun shoutout this weekend.
i heard the placebo bones were even better than the shiny ones.
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:11 PM   #5617
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Just took my recently finished b5m to the track for the second time tonight. It drives like a dream. I know nothing about tuning and setting up but all I know is that it is about 100x easier to drive than a slash 4x4. now to start figuring how to make it faster and even easier to drive.

All in all, so much friggin fun
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:16 AM   #5618
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Hey folks, new poster, some time reader love this thread and all the good discussions!
were racing 1/8 when i was younger (bout 16 years ago) when the MP5 was hot :P
so jan this year i got into the 1/10 and got myself xb4 2wd and got totally hooked again

but have now put that aside for the B5M :P

however down to the question, the rear hub wheel base spacer, when put in "front" , that is the 2 shims in the rear, the hub touches the arm and do not let it run freely and do not let the arm go as far down as if having it in the middle, is this intentional? I mean the wheel base options is there, but it does not seem like its meant to be?

Just installed the alloy hubs but rechecked with the plastic ones and they seem to do the same thing? they come to close to the end and touches the little "curved" bit on the arms. and do not let the arm as far down because of it.
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:22 AM   #5619
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I race on a high traction track with little choppy bumps. My car is good but dances around good on the straight away.IT feels like the shocks are packing....So my question is...... if I put in the 1.4 three hole pistons with lighter oil will this get ride of some of the packing?? And soak up the little chop?

Thanks
I find this chart to be gold.http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...mper_Chart.pdf
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:24 AM   #5620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOO-TALL View Post
I race on a high traction track with little choppy bumps. My car is good but dances around good on the straight away.IT feels like the shocks are packing....So my question is...... if I put in the 1.4 three hole pistons with lighter oil will this get ride of some of the packing?? And soak up the little chop?

Thanks
Front shocks:
35wt
1.6
white springs

Rear shocks:
27.5wt
3x1.4
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30 deg bulkhead instead of 25, Arms of your choosing. 2.5+2 rear arm mount.
I run shorty all the way back and with gullwings. Very easy to drive. Sometimes I add weight around the lipo. 4mm trailing. Everything else is by the manual.
The low friction X-rings for the shocks makes all the difference in the world. Much smoother shock action. One of the best options you could get.

Last edited by quasimodo; 06-28-2014 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:27 PM   #5621
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Can somebody post a picture of the aluminum steering rack, and where those silver spacers go please?
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:48 PM   #5622
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Ok to all that have had tight ball cups (I know some haven't had the problem but it does exist) get a ball cup reamer used for helicopters and run it thru your call cups just a bit. This works way better than a drill bit or polishing the balls and it's quick and easy
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:04 PM   #5623
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Can somebody post a picture of the aluminum steering rack, and where those silver spacers go please?
they go between these bearings
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:54 PM   #5624
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Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
Ok to all that have had tight ball cups (I know some haven't had the problem but it does exist) get a ball cup reamer used for helicopters and run it thru your call cups just a bit. This works way better than a drill bit or polishing the balls and it's quick and easy
part number?
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:18 PM   #5625
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not sure what the size i used was I can find out tomorrow but here is a link to what it is (again not sure what size you need tho)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nd_reamer.html

Works great I just bought a b5 rm for my son and I used this. All ball cups are free as can be. The best part is that it just reams out the middle of the cup so it stays tight at the edge so it won't pop off any easier than before.
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