R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Like Tree7Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-02-2014, 07:48 PM   #4996
Tech Addict
 
Adamska27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The land of cheese and beer
Posts: 719
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I'm still figuring the car out, and have only scanned the past couple dozen pages to try to get caught up, but here's where I'm at

Med to high traction (of course) 1.6 flats machined 30-35 depending on factors, greys front whites rear, I tried zero anti squat, my thinking that I could use a little squat with this thing, but I still went back to 1 deg of anti squat and was happy. Usually 2.5 toe, sometimes 3 never 3.5 but I run stock. If you can't drive it with the back end I don't think the mid motor is for you. Shorty back, cut the fore two braces, mainly to giver just a touch of twist and liked that, but my suspension is all carbon. I hate deflection in the towers and arms and knuckles and such. The "good plastic" seems to be a touch heavier, IMO worth it, but only leading to more weight savings to find elsewhere. Shorty servo, does anyone use the futaba shorty servo and how do you like it???? I got the spektrum shorty in there and it's only OK. Front shocks Mid up, out down, rear shocks middle top inside bottom, Inside inside on the front links, with 1mm, kit rear link with 2mm. Proline Ions, MC, Phantom body with Proline wing, 3mm trailing with 1mm on the rack. I never post gearing and timing because I mess with it so much, and you can always ask me at the track and I'll tell you, but it's hardly the same until I have had a car for a long time. When I don't mess up my tyre prep this thing was ridiculous fast. This setup really made the car work for me, and I finally fell in love with it. This car is just stupid fun to drive when it handles right, but I hated it in the face for like 5 or 6 weeks while I worked on figuring it out.

So those are my current thoughts on the car, hopefully useful to the group

One question and sorry if I'm just out of the loop, but no currently available name brand type carbon fiber chassis is available yet, correct?? I really think that's what this car needs to come fully alive, the firm, predictable stable twist of carbon, aluminum thick enough not to twist is just to thick to make a chassis out of, and even with all the braces it twists, and it needs to, just a little to take the nervousness out. This is exactly the time for carbon fiber, hopefully with a stiff and soft option even if we're lucky, but I can't find anything other than some prototypes and handbuilt, right???
Adamska27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 07:49 PM   #4997
Tech Elite
 
vr6cj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 4,052
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

a thread on the anti squat

Can someone explain anti-squat a bit to me
vr6cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 08:00 PM   #4998
Tech Regular
 
Rybeau40's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 289
Default

For RM many run 2-2.5 anti-squat and for MM 0-1 is generally the better tuning option. It's how I tuned my rm/mm convertible 22 2.0 with great results. Now that I'm switching to a b5m with no compromises I assume the same tuning applies. The link posted above is a great read for how anti-squat works.

The key that many locals and racers on here have learned is that tuning an mm setup is much different than rm. It's more of a finesse feel vs. rm aggressive feel. Hard for me to explain, but it's how I personally think of the differences. I'm still learning it after years of rm. With my B5m due tomorrow, I'll be learning with a new platform how mm works.
__________________
Kyosho Lazer ZX-6R 10.1 Orion pro, Spektrum 6040
Team Associated B5M, Hitec servo Mod class, 10.0 Orion
Futaba 4PLS
Support your LHS.
Sponsored by my wife who gives me no grief
Rybeau40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 09:48 PM   #4999
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Not really that complicated, common sense really.

If you know the track has change ?
Adjust the car to allow for the change.

Most do not and suffer...

Go figure...

However, does take time to learn how to drive a mid .

The old point & shoot style of driving is history.
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 10:28 PM   #5000
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
Send a message via AIM to slappomatt
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
My b5m geared 72/33 with a 17.5 reedy sonic with 43* timing never goes above 160 degrees. The car is at 1562g rtr. With my 7.5 78/21 I never go above 130. No heat problems at all for me. People that run 69/32 run into heat issues.
I am running a reedy mach 1 17.5 with 33/69 and 42degrees and I came off the track at 150 after a full 10 min of laps.
slappomatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #5001
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
When the outside ribs start wearing off your favorite front tires do you keep running them as is, cut the ribs off, or toss em? Proline says the ribs are there to reduce the aggressiveness of them and I've run fronts with the ribs gone before but wondering what you guys do. Scrubs or barcodes are a good example.
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.

New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.

Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.

Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.

Tip

I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 08:39 AM   #5002
Tech Regular
 
Rybeau40's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 289
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.

New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.

Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.

Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.

Tip

I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
Can't disagree more; 4wd doesn't take more ability, it takes an adjustment in driving going back and forth between the two. 2wd requires more finger control and tuning.
__________________
Kyosho Lazer ZX-6R 10.1 Orion pro, Spektrum 6040
Team Associated B5M, Hitec servo Mod class, 10.0 Orion
Futaba 4PLS
Support your LHS.
Sponsored by my wife who gives me no grief
Rybeau40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 08:57 AM   #5003
Tech Elite
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 4,819
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
When the outside ribs start wearing off your favorite front tires do you keep running them as is, cut the ribs off, or toss em? Proline says the ribs are there to reduce the aggressiveness of them and I've run fronts with the ribs gone before but wondering what you guys do. Scrubs or barcodes are a good example.
Personally I dislike the outside rib for my application which is high bite indoor action. It may be alright for a dustier surfaces but for my application the outside rib (both edges) deflects the tire costing me time in the corners. So generally I remove it or prepare not to win until it wears down.
__________________
Mason McCombs
NewRed Hobbies & Indoor Facility
Off-Road, Dirt Oval, Crawlers & Pullers
Mason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:06 AM   #5004
Tech Elite
 
T-BirdJunkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Posts: 2,973
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to T-BirdJunkie Send a message via MSN to T-BirdJunkie
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
get use to , mid motor takes time .

