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Old 05-29-2014, 09:13 AM   #4831
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I had that problem with 2" turnbuckles (stock or B4 or JC 'buckles) so I would guess that's what you are using. Get the shorter one like the Lunsford set and you won't have tight cups. You'll probably need to get a fresh set of ends now.
I dont buy into WC's logic. I do understand that if the rod presses on the ball cup, it can cause binding. So....When I bought my Turnbuckles, I dodnt get the 2" ones. I got the 1 3/4 ones. I bought 6 of the lunsfords from my LHS. They were in bulk, so I could pick and choose. They still bind up. IMO, the effort is too great on the cups to make them good. Not saying you cant, because you can. Just not worth it to me.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:39 AM   #4832
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I had that problem with 2" turnbuckles (stock or B4 or JC 'buckles) so I would guess that's what you are using. Get the shorter one like the Lunsford set and you won't have tight cups. You'll probably need to get a fresh set of ends now.
You can prove the ball cups are not the problem .
Just pop a ball cup on a stud with out the Ti rod.
Will be smooth as butter.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:42 AM   #4833
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happy day I will get my Lunsford ti front axal in the mail. pay day I get my motor a fantom apex 17.5 works motor.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:07 AM   #4834
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The tight ball cup problem is a known problem and has been fixed by many local drivers. Are local Associated driver told us to take the ball cup off the ball stud and polish the ball stud with scotch brite. (might get a few trails and errors to get the desired smoothness). When you pop them on get some needle nose and squeeze the ball cup back and forth (WHEN popped on). This should free up the car and in most case make your car handle better because the suspension was being bound up.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:08 AM   #4835
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i just polished my ball studs and cups together with toothpaste and used associated 50wt shock oil on threads when assembling and they are mint now.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:15 AM   #4836
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The tight ball cup problem is a known problem and has been fixed by many local drivers. Are local Associated driver told us to take the ball cup off the ball stud and polish the ball stud with scotch brite. (might get a few trails and errors to get the desired smoothness). When you pop them on get some needle nose and squeeze the ball cup back and forth (WHEN popped on). This should free up the car and in most case make your car handle better because the suspension was being bound up.
yes, all of this does help. I polished mine with 8 grit and the stud chucked up in my drill. And initially it was really smooth. But it has since tightened up again. I am sure with more time, it will be good. But... I broke a cup racing a couple weeks ago. And needed to replace the stud also. No biggies, but I think you need to polish all of your spare studs ahead of time, lol. because I was bound up again and it was bad. This is why I am going to just get the TLR caps/balls. Readily available, are always smooth and free and they are plenty strong. Sure I have to pop them off to adjust my links, but in all honest, now that I have a setup i like, that will be a very rare occasion. And I have been popping off cups since 86'. I think I can handle it, lol
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:42 AM   #4837
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I dont buy into WC's logic. I do understand that if the rod presses on the ball cup, it can cause binding. So....When I bought my Turnbuckles, I dodnt get the 2" ones. I got the 1 3/4 ones. I bought 6 of the lunsfords from my LHS. They were in bulk, so I could pick and choose. They still bind up. IMO, the effort is too great on the cups to make them good. Not saying you cant, because you can. Just not worth it to me.

First - did you put new ends on when going to the shorties? I really, really like the regular TLR ends and especially the TLR HD ends. You have to use the thicker turnbuckles with them but they are sweet if you drill a hole for the driver so there's no need to pop them off. That being said, I can only relay my experience to you - I tried the stock 2" turnbuckles first while I waited for ti ones. They bound and were tight. Then I put the shorter turnbuckles on the same ends and they still bound (I figured distorted from the long turnbuckles). Then I put new ends on and they were buttery smooth without any other change. Then I built a B5M with the shorter turnbuckles and they were buttery smooth. Until you, I haven't heard of another person going to the shorter 'buckles and new ends having a binding issue.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:44 AM   #4838
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Problem I see occurring with others is they have a couple two or three tight ball cups right ?

They thread one ball cup a little further then the other . Only have to go three turns more then the other and when they adjust the rod it bottoms out against the cup making a bump inside the cup causing the cup to bind.

Got a tight ball cup ?

You will find a little bump inside that ball cup....replace for a new one.
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:06 AM   #4839
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First - did you put new ends on when going to the shorties? I really, really like the regular TLR ends and especially the TLR HD ends. You have to use the thicker turnbuckles with them but they are sweet if you drill a hole for the driver so there's no need to pop them off. That being said, I can only relay my experience to you - I tried the stock 2" turnbuckles first while I waited for ti ones. They bound and were tight. Then I put the shorter turnbuckles on the same ends and they still bound (I figured distorted from the long turnbuckles). Then I put new ends on and they were buttery smooth without any other change. Then I built a B5M with the shorter turnbuckles and they were buttery smooth. Until you, I haven't heard of another person going to the shorter 'buckles and new ends having a binding issue.
I never used the 2" rods. I started with the 1 3/4 lunsfords. I have some new and never used ends. The steering link from the servo binds up pretty good also and it does not have a tie rod. and I polished the balls and pinched the cups. I am not really hating, as i love the car. But the squeaking from the binding cups is driving me nuts when I and checking ride height, lol. Yeah, the HD cups and ends would be nice. The tlr rods are too long. I think you would need the super duty lunsfords of the correct length.
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:50 AM   #4840
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I never used the 2" rods. I started with the 1 3/4 lunsfords. I have some new and never used ends. The steering link from the servo binds up pretty good also and it does not have a tie rod. and I polished the balls and pinched the cups. I am not really hating, as i love the car. But the squeaking from the binding cups is driving me nuts when I and checking ride height, lol. Yeah, the HD cups and ends would be nice. The tlr rods are too long. I think you would need the super duty lunsfords of the correct length.
If mine somehow start to bind, I'll go with the TLR HD as well. But they haven't yet...
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:54 AM   #4841
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I had that problem with 2" turnbuckles (stock or B4 or JC 'buckles) so I would guess that's what you are using. Get the shorter one like the Lunsford set and you won't have tight cups. You'll probably need to get a fresh set of ends now.
Indeed I have the stock B4 lightweight on there for durability... will get shorter ones and new cups! Thanks everyone for your support!
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:24 PM   #4842
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how come nobody here is talking about the newly released hobbyking's turningy square packs..... they sound so good and is so cheap?! ($60) Now people would be torn apart between turningy AND smc square packs because they cost the same...!?
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:30 PM   #4843
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I wont be torn apart. I have used the turnigy packs, they are ok. But they are really coming up in price, soo...I would buy from US companies like SMC and ProMatch. If you tell me how well made the turnigy packs are, I will just laugh.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:35 PM   #4844
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how come nobody here is talking about the newly released hobbyking's turningy square packs..... they sound so good and is so cheap?! ($60) Now people would be torn apart between turningy AND smc square packs because they cost the same...!?
If the Turnigy was $20 or even $25 I might give it a try but they seem to lose punch much quicker than other brands. SMC and Promatch are close in price and will be a much better long term pack for you.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:36 PM   #4845
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http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=51842

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