136LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-07-2014, 05:46 AM
#5417
fancy wiring just means you'll miss a race trying to fix/replace something. been there, done that. stick with the KISS method.
03-07-2014, 06:02 AM
#5418
Whatever ackerman adjustment makes the tires more parallel at full lock gives more aggressive steering. Less parallel at full lock is smoother and less aggressive. The problem is that some racks are way forward of the spindle arms where as some are parallel or slightly behind. The steering turnbuckles are swept toward the front of the car vs toward the rear of the car as they head to the steering rack and bellcrank. Because of that difference, moving the link forward or backward is NOT THE SAME between different steering box designs. Add or remove washers and note the difference. More parallel at full lock == more steering.
Wayne
Wayne
03-07-2014, 06:21 AM
#5419
03-07-2014, 07:04 AM
#5420
Picked up my kit last night and im anxious to get it built today, anyone have any info as far as a good starting set up for high bite? Also any upgrades that should be purchased right off the bat? thank you in advance for any info you can provide.
not going to need it no more....
03-07-2014, 07:20 AM
#5424
Got my kit built, painting the body and gluing tires now.
A few notes from my build:
Ballcups are a flipping nightmare, SO tight on the turnbuckles.
Is it just my kit, or is the body pathetically flimsy?
I was missing one of the 3 hole hub inserts, I got 1 3 hole, and 3 2 holes. Not major, but annoying.
My gearcover has a big melted hole in it, looks like a soldering iron touched it, but more likely wasn't molded properly.
All in all an OK build, hopefully they'll get the problems worked out. Going to email about the messed up parts tomorrow.
Also, I noticed some typos in the manual, usually parts being labled with the wrong color.
Can't wait to hit the track!
A few notes from my build:
Ballcups are a flipping nightmare, SO tight on the turnbuckles.
Is it just my kit, or is the body pathetically flimsy?
I was missing one of the 3 hole hub inserts, I got 1 3 hole, and 3 2 holes. Not major, but annoying.
My gearcover has a big melted hole in it, looks like a soldering iron touched it, but more likely wasn't molded properly.
All in all an OK build, hopefully they'll get the problems worked out. Going to email about the messed up parts tomorrow.
Also, I noticed some typos in the manual, usually parts being labled with the wrong color.
Can't wait to hit the track!
03-07-2014, 07:25 AM
#5425
Personally feel the new ball cups are the best ever, strong , tight & smooth...
A little need wax makes threading all the easier.
Build Tip
Don't use petroleum based products to lube the threads.
If you use grease the ball cup will thread on easier, but after a day or so the grease swells the plastic and the ball cup grips even tighter making adustments
almost impossible.
use wax or soap instead
A little need wax makes threading all the easier.
Build Tip
Don't use petroleum based products to lube the threads.
If you use grease the ball cup will thread on easier, but after a day or so the grease swells the plastic and the ball cup grips even tighter making adustments
almost impossible.
use wax or soap instead
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-07-2014 at 08:33 AM.
03-07-2014, 08:04 AM
#5426
The rod ends are not harder than any other car.
1. Clamp the turnbuckle in a pair of vise grips.
2. Take your Chapstick out of your pocket and stick the threads in it.
3. Push and turn the rod ends onto the turnbuckle.
It may take a few attempts but don't give up.
4. I actually used my shock shaft wrench from my ebuggy and it fit the outside of the rod end well enough to allow me to use it for leverage. It was one of the APE shock tools over on the tekno ebuggy forum.
1. Clamp the turnbuckle in a pair of vise grips.
2. Take your Chapstick out of your pocket and stick the threads in it.
3. Push and turn the rod ends onto the turnbuckle.
It may take a few attempts but don't give up.
4. I actually used my shock shaft wrench from my ebuggy and it fit the outside of the rod end well enough to allow me to use it for leverage. It was one of the APE shock tools over on the tekno ebuggy forum.
03-07-2014, 08:21 AM
#5427
Bull. You surely have some nice tips, but to claim they're not harder than say the previous generation AE ball cups is completely ignoring mountains of empirical evidence and feedback. I built a b44 and a b5 in the same week and the difference was pronounced.
Wayne
Wayne
03-07-2014, 08:23 AM
#5428
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
The rod ends are not harder than any other car.
1. Clamp the turnbuckle in a pair of vise grips.
2. Take your Chapstick out of your pocket and stick the threads in it.
3. Push and turn the rod ends onto the turnbuckle.
It may take a few attempts but don't give up.
4. I actually used my shock shaft wrench from my ebuggy and it fit the outside of the rod end well enough to allow me to use it for leverage. It was one of the APE shock tools over on the tekno ebuggy forum.
1. Clamp the turnbuckle in a pair of vise grips.
2. Take your Chapstick out of your pocket and stick the threads in it.
3. Push and turn the rod ends onto the turnbuckle.
It may take a few attempts but don't give up.
4. I actually used my shock shaft wrench from my ebuggy and it fit the outside of the rod end well enough to allow me to use it for leverage. It was one of the APE shock tools over on the tekno ebuggy forum.
Great advice!!!!!
03-07-2014, 08:45 AM
#5430
Seems kinda backwards if it attacks plastic. I really doubt AE told us to use a grease on a part it would attack. We've been using the AE black grease on plastics since forever and I've never seen one thing swell from black grease.
Wayne