54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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06-19-2014, 07:00 AM
#5356
I noticed some resistance with my alum shock caps also. But I didnt use the included button head screws. Button head screws are sh$t. There is not much material for the tool to bite into. I ordered protek 2x4mm cap head screws for my shock caps. They worked great.
So I ran my B5 and B5M back to back in qualifiers tonight. My lap times with within hundredths between the 2 cars. I did some tuning to my MM car and it lands jumps much better now. But even though the lap times were the same, I am favoring the RM car for now. Cooler motor temps in 17.5, plusher jumping and less twitchy in the air. I have found that I like the jumping of the RM car much better. The MM car is just so sensitive in the air. We currently have a sweeping turn with a couple areas where the car gets off the ground. And I really had to check up with the MM car in that section. On the up side, its super easy to "whip" the car, lol. I will continue to practice with and tune the MM car, but for now I will be racing my RM car in stock and practicing with the MM car.
Also, I finally broke a part that was not from hitting a wall, lol. The front tower cracked. I noticed the super flexy tower when cleaning the car between rounds. Number one reason to clean the car, you find broken crap you might not have otherwise noticed. Also, these ball cups, suck suck suck. Please dont tell me how your are perfect. I have built a few of the cars and they are all crap. Sure if I polish everything its better. Check the picture to see the awesomeness of my cups, lol.
So I ran my B5 and B5M back to back in qualifiers tonight. My lap times with within hundredths between the 2 cars. I did some tuning to my MM car and it lands jumps much better now. But even though the lap times were the same, I am favoring the RM car for now. Cooler motor temps in 17.5, plusher jumping and less twitchy in the air. I have found that I like the jumping of the RM car much better. The MM car is just so sensitive in the air. We currently have a sweeping turn with a couple areas where the car gets off the ground. And I really had to check up with the MM car in that section. On the up side, its super easy to "whip" the car, lol. I will continue to practice with and tune the MM car, but for now I will be racing my RM car in stock and practicing with the MM car.
Also, I finally broke a part that was not from hitting a wall, lol. The front tower cracked. I noticed the super flexy tower when cleaning the car between rounds. Number one reason to clean the car, you find broken crap you might not have otherwise noticed. Also, these ball cups, suck suck suck. Please dont tell me how your are perfect. I have built a few of the cars and they are all crap. Sure if I polish everything its better. Check the picture to see the awesomeness of my cups, lol.
Personally I prefer the mid motor myself even though I only have one race on it so far. Converting it to oval right now, thats gonna be fun!
06-19-2014, 07:07 AM
#5357
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that's not due to "bad" ball cups. You have another issue like binding hinge pins or something. On both of my B5's the ball cups have been the best I have worked with so far! I noticed that the front hinge pins need to be pushed in until they "click" in. Then they are free. Work with them a bit unless yours are bent?
Personally I prefer the mid motor myself even though I only have one race on it so far. Converting it to oval right now, thats gonna be fun!
Personally I prefer the mid motor myself even though I only have one race on it so far. Converting it to oval right now, thats gonna be fun!
I checked the pins, they are fine. Some of the bind is in the arms. I have noticed that my hard arms are way more free than the plastic ones. But you can feel the binding in the cups. I showed another driver and his eye widened in amazement at how tight they are. My RM car the cups are pretty free, but i spent time amount of time getting them that way. I probably can make them better with some effort polishing, it just pisses me off that I need to work so hard on the balls. I just picked up some lunsfords and I will be replacing all of the caps. I will probably take the time to polish the balls also, meh.
06-19-2014, 07:17 AM
#5358
[QUOTE=kindnuguz;13346184]
I will tell you in a few days when I get them on my B5M..
I bought everything except the front PIN holder and Shock mounts.. (Already had AE FT ones)
When I looked at the rear hub they are selling and saw that you can use the stock inserts and the front caster blocks as well, I had to grab them.
Low quality or not they beat anything AE FT is selling. The rear hub AE is selling does not allow you to use the stock insert.. not to mention $45?
Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps..
Kindnuguz
Actually the other cap is still ok right ?
You stripped other one , sounds like anyway.
Cross threaded ?
Maybe just used a worn out driver or even used the wrong screw ..
Don't blame Ae for your poor wrenching ability's.
Nothing wrong with the Ae cap, plastic or alloy...
I will tell you in a few days when I get them on my B5M..
I bought everything except the front PIN holder and Shock mounts.. (Already had AE FT ones)
When I looked at the rear hub they are selling and saw that you can use the stock inserts and the front caster blocks as well, I had to grab them.
Low quality or not they beat anything AE FT is selling. The rear hub AE is selling does not allow you to use the stock insert.. not to mention $45?
Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps..
Kindnuguz
Actually the other cap is still ok right ?
You stripped other one , sounds like anyway.
Cross threaded ?
Maybe just used a worn out driver or even used the wrong screw ..
Don't blame Ae for your poor wrenching ability's.
Nothing wrong with the Ae cap, plastic or alloy...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-19-2014 at 07:42 AM.
