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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:14 PM   #5461
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going to sand the shim down some
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:54 PM   #5462
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
I won the state championship in 2wd stock buggy in the early 90s and qualified top 5 two other years. I know about the stock class as it pertained to yesteryear. Back then stock was the biggest class around here and I could barely afford tires let alone anything else, so I raced with what I had, but now as you say it's much different. It didn't cost what it does now back then. Not even close. I still have the Jrx2, a Tekin charger and an old chipped Airtronics controller from those days, as well as 3 of the batteries I need to throw out still. Matched cells yadda yadda...nothing compared to the expense of today.

It was entry class back then around here, but now it's like you said and like I stated it's not that these days.

In the end it's mostly about the driver behind the buggy, not the reading on the scale the cars are sitting on.
Except for the cap on the price of stock motors (was always $28 but you would have to buy a couple and dyno them for the "fast one"), everything is less expensive now. You can run the same pack over and over now. Buy a nice Reedy pack and it's only $90 or less. As an example, in 1993, a Duratrax pack for racing was $63 and you needed 4 of them - 1 for practice plus either 3 for a race day or 2 practice and 2 heats at a bigger race ($252 for so-so batteries). Or buy something high end like Ballistic Batteries and they were $12/cell plus $7 for battery bars. So 4 would be $312 plus you had to put them together yourself! And they didn't last all that long cycle wise till they started to drop off. Then there were the darn brushes. File them with a kit or buy them pre-filed. Soft brushes filed down lasted what - 2 runs? There's another $5 just for 2 runs. Plus you needed a friend with or to buy a stock motor commutator lathe $. In 1993 a Novak 410-HPc was $195. You can use a juststock now for $49 in blinky - the cheap ones didn't work for stock back then.

Those are just a couple of examples of how much more reasonable things are now. Tires last longer now too with better rubber blends - that's a very nice change. Those flat fuzzies didn't last very long back then.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:45 PM   #5463
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I agree alot cheaper nowadayd
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:10 PM   #5464
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A couple pages back they were talking about the cut tranny gears from:

http://www.shop.cbscustomrc.com/Asso...a-Set-CBB5.htm

But they are still on pre-order, is there anywhere else you can order them?
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:28 PM   #5465
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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Except for the cap on the price of stock motors (was always $28 but you would have to buy a couple and dyno them for the "fast one"), everything is less expensive now. You can run the same pack over and over now. Buy a nice Reedy pack and it's only $90 or less. As an example, in 1993, a Duratrax pack for racing was $63 and you needed 4 of them - 1 for practice plus either 3 for a race day or 2 practice and 2 heats at a bigger race ($252 for so-so batteries). Or buy something high end like Ballistic Batteries and they were $12/cell plus $7 for battery bars. So 4 would be $312 plus you had to put them together yourself! And they didn't last all that long cycle wise till they started to drop off. Then there were the darn brushes. File them with a kit or buy them pre-filed. Soft brushes filed down lasted what - 2 runs? There's another $5 just for 2 runs. Plus you needed a friend with or to buy a stock motor commutator lathe $. In 1993 a Novak 410-HPc was $195. You can use a juststock now for $49 in blinky - the cheap ones didn't work for stock back then.

Those are just a couple of examples of how much more reasonable things are now. Tires last longer now too with better rubber blends - that's a very nice change. Those flat fuzzies didn't last very long back then.
We'll have to agree to disagree. Our experiences then and now are very different. At a local level, people aren't binning motors like they are computer chips, but at a higher level they are binning even $140 Orion motors to find the best.

My tires lasted much longer back then. Every track was loamy and not clay and sugar like now. I have tires on a jrx2 that are over 22 years old and they were ran a lot and still have a ton of tread. The material and the products, however, are much better now. Lipo, brushless, esc all way better, but they are more expensive on initial purchase. Maybe it's because of the name brands I buy vs. the cheaper stuff that is viable you listed.

Bottom line is I spend way more now then I did in the past. Maybe my spending habits are just bad now with all the newer shiny stuff on the market.
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:05 PM   #5466
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:38 PM   #5467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Except for the cap on the price of stock motors (was always $28 but you would have to buy a couple and dyno them for the "fast one"), everything is less expensive now. You can run the same pack over and over now. Buy a nice Reedy pack and it's only $90 or less. As an example, in 1993, a Duratrax pack for racing was $63 and you needed 4 of them - 1 for practice plus either 3 for a race day or 2 practice and 2 heats at a bigger race ($252 for so-so batteries). Or buy something high end like Ballistic Batteries and they were $12/cell plus $7 for battery bars. So 4 would be $312 plus you had to put them together yourself! And they didn't last all that long cycle wise till they started to drop off. Then there were the darn brushes. File them with a kit or buy them pre-filed. Soft brushes filed down lasted what - 2 runs? There's another $5 just for 2 runs. Plus you needed a friend with or to buy a stock motor commutator lathe $. In 1993 a Novak 410-HPc was $195. You can use a juststock now for $49 in blinky - the cheap ones didn't work for stock back then.

Those are just a couple of examples of how much more reasonable things are now. Tires last longer now too with better rubber blends - that's a very nice change. Those flat fuzzies didn't last very long back then.

I remimber those days.......I agree cheaper nowadays
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:05 AM   #5468
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need help how to get a proling wing to fit on the mounts to tick with the shim on
I did what I used to do with my 1/8 buggies and sanded off the nubs, drilled a hole and screwed the wing on using the blue countersunk washers. Works great and you never have any loose wings.
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:07 AM   #5469
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She's all done and ready to race.

I literally haven't built or driven a 2wd buggy since the AE TQ10.
Looks great! Looking forward to seeing you over there.
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:46 AM   #5470
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Today will be switching to the K springs , red rear & gold front.

Also switching to a new rear camber position, inside on chassis & outside rear hole on alloy hub.


New rear toe & anti squat , going to 3/0...
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:00 AM   #5471
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update on the wing I took the shim out ?
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:13 AM   #5472
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Vito

Run the spacer on top of the wing..

If your wings mounts are short ? Just bend the body clip a little to help you push the clip into position .
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:17 AM   #5473
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ia going to sand the shim down on a sanding tadel
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:27 AM   #5474
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ia going to sand the shim down on a sanding tadel
No sanding, just bend the body clip. Easier to do.

Order a new set of wing mounts . Ae made a running change and already improved the spacing for the wing mounts.
Order you a new set.
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:34 AM   #5475
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEBZS&P=Z
is this a new set updated mounts
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