Also mid hates heavy braking.

Practice to be smoother entering corners and smoother on throttle .

Personally run about 15% softer brake then if using a rear motor .
Good to know, and that's the number I arrived at vs with my B4.2 as far as EPA on the brake side of my radio.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster View Post
tbird.... on the brakes you want just enough to slow the car quickly.. not lock up the back.. the whole idea is to carry your corner speed.. that's were races are won.. if you figure there are 8-12 corners on a typical offroad track.. if you can gain even 1/4 a second a corner then your 2-3 seconds a lap faster!!!! Huge difference.

also be careful if your running the stock slipper as if you run it to loose the metal disc between the pads will get to hot and cause the discs to swell and the slipper becomes inconsistent and make your car start feeling looser about halfway thru the race.

the vented vs slipper discs from associated are way lighter and much more consistant.. easy and inexpensive switch.
Thanks for the slipper info. I never felt "right" with the VTS slipper on the 4.2...my DEX210's stock slipper actually felt better.
I just felt like the car wasn't braking hard enough after the straight; again, it was a loose outdoor track, so YMMV. With the brakes set up for my B4.2 (and everything else in the speedo the same), it was fine everywhere else on the track, but the end of the straight going into the 180 it got loose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
Why get used to a bad setup?

Replace that 4 gear with a 3 gear and put the weight where it needs to be to generate enough grip and all your problems will be solved!
Yes, because the motor isn't already DIRECTLY next to the diff...3 v 4 gear isn't going to help move the motor back. This motor already sits plenty far back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
I got up early this morning to try out my new Wolfpack shorty and a little different setup. I really do like how it drives with the shorty but honestly, I'm still not happy with it - the car is still difficult to drive. Man, my B5RM had so much traction coming on to the straight that it could do wheelies sometimes. B5M, not so much. I actually went so far as to put .5 toe in out back. It's worst coming on to the straight and when off power coasting into sharp turns. Starting to wonder if the MM just isn't for me. The 4wd car on the other hand was a really treat to drive today! I just can't get enough of driving that car!
I'm running a ThunderPower 65c 3800mah shorty in my B5, and the car is super easy to drive. It even has a little push on corner exit. It's got so much rear grip it's not even funny with the box stock setup. What's your setup like? I wouldn't mind making the car a little more aggressive.
__________________
If you don't allow yourself to make mistakes, you'll never allow yourself to succeed
T-BirdJunkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:15 AM   #5005
Tech Master
 
3srcracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,751
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

How much do the stock axles weigh?

The Lunsford titanium are 5.5 grams.
3srcracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:15 AM   #5006
Tech Elite
 
gticlay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,037
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.

New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.

Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.

Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.

Tip

I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
I've been practicing with my 4wd a lot - a pack on each car every time I go. I'll eventually try the inline mod but it's quite a bit of work to do. Sounds like it's worth the effort though.

Curious - how is the 2.4 wheel doing there? Are people still cutting up barcodes to fit on the AKA rims or what? I was thinking that by next winter, 2.2 will be all but dead like when we moved from 2.0's way back when.
gticlay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:24 AM   #5007
Tech Regular
 
Rybeau40's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 289
Default

So, coming from a tlr buggy, I assume I can't use the rims/tires from it? I do have the front axle/clamp setup ready for install, but can't find the rear in stock anywhere. Does this mean I can use my DE racing rims from my losi on the front, but not the rear ones yet?
__________________
Kyosho Lazer ZX-6R 10.1 Orion pro, Spektrum 6040
Team Associated B5M, Hitec servo Mod class, 10.0 Orion
Futaba 4PLS
Support your LHS.
Sponsored by my wife who gives me no grief
Rybeau40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:27 AM   #5008
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

not into debating which is to drive Ryeau
My reason for such a statement
#1 4w requires far more throttle control because you can't just lift power & glide flat on landings. Lift power all the way & expect a big nose dive with 4w. Driver needs to hold more on power throttle in the corner as well.

#2
2w has far better suspension & can land harder with no slap.

4w has to be landed on every down hill ramp off the jumps and has to be driven smoother.

A wheeler is a must have tool in any pit box .

GTI

still using the AKA rim & Jc tire.
Better when traction comes up .
also still using Jc with standard rim when traction is down, both perform well.

Best part about the
combination is you can get a second life out of the AKA insert by trimming off the inside bars .
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-03-2014 at 09:56 AM.
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:28 AM   #5009
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,912
Trader Rating: 80 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
So, coming from a tlr buggy, I assume I can't use the rims/tires from it? I do have the front axle/clamp setup ready for install, but can't find the rear in stock anywhere. Does this mean I can use my DE racing rims from my losi on the front, but not the rear ones yet?
huh? the rear "should" work fine. I use tlr 22 rears on my b5. The fronts have a completely different off set. Your car will be narrow in the front.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2014, 09:58 AM   #5010
Tech Master
 
RC10Nick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,297
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie View Post
Yes, because the motor isn't already DIRECTLY next to the diff...3 v 4 gear isn't going to help move the motor back. This motor already sits plenty far back.
3 vs 4 gear has absolutely nothing to do with motor placement. It changes how the torque of the motor is applied to the chassis. That's all.
__________________
JT RC Products
https://www.facebook.com/JTRCProducts/
RC10Nick is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:22 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net