137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-06-2014, 06:21 PM
#5387
I hate to beat a dead horse now but something is up with the shock shafts. Don't wanna call Kody Numdendahl and Predu liars but there's more than just tolerance differences going on here, there's a substantial difference between my FT B4.2's along with my SC10.2 shafts and my B5 shock shafts.
Why would AE call out the fact that the new shafts are 3mm in their write up as far as new features.
Everyone grab their calipers, because aside from what the digital read out is, when I lock em down on the 4.2's and SC10.2 shafts and move right over to my B5 they don't come close to sliding over the shaft.
Why would AE call out the fact that the new shafts are 3mm in their write up as far as new features.
Everyone grab their calipers, because aside from what the digital read out is, when I lock em down on the 4.2's and SC10.2 shafts and move right over to my B5 they don't come close to sliding over the shaft.
03-06-2014, 06:23 PM
#5388
cain, if your running on blown out outdoor 8th scale tracks, just get the RM. I dont think MM will be great on outdoor lower bite mixed traction tracks. Many people say the tuning window is small and with the track changing all the time, you might find yourself chasing setups. We have a local that runs an xfactory. When the track is just right he is very fast. When traction is wrong, he drops and entire lap and seems to hate his life. IMO, if your only planning to buy one car and race outdoors or on several tracks, go RM. If you run on a groomed and consistent indoor or outdoor sugar track, get mm. If you have money, get both
03-06-2014, 06:24 PM
#5389
you're gonna need a bigger boat (to ship more parts)
03-06-2014, 06:50 PM
#5391
03-06-2014, 07:10 PM
#5392
03-06-2014, 07:49 PM
#5393
Trust me we are doing our best to fulfill everyone's need for kits and parts.
Parts have been coming in almost non-stop since early January. The main problem is just the high demand, it's difficult to get caught up when everything is sold before it even arrives.
On the plus side the car seems to be very durable and I have seen very limited parts breakage compared to the B4.
Parts have been coming in almost non-stop since early January. The main problem is just the high demand, it's difficult to get caught up when everything is sold before it even arrives.
On the plus side the car seems to be very durable and I have seen very limited parts breakage compared to the B4.
Thanks Sean. I agree that the car is durable. I just get nervous now as I sold my 4.2, my track has nothing and nothing is available online. I saw 2 guys last night that had to park their Losi 22 2.0s because they are going through the same thing. Is there a date range on when we can expect parts to be back in stock on your site, or Amain?
03-06-2014, 08:18 PM
#5394
On the topic of setup, I cant get my head around ackerman. What the manual says compared to what Hudy says seems to be opposite. Unless I'm reading it wrong...
The manual says if u remove washers, the steering is less aggressive. Hudy says, if u do that, it quickens steering and car reacts faster, which I interpret as more aggressive?
The manual says if u remove washers, the steering is less aggressive. Hudy says, if u do that, it quickens steering and car reacts faster, which I interpret as more aggressive?
Wayne
i think the aggressive steering is nice. Coming from a MM22 with an Exotek steering rack, my B5 has a very smooth non aggressive character. If you want to drive a Twitchy SOB, run what I had. Damn! That being said, I am actually looking to add just a bit of twitch Wayne, should I try 1mm ackerman washer instead of 0?
03-06-2014, 08:19 PM
#5395
This is an answer to a PM......
Here was the question
Answer:
My track is generally medium to medium high.....almost never totally high grip...when it gets dry I'd sat medium low....in the video its medium-high
Overall the buggy does feel faster and it does NOT seem to have the on power push i couldn't get rid of in my RM......could be the weight bias could be the gull wing front arms...who knows. Its gonna take some time for me to know when i have a set up that works best for my driving style....but for just running it one night....I'm pretty stoked
Here was the question
Hi jason, just saw your post about the b5m vs the b5 rm. what type of traction is your track? Looks like medium to high bite?
What about he b5m do you like better other than the obvious that it's probably faster for you?
What about he b5m do you like better other than the obvious that it's probably faster for you?
My track is generally medium to medium high.....almost never totally high grip...when it gets dry I'd sat medium low....in the video its medium-high
Overall the buggy does feel faster and it does NOT seem to have the on power push i couldn't get rid of in my RM......could be the weight bias could be the gull wing front arms...who knows. Its gonna take some time for me to know when i have a set up that works best for my driving style....but for just running it one night....I'm pretty stoked
03-06-2014, 08:42 PM
#5397
Went to practice and dialed the b5 in a bit more. I ended up backing my setup out till I ended up at mostly the OCRC team starting setup with a slightly different piston/oil combo.
First thing I did was to go to green front / white rear springs. It was instantly better on high traction, but now the car was very over-responsive steering wise and very unpredictable. I immediately backed out the 2mm trailing axle as I was told by a local team driver that it was not worth it on our track, and it indeed made things better. It wasn't a total fix, honestly, and the car was a little more neutered steering wise mid corner now. I knew that adding some front droop would bring the steering back at mid corner, so I elected to directly go to the stroke/droop that the OCRC team setup used. This was money. I don't know if I'm 100% sold *all* of the droop, but it was better than what I had, and the car is super capable.
My gut tells me I may remove .5mm of droop from all four corners at most for fine tuning, the rear being the most likely. Did some heads up racing with a friend and the car felt really good. Looking forward to fine tuning during club racing.
At this point I'm on the OCRC team setup with 32fr/27r oil with 3x1.4 pistons.
Wayne
First thing I did was to go to green front / white rear springs. It was instantly better on high traction, but now the car was very over-responsive steering wise and very unpredictable. I immediately backed out the 2mm trailing axle as I was told by a local team driver that it was not worth it on our track, and it indeed made things better. It wasn't a total fix, honestly, and the car was a little more neutered steering wise mid corner now. I knew that adding some front droop would bring the steering back at mid corner, so I elected to directly go to the stroke/droop that the OCRC team setup used. This was money. I don't know if I'm 100% sold *all* of the droop, but it was better than what I had, and the car is super capable.
My gut tells me I may remove .5mm of droop from all four corners at most for fine tuning, the rear being the most likely. Did some heads up racing with a friend and the car felt really good. Looking forward to fine tuning during club racing.
At this point I'm on the OCRC team setup with 32fr/27r oil with 3x1.4 pistons.
Wayne
03-06-2014, 08:47 PM
#5398
Tech Regular
Whatever ackerman adjustment makes the tires more parallel at full lock gives more aggressive steering. Less parallel at full lock is smoother and less aggressive. The problem is that some racks are way forward of the spindle arms where as some are parallel or slightly behind. The steering turnbuckles are swept toward the front of the car vs toward the rear of the car as they head to the steering rack and bellcrank. Because of that difference, moving the link forward or backward is NOT THE SAME between different steering box designs. Add or remove washers and note the difference. More parallel at full lock == more steering.
Wayne
I think you have the wrong front tires.
Wayne
I think you have the wrong front tires.
03-06-2014, 10:00 PM
#5399
will the lunsford turnbuckles from the b4.2 work on the b5m?
03-06-2014, 10:13 PM
#5400
