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Old 05-28-2014, 10:22 PM   #4816
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I bet the hard hubs wouldn't do that.
You're probably right. With the hard hubs the whole top f the hub would just snap off.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:37 PM   #4817
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You're probably right. With the hard hubs the whole top f the hub would just snap off.
i just use an old .030 ballstud washer on plastic side, but also i use a 10mm ballstud and i put a 3mm locnut on the aluminum side.

i actually got 12mm ballstuds for on the ubrace to use a locnut on the bottom and moved the stock ubrace ballstud to the hub, extra security
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:10 PM   #4818
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For me first shot is battery, going to move forward about 1-2 sm pads to deal with all the weight I took out of the back. Next will be 1 down on rear springs if that doesn't do it. Saving oils for last as I think I'm already a bit on the thin side

Several others running as light or even lighter than I am at ocrc, so also going to take a look around for comparison sake tomorrow.

Ah the fun of trying to tune a new car.
Just a follow up - got my car to the point where the rest is likely all driver .

Used the Cactus setup for the base, started by moving battery forward 1 small pad, helped front grip but lost the rear a bit. Next went down 1 spring in the rear, better but not quite there. Moved rear hubs forward, slightly better. Decided to try B5 rear arms flipped and hubs back to center to get the +2mm forward setting - money.

Im running light (~1530) and using the Hartson style inline setup. Running AKA ions, closed cell - worn/sauced.

OCRC was good grip tonight, and I shaved 1+ seconds off my fast lap vs. B4.2 on same track (granted, I wasnt ever very happy with how the car felt - so take this for what it is), So far, Im loving the B5M. The rest is all me and now its time to learn to control my trigger finger and learn to trust the car a bit more.
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Last edited by HBRob; 05-28-2014 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:19 PM   #4819
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HBRob I have the 1.6 and 1.7 tapered with the 32.5 weight oil all around, White and Green springs. I used that at JBRL at OCRC but now put the pucks in and top shaft, so about 35 grams lighter, thinking of going to 30 weight oil front and 27.5 rear, dropping spring rates by one setting front and back and tune from that point.

Next race is outdoor at CCR, never been but yesterday in Exeter car was bouncy, track had some rough bumps and getting ready for a rebuild but need to lighten up and absorb a little more.

Running stock class so helps to be close to 1500 grams.
Very close to what I ended up at tonight. I have pucks, top shaft, 14g wire, hobbwing justock, shorty, etc, etc and am about 1530 fully loaded. I will likely play with lighter oil next week. I dropped my rear springs already (I am at white/green now) - maybe give them another bump next week. Someone on here recommended the B5 rear arms - for me they definitely helped the rear side traction. Running them now.
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:57 AM   #4820
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As for several others my ball cups are tight, and not freeing up after several weeks of running... did anyone try the SC10 4x4 cups, are they slightly bigger (although they should be nominally same right..)
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:13 AM   #4821
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What are some set up changes I can make to reduce initial steering? ie : ballstud washers . thnx
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:29 AM   #4822
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As for several others my ball cups are tight, and not freeing up after several weeks of running... did anyone try the SC10 4x4 cups, are they slightly bigger (although they should be nominally same right..)
The turnbuckles wont thread into the SC10 4x4 ball cups, the truck turnbuckles have larger threads. You can pinch the cup with pliers when it is on the ball and it will help a little...you could also try polishing the ball studs a little.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:37 AM   #4823
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Down to 1530g with pucks, lightweight top shaft, slipper eliminator and aluminum screw kit. Guess the next step is to remove some plastic from the cradle and shorten the wires a little like on Cherry's car.

Also looking forward to trying the arms from the rear motor.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:55 AM   #4824
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Anyone else broke this in this way yet?

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The turnbuckles wont thread into the SC10 4x4 ball cups, the truck turnbuckles have larger threads. You can pinch the cup with pliers when it is on the ball and it will help a little...you could also try polishing the ball studs a little.
lol, I didnt all of that. Someone even suggested chap sticking the balls, so I did that. At this point I give up. The rear once seem to break in ok..mostly because they get the piss beat out of them and stretched, But the front end ones start out smooth, then seem to tighten back up. Its getting old cleaning and reworking these things. I am going to just put some tlr 22 cups and studs on the car. I like the idea behind the AE cups, but man they keep getting so tight, that they will hold the arm up with the shock and tire off.


