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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:24 PM   #5506
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Ran the recently converted B5 to B5M yesterday at an outdoors race with high traction....WOW! Love it! So much fun to drive and jumped awesome. Ran it with a ProTek 5600 square lipo and JC Dirt Webs all around. Love it.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:23 PM   #5507
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....going back to the discussion about if it was less expensive back in the day or now to race. I couldn't afford it back in the 80's when I was a teen. An RC10 was as expensive as a B5 is today, or more, and Novak ESC was also close to the same price as a Tekin is now. In fact, I ran a resistor type speed control when I started. It was the batteries that were really the kicker. Back then if you were a player you had a Tekin peak charger and needed a power supply or car battery. I can't remember the name of the Futaba radios that were popular back then but they came in a Jr and Pro version and were in the same price range as todays radios. The bottom line is that I think its cheaper and easier to be able to race at a competetive level.

All that being said, stock is the hardest class to win these days and the competition is fierce. Its not enough that some guys are just faster....they have better stuff too. I know sponsored guys who's sponsor gives them motors you can't buy....its ridiculous. I, myself, have the money to have the best of everything but after looking introspectively I have decided that I suck. I'm ok with that. I have fun. If I want to make A mains etc at big events I can race mod or rookie. At our big races it seems like half the mod guys break and since there are half as many the field ends up smaller. The guys who can't win stock race rookie.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:26 PM   #5508
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was a five min job
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:26 PM   #5509
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Default Typo clay vs Dirt Web Gold

Running typo golds. Wondering how dirt webs gold or blue compare.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:30 PM   #5510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Mentioned & intended as a suggestion for higher performance.

Just my opinion, milling the chassis for weight reduction defeats the purpose of using a alloy chassis .
Could just use Graphite to get a weight reduction.
The whole reason for the alloy chassis is to use the weight for a lower center of gravity.
Disagree with statement. The main reason for the change to aluminum chassis is because the metal chassis absorbs more energy, allowing the car to soak up bumps better. It just happens that with lighter batteries and more HP available, it is easier to get away with a heavier car so you might as well put that weight down low and make a stronger car in the process.

If you remember most guys running B4's ran the plastic chassis. The molded graphite chassis wasn't appreciably lighter, it was stiffer, and made the car twitchy and harder to drive.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #5511
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Originally Posted by Micah123 View Post
Running typo golds. Wondering how dirt webs gold or blue compare.
Gold is a clay compound and Blue is a soft compound. They are used on totally different surfaces and would not be interchangeable.

That said they are a similar tread pattern. I have not used the AKA tire, so I could not compare. At the track they are both usually run at the same time, so they would behave similarly.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:23 AM   #5512
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Does the mip pucks system really make that noticeable of a differance in 17.5 with the mm?
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:56 AM   #5513
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Hi All,
I just ordered my B5M. I read a lot of pages here but I am not sure if there are any specific things I should take care for while building it? Some people mentioned to polish the ball studs. Something else?

Thx
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:56 AM   #5514
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Anybody looking for a brand new B5M still sealed in box? Here is one in the For Sale forum:

Brand New Team Associated B5M
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:53 AM   #5515
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Originally Posted by racer_hh View Post
Hi All,
I just ordered my B5M. I read a lot of pages here but I am not sure if there are any specific things I should take care for while building it? Some people mentioned to polish the ball studs. Something else?

Thx
No reason to polish the ball ends.
Why ?
They already come polished from the factory.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:55 AM   #5516
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Mentioned & intended as a suggestion for higher performance.

Just my opinion, milling the chassis for weight reduction defeats the purpose of using a alloy chassis .
Could just use Graphite to get a weight reduction.
The whole reason for the alloy chassis is to use the weight for a lower center of gravity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkipGear View Post
Disagree with statement. The main reason for the change to aluminum chassis is because the metal chassis absorbs more energy, allowing the car to soak up bumps better. It just happens that with lighter batteries and more HP available, it is easier to get away with a heavier car so you might as well put that weight down low and make a stronger car in the process.

If you remember most guys running B4's ran the plastic chassis. The molded graphite chassis wasn't appreciably lighter, it was stiffer, and made the car twitchy and harder to drive.
The reason it has an aluminum chassis is because they couldn't get the plastic one stiff enough. They said so right in an interview. Probably the same interview where they explained why they put gullwing in the MM and flat arms in the RM.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:41 AM   #5517
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Seth

You need to separate the thumb screw mounts from the chassis tray.

This allows you rake the thumb screw mounts more forward for improved coverage of the battery with the strap. You will be able to move the strap about a 1/4 inch more forward, not much but still better. Personally not once had any issue with the battery coming loose.

Suggest also trim or grind the battery tray off for more flex & improved handling.
maybe also consider moving the PT forward on top of servo.

Looks great fan & all.

Drive it for a while..
Then ?
Drive someone else's with a set up like you use to have.

You will really understand the difference then .
That makes sense now, I had noticed you had cut the hold down mounts off, now it makes sense. I guess we could also drill new battery strap holes in the chassis, but that's a lot of work.

And cutting down the side pods was my next step, make it a little more flexi. Although with nationals at SCRC I may leave it as is since that track is high grip, super fast, and bumpy like the moon. I think a stiff chassis will help smooth it out over the high speed bumps where a flexi chassis may dig in too much.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:22 AM   #5518
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Seth

Trim the sides, not for traction.
For allowing the front of chassis to flex same or more even with the rear of chassis.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:21 AM   #5519
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Quote:
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My coworker is a New Design Engineer and CNC programmer for our huge CNC's. We did a Solidworks FEA Stress analysis on the B5M chassis to see how we can remove weight without affecting rigidity. The "spiderweb" design is used to retain its "factory" stiffness indicated in dark blue in the first pic below. The lighter shades are somewhat weaker areas. Without the spiderwebs we started to see green to yellow areas which noticeably have more flex under load so in order to reduce weight and keep it within light blue to dark, we had to add the ribs. We weren't concerned about the lighter shades not dark blue because once the plastic parts were assembled and installed, the chassis was re-enforced to no flex at all. The last pic is the final product with plastic frames attached. Mill time is 39 minutes a chassis at .073" depth. Factory mill is .050". Chassis is .105" total so there's .032" left at bottom of mill holes. Effective weight loss of 30 grams on the money and still stiff as stock. The power of solidworks at its best when used to its potential. PM me for info on getting it done for your chassis.











wow wow... WOW!!!!!! That looks really good. Nice job there.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:38 AM   #5520
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I'm really sorry if this has been asked before, but is what are the specs for the rear arm mount inserts?

I bought a roller and it came with the aluminum mounts with D size inserts. What is the toe/antisquat for the D insert and other inserts? Thanks.
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