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Old 06-24-2014, 04:52 AM   #5536
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Are people using the ceramic bearings in the diff for mod class as well? What would be the advantage if so.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:52 AM   #5537
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Are people using the ceramic bearings in the diff for mod class as well? What would be the advantage if so.
The schelle bearing help lighten your bank account
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:33 AM   #5538
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Nothing wrong with the Ae bearing, have more runs on my B5 then most and the bearings are still like new, including the front bearings.

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Old 06-24-2014, 06:39 AM   #5539
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I have not had any issues with the kit bearings. None have failed or gotten gritty yet.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:50 AM   #5540
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So finished the build last week and had been busy.

Added the common "basics" if you will.

MIP topshaft
MIP Puck system
Cut Gears
Schelle Slipper (SO MUCH BETTER THAN STOCK)
Degrease and oil trans bearings

Using JConcepts Dirt Webs Gold front and rear and a Promatch 4600 shorty.

Broke in the diff and slipper and ran 1 pack. Kind of a rough run as the tires just weren't hooking up and the track was pretty dusty.

Tightened the diff just a CH and loosened the slipper just a CH and took another run.
Much better.

Dropped ride height 1mm front and rear and took another run.
Better again.

Took fourth run after cleaning and saucing tires and the car is working pretty good now. I may loosen the slipper even more depending on the track conditions. When it was dusty the car wanted to spin out on the low speed tight turns, but was really good everywhere else.

The high speed handling is beyond my expectations. Can thread the chicane with full throttle. It also seems to recover from minor pipe hits really well.

Overall, I'm very impressed with this buggy. Can't wait to get some more stick time and make my way into the A mains, where I will never see the podium again. LOL.
Stick Time?
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:52 AM   #5541
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quick non specific b5m question - for stock racing what is the recommended C rating for lipos? Im just looking at some SMC batteries and wondering which to get or how much of a difference i would notice.

Also the battery I got at my shop is a 5mm bullet connector... was this a bad move? Should I have gone 4, the only other brand i have found are the turnigys from hobby king. The battery I got was an aero-model.

Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:54 AM   #5542
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many of the new packs are 5mm. My proteks and Promatch are 5mm also. The AeroModel 90c packs are the same as my Promatch packs. And they have pretty low IR and because the Mah is high also, I have that kick i need for stock late into the race.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:00 AM   #5543
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Just finished my mm build and have encountered a problem. I assembled my gearbox with ceramic bearings to start. There's a rough spot somewhere and I've checked the gears for debris and it's clean. The two halves of the gearbox don't close all the way in a couple spots too. Anyone have these issues too?
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:20 AM   #5544
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So, I need to replace my steel turnbuckles with lunsfords. I have been delaying the effort because I HATE setting up the front toe and camber. Even when I measured my links during the initial build, I noticed it was way off. I eventually get it all sorted out, but the effort is painful, and lots of trial and error. Does anyone have good tips for get the front end at zero toe and 1 deg camber the first time? I have been debating getting setup wheels and maybe a board of some sort.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:36 AM   #5545
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I use a highly technical calibrated eyeball. Lol i hate doing it too. I use a wheel with no tire to measure my camber. Makes it way easier to be accurate
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:38 AM   #5546
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not a bad idea. I still have the kit wheels with no tires mounted. Still not looking forward to it, lol.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:41 AM   #5547
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So, I need to replace my steel turnbuckles with lunsfords. I have been delaying the effort because I HATE setting up the front toe and camber. Even when I measured my links during the initial build, I noticed it was way off. I eventually get it all sorted out, but the effort is painful, and lots of trial and error. Does anyone have good tips for get the front end at zero toe and 1 deg camber the first time? I have been debating getting setup wheels and maybe a board of some sort.
Like you hate using a camber gauge and wrench to turn them? I can't think of an easier way to set camber than that. It should be something to check on the car after every couple of runs, and only takes seconds. Set the gauge to the desired camber, slide it in and if the wheel isn't flush with the gauge take a wrench to the link and put in a 1/2 turn. The kit setting distances are ballpark. The actual camber on your car depends on the weight distribution side to side in the car, and will likely result in different distances than recommended in the kit. The links also don't have to be perfectly centered between the two ball cups if that is something you are concerned about. They should be close, but it doesn't have to be perfect. I dislike threading on the cups, but once they are screwed on setting camber isn't that hard. Could do the whole car in 30 seconds.

As for toe, I have never used a setup station. I just use a small tape measure and measure the front and rear of the wheels. If the distances are off, adjust the steering links until the distances are the same. This adjustment is a little trickier because you want to try and have both links be the same length. Once again, the kit is only a ballpark. Actual toe in the front of the buggy is dependent on your forward/rear weight distribution. (If you compress the suspension the car will have different toe than at normal ride height).

As for using a set up station, it wouldn't help with making any of the initial adjustments, it would just be a more exact/expensive way of measuring all of the above after your links are on the car. Not needed in my opinion for offroad.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:45 AM   #5548
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I use a highly technical calibrated eyeball. Lol i hate doing it too. I use a wheel with no tire to measure my camber. Makes it way easier to be accurate
Surprise some don't just follow the kit instruction's..

Ae gives the proper lengths, just use a set of calibers and anyone will achieve a perfect alignment everytime.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:48 AM   #5549
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Yeah, camber is easy to set. My issue is, when I change camber, toe changes also. Its a back an forth thing. I will try the ruler method you suggested for toe, as my eyeing it method takes a while, lol. Again, I can do it, I just dislike it, lol. Was looking for an easier/faster way to get the toe and camber right. Again, camber is easy. But it messes with toe, so i go back and forth.
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:00 AM   #5550
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
So, I need to replace my steel turnbuckles with lunsfords. I have been delaying the effort because I HATE setting up the front toe and camber. Even when I measured my links during the initial build, I noticed it was way off. I eventually get it all sorted out, but the effort is painful, and lots of trial and error. Does anyone have good tips for get the front end at zero toe and 1 deg camber the first time? I have been debating getting setup wheels and maybe a board of some sort.
I just did the same thing yesterday and put Lunsfords on mine. I used my calipers to measure the distance between the cups (exposed part of turnbuckle) and re-set the lunsfords to that measurement when I put it back together. Went quick and easy, and all my settings are exactly the same.
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