BTW Matt, I saw BK running stock last night. He was running the RM car, but said he plans to run both at the same weight and compare. I am curious as to what he finds for w3. I have not seem BK at the track much recently, it was good to see him out.
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:41 AM   #4825
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lol, I didnt all of that. Someone even suggested chap sticking the balls, so I did that. At this point I give up. The rear once seem to break in ok..mostly because they get the piss beat out of them and stretched, But the front end ones start out smooth, then seem to tighten back up. Its getting old cleaning and reworking these things. I am going to just put some tlr 22 cups and studs on the car. I like the idea behind the AE cups, but man they keep getting so tight, that they will hold the arm up with the shock and tire off.


BTW Matt, I saw BK running stock last night. He was running the RM car, but said he plans to run both at the same weight and compare. I am curious as to what he finds for w3. I have not seem BK at the track much recently, it was good to see him out.
He was at W3 last Sat

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Old 05-29-2014, 07:58 AM   #4826
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He was at W3 last Sat

Jason
Yeah, I wont be able to make saturdays for a months or so. Was he running stock on saturday?
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:03 AM   #4827
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As for several others my ball cups are tight, and not freeing up after several weeks of running... did anyone try the SC10 4x4 cups, are they slightly bigger (although they should be nominally same right..)
I find anyone who is using the Ae blue Ti rods will experience tight ball cups.

The ball studs & cups are not defected , instead the problem is cause by the Ti rods being too long.

Trim the rods or switch to a shorter rod..

All will be smooth after...
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:11 AM   #4828
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Default 3200 mah battery

considering since nearly 60 grams lighter than my 4600. other than run time, will I notice any significant loss of power on the 17.5 motor? Does mah spec relate to run time only or does it also affect overall power? or is C rating the spec that affects power? or is it a combo of mah and C rating that affects power?
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:26 AM   #4829
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considering since nearly 60 grams lighter than my 4600. other than run time, will I notice any significant loss of power on the 17.5 motor? Does mah spec relate to run time only or does it also affect overall power? or is C rating the spec that affects power? or is it a combo of mah and C rating that affects power?
c rating mean little to nothing. It is some fiction number created by companies it is not at all standardized. Please google if you want more reading. The 150gram packs...well, that depends. Mah, does help overall avg voltage. Which can be equated to punch. Will the 3000mah light shortys have less kick after 8 minutes than a 4800mah shorty. Well, yeah, its 2x the capacity. Of course it will. My old track we ran 10 minute mains. And you would definitely feel the loss on the longer jumps. My recent outdoor track, the jump are tiny and races are only 6 minutes. The 3000 would be plenty. My current track? Well, I would normally say the 3000 mah packs are too small, but there are a couple guys making them work. The Amain is 7 minutes with about 2 minutes of practice laps. I would probably skip the practice laps with that battery.


Now back to C ratings. I have tested several packs from several people. C ratings aside. It is all about the IR. Internal Resistance. Lower IR is more punchy and holds its power longer because less sag. I have measured my packs and when I run my lowest IR pack I can feel it. We even have crazy locals discharging at 40 amps, then charging at 40amps to warm up the packs right before a race. The heat lowers the IR and you can just see the speed on the track. In mod, higher IR packs can calm down the car and are useful. In stock? Lowest IR and enough MAH to keep you flying for the entire race. How ever long it is.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:59 AM   #4830
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As for several others my ball cups are tight, and not freeing up after several weeks of running... did anyone try the SC10 4x4 cups, are they slightly bigger (although they should be nominally same right..)
I had that problem with 2" turnbuckles (stock or B4 or JC 'buckles) so I would guess that's what you are using. Get the shorter one like the Lunsford set and you won't have tight cups. You'll probably need to get a fresh set of ends now.
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