06-19-2014, 07:19 AM
#5359
I bought the Lunsford 2 weeks ago and went ahead and spent the 6 bucks and got all new cups. Now thew are waaaaayyyyy better and I didn't polish at all
06-19-2014, 07:30 AM
#5361
Did you ever get your MM car sorted out last night? Mine was pretty good. I actually got my A Main qualifying run with the MM car. But I ran my RM car in the main. It felt better, and I was not so sure about running my 17.5 for 7 minutes in the A. I am still at 1640+ grams and didnt want to risk blowing up the motor. As it was, my RM car came off at 155 on the motor.
06-19-2014, 07:39 AM
#5362
Tech Apprentice
No I 100% did... guy at the shop said it just simply wasn't tight enough... He said that the spring should be fully compressed to have a correctly set diff.... but as stated above - the sticky at the top of this forum suggests way otherwise.
06-19-2014, 07:51 AM
#5363
I normally ignore most of what Cherry says, but a few weeks ago, he said to put on a cup without the rod and see how free they are. So I figured why not. I put a new cup over the ball without ever having used a tie rod on the cup. It was sticky as all get out. I am not saying yours are not smooth, but my experience has been the opposite.
Did you ever get your MM car sorted out last night? Mine was pretty good. I actually got my A Main qualifying run with the MM car. But I ran my RM car in the main. It felt better, and I was not so sure about running my 17.5 for 7 minutes in the A. I am still at 1640+ grams and didnt want to risk blowing up the motor. As it was, my RM car came off at 155 on the motor.
Did you ever get your MM car sorted out last night? Mine was pretty good. I actually got my A Main qualifying run with the MM car. But I ran my RM car in the main. It felt better, and I was not so sure about running my 17.5 for 7 minutes in the A. I am still at 1640+ grams and didnt want to risk blowing up the motor. As it was, my RM car came off at 155 on the motor.
06-19-2014, 08:12 AM
#5364
Fact:
Anyone that uses the Lunsford Ti rods or the shorter Ae Ti rods & not the kits Ti rods ?
"SMoooth ball cups" is the song I hear them singing..
Hope the defect guys can get the tune out of their heads.
Its really catchy...LoL
Anyone that uses the Lunsford Ti rods or the shorter Ae Ti rods & not the kits Ti rods ?
"SMoooth ball cups" is the song I hear them singing..
Hope the defect guys can get the tune out of their heads.
Its really catchy...LoL
06-19-2014, 08:14 AM
#5365
Tom Ancona
dad needs more prayer because he was in a wreck and the Doctor found 2 more tumors in his brain but the dr said with radiation they should be able to get it all. From the wreck Tommy is good. Tumors are making his eyes bad and he is not walking good. So pray for him he said thank you for all the prayers before and now
no rc but I got this to deal with and b5 is on the back brunner
dad needs more prayer because he was in a wreck and the Doctor found 2 more tumors in his brain but the dr said with radiation they should be able to get it all. From the wreck Tommy is good. Tumors are making his eyes bad and he is not walking good. So pray for him he said thank you for all the prayers before and now
no rc but I got this to deal with and b5 is on the back brunner
06-19-2014, 09:00 AM
#5366
I actually do ignore a lot of what wc says myself...but he was right on the 2" tie rods...they are too long. However, the Lunsford kit they sell are too short...so I did the leg work for those that care about strength and looks. The Lunsford 1 7/8" ones are perfect for the front and rear camber locations. And the 2'' made by anyone is perfect for your steering. They only bury just to the tapered portion of the rod...so they will NOT distort the ball stud end of the cups when you clip pipes and barrel roll.
06-19-2014, 09:08 AM
#5367
I actually do ignore a lot of what wc says myself...but he was right on the 2" tie rods...they are too long. However, the Lunsford kit they sell are too short...so I did the leg work for those that care about strength and looks. The Lunsford 1 7/8" ones are perfect for the front and rear camber locations. And the 2'' made by anyone is perfect for your steering. They only bury just to the tapered portion of the rod...so they will NOT distort the ball stud end of the cups when you clip pipes and barrel roll.
Last time I chucked up my stud in a drill and use 800 grit to smooth them out as I ran the drill at low speeds. The problem is...even though I didnt crank on the chuck and tried my best to be gentle, the threads on the studs flattened a little. Not really an issue going into plastic mounts, but i picked up an alum rear camber mount for my MM car and kinda want to keep the treads on the studs pristine. I thought about using fuel tubing over the threads. Any other ideas?
06-19-2014, 09:19 AM
#5368
buy a cheap tap set and some round aluminum stock and drill and tap a hole to thread your ball studs into. Might sound complicated but in fact it is very cheap and easy to do. Also tap and die sets come in handy all the time. I can look to see if I have anymore round stock I could even do it for you and bring it to the track
06-19-2014, 09:20 AM
#5369
No one needs to polish anything...some of the cups can be slightly distorted (out of round) right from the parts tree they are molded on. A slight squeeze on the sides (with pliers) of the ball stud hole on the cup will free them right up, whether there is a ball stud in the cup or not.
06-19-2014, 09:24 AM
#5370
No one needs to polish anything...some of the cups can be slightly distorted (out of round) right from the parts tree they are molded on. A slight squeeze on the sides (with pliers) of the ball stud hole on the cup will free them right up, whether there is a ball stud in the cup or not.