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Old 06-18-2014, 12:15 PM   #5341
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Are there any pictures of the new layout and this monster jump? Maybe Anthony has a video up somewhere?
as big it is ?

Have a 2 ft landing ramp & a hard left upon landing.

Not many can do 24 times in a row..
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:34 PM   #5342
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Are there any pictures of the new layout and this monster jump? Maybe Anthony has a video up somewhere?
GTI There is two videos on page 1659 in TRCR forum
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:56 PM   #5343
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GTI There is two videos on page 1659 in TRCR forum
Thanks Ridge! Looks like a fun (and narrow!) track. Was interesting to watch Tanner drive his MM car as it seemed to drive very "square", almost like a RM.

Last edited by gticlay; 06-18-2014 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:37 PM   #5344
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Two questions - I seem to remember seeing that the RB6 stock body fits well on the B5M. Does it fit good enough to velcro on or ??

Also, have you guys seen these nice looking aluminum parts? They have an aluminum version of the plastic rear hub, the rear camber piece, shock bushings, front hinge pin holder without the annoying holes in the front, etc. Prices seem good too. http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...egory&path=117
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:41 PM   #5345
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In general. The STRC stuff is of low quality. Kinda like the integy stuff.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:06 PM   #5346
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In general. The STRC stuff is of low quality. Kinda like the integy stuff.
So a rear camber mount would be OK while a bulkhead might not be?
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:12 PM   #5347
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So a rear camber mount would be OK while a bulkhead might not be?
huh? I would not currently buy any of their stuff. The car does not seem to need extra aluminum anywhere aside from the camber block (whatever AE calls it). And I picked up the AE one. I pretty much hoped that the AE aluminum is of higher grade than the STRC stuff. I see no reason for the alum pin brace and bulkhead. If you want to bling up the car and dont want to spend much, the STRC is cost effective.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:40 PM   #5348
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So a rear camber mount would be OK while a bulkhead might not be?
That thing may never break but it does bend after a few hard landings.

Stick with the plastic.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:48 PM   #5349
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How much rebound do you usually want?

I have heard anywhere from 0-30mm
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:38 PM   #5350
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As i suspected, my diff wasn't tightened enough so the t lock nut wasn't far enough down... even though it felt as described by the guide up above.... or does that not apply to the B5?
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:02 PM   #5351
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Hello all,

I am new here and am currently building my first RC10. Im having a blast and can't wait to drive it but I ran into a problem last night when getting the rear turnbuckles installed, the left rear arm binds up when it move it upwards. It appears as though the CVA is running into the thrust T nut on the diff... But I am concerned about over tightening my diff as I seemed to have gotten it set correctly per the sticky on the top of the forum.

According to the manual I should be able to tighten it "until the spring is fully compressed" which should resolve my issue, but I don't want to damage the diff balls. Anyone else run into this issue? And suggestions? I considered sanding down the t nut as well.
i remember thinking this when i was doing my build.. after your build is done break in the diff and then check the clearance, it should be fine once the diff is tight and broke in.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:32 AM   #5352
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hi,

i have seen these photos and i really like them , all pics are stunning and beautiful i have saved them and added them to my gallery i must say that keep on sharing these kind of pics and information.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:49 AM   #5353
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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Two questions - I seem to remember seeing that the RB6 stock body fits well on the B5M. Does it fit good enough to velcro on or ??

Also, have you guys seen these nice looking aluminum parts? They have an aluminum version of the plastic rear hub, the rear camber piece, shock bushings, front hinge pin holder without the annoying holes in the front, etc. Prices seem good too.
I will tell you in a few days when I get them on my B5M..
I bought everything except the front PIN holder and Shock mounts.. (Already had AE FT ones)

When I looked at the rear hub they are selling and saw that you can use the stock inserts and the front caster blocks as well, I had to grab them.

Low quality or not they beat anything AE FT is selling. The rear hub AE is selling does not allow you to use the stock insert.. not to mention $45?

Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps..

So AE's aluminum and their CC machine isn't any better in my opinion.
I'm just glad these people actually made parts for the B5/M..
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:48 AM   #5354
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As i suspected, my diff wasn't tightened enough so the t lock nut wasn't far enough down... even though it felt as described by the guide up above.... or does that not apply to the B5?

This makes it sound like you did not compress the diff spring before assembling.
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Old 06-19-2014, 06:54 AM   #5355
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I will tell you in a few days when I get them on my B5M..
I bought everything except the front PIN holder and Shock mounts.. (Already had AE FT ones)

When I looked at the rear hub they are selling and saw that you can use the stock inserts and the front caster blocks as well, I had to grab them.

Low quality or not they beat anything AE FT is selling. The rear hub AE is selling does not allow you to use the stock insert.. not to mention $45?

Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps..

So AE's aluminum and their CC machine isn't any better in my opinion.
I'm just glad these people actually made parts for the B5/M..
I noticed some resistance with my alum shock caps also. But I didnt use the included button head screws. Button head screws are sh$t. There is not much material for the tool to bite into. I ordered protek 2x4mm cap head screws for my shock caps. They worked great.

So I ran my B5 and B5M back to back in qualifiers tonight. My lap times with within hundredths between the 2 cars. I did some tuning to my MM car and it lands jumps much better now. But even though the lap times were the same, I am favoring the RM car for now. Cooler motor temps in 17.5, plusher jumping and less twitchy in the air. I have found that I like the jumping of the RM car much better. The MM car is just so sensitive in the air. We currently have a sweeping turn with a couple areas where the car gets off the ground. And I really had to check up with the MM car in that section. On the up side, its super easy to "whip" the car, lol. I will continue to practice with and tune the MM car, but for now I will be racing my RM car in stock and practicing with the MM car.

Also, I finally broke a part that was not from hitting a wall, lol. The front tower cracked. I noticed the super flexy tower when cleaning the car between rounds. Number one reason to clean the car, you find broken crap you might not have otherwise noticed. Also, these ball cups, suck suck suck. Please dont tell me how your are perfect. I have built a few of the cars and they are all crap. Sure if I polish everything its better. Check the picture to see the awesomeness of my cups, lol.
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