Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree137Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-22-2014, 11:17 PM
  #4156  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Originally Posted by Pittsdriver
What? Really?
Basically the only part I have seen broken .
not just once , more like 3 broken on two cars, both teammates of mind .
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 02-22-2014, 11:45 PM
  #4157  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,214
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

After a day of testing/tuning and my first club race, I got my b5 unbelievably dialed in. I took my years of b4 tuning experience and AE big bore experience and am beyond pleased with this car. I'm not even mad that I completely doinked myself out of the lead in the A main because the car was so flipp'n good--I was just all smiles and wheel whips with this plush and obedient ride.

The biggest surprise of the night was that I ended up on the 1.7 pistons. On the b4, they were too runny, but on this car, they're just right for the lighter damping needed with the bumps and come and go traction--plus they even have just enough pack to land jumps very nicely when longed! I got to play with trailing axle as well as droop, oils, and pistons. I started with black/green springs based on the work of other AE buds at the track and their testing with green/white and green/green springs and stuck with the black/green combo I used on the b4 big bore previously.

Full platform notes regarding my testing can be found here:
http://chewies.net/protable/index.ph...AE_B5_.28RM.29

Setup sheet:

Razathorn is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 05:46 AM
  #4158  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 162
Default

Good job Wayne. Noticed you had the fast lap in the A main also. Did you ever mess with the front camber link? I thought with the old car you always ran the short link with a high roll center at Fastlane.
will5879 is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 06:46 AM
  #4159  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,388
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PFKAOG
That happens when you crash into things
I agree, if you never crash or hit pipes, even a tyco turbo hopper is pro And yes, apparently a rock appeared on the face of a high flying jump and the car twisted, flipped and landed on the outside edge of the rear wheel and snapped it. I had lunsford last me for 10 years in my b4......so yeah.
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:51 AM
  #4160  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
 
TheBlueKnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 284
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Sorry if I missed it guys, I searched like crazy in this thread. Does the B5 come with both sets of arms in the kit (straight and gullwing)?
TheBlueKnight is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:56 AM
  #4161  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 862
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TheBlueKnight
Sorry if I missed it guys, I searched like crazy in this thread. Does the B5 come with both sets of arms in the kit (straight and gullwing)?
I don't believe so, just straight.
ntJeff is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:09 AM
  #4162  
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mars, PA
Posts: 1,057
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default

Ran my B5 yesterday for the first time. Track is medium size indoor, smooth, damp clay. We run on slicks because the traction is extremely high. My centro is crazy good on this track. I'm using the same tires as my centro.

Used the kit set-up except for shock pistons/oil. I went with 1.6 pistons all the way around. 30wt oil up front, and 25wt oil in the rear. This is based off my centro's shock set-up. However, I used green springs all the way around on the centro. I forgot to bring all my spare option parts for the car, so I used the green front, white rear springs on the B5.

The B5 is soo much better than my B4.2 ever was. It is a very consistent car, and flies soo much better than the old B4.2. However, I had a high speed push that was pretty bad. Once I got the buggy slowed up enough, I had great entry steering. But on high/medium speed corners, on power or off, the buggy pushed something fierce. Since I forgot all my dang tuning option spares, I tried moving the rear shocks in at the bottom, but it added no steering and only made the rear loose. I tried moving the front shocks in at the arm which made the steering quicker, but didn't add more steering. That change made the car really hard to drive.

I'm going to try the 30 degree bulkhead and/or a combination of the 3 degree trailing block. I might even move to a green spring in the rear and black spring up front. All in all, I qualified 6th overall at a track where the mod 2wd competition is usually pretty tough. The C & B e-scale mains ran before the mod 2wd mains, so the track was pretty loose. I got caught up in a wreck off the 2nd turn and was dead last before I completed the first lap. I felt like I was babying the car around the track because of how loose it was, but I ended up 4th and had gotten within a couple of turns of the 2nd & 3rd place cars by the end. So even though the car didn't feel perfect, I ended up turning some darn good laps with it.

Overall, this is the best rear motor car I've owned and If I can tune that push out of it, it might even rival my centro on this track
Wease is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:28 AM
  #4163  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,214
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by will5879
Good job Wayne. Noticed you had the fast lap in the A main also. Did you ever mess with the front camber link? I thought with the old car you always ran the short link with a high roll center at Fastlane.
Yes, the he car was SOOoo good in the main. I never played with the front link because it felt great where it was, and that was where I had it on the b4. I only ever ran that shorter link when I ran brown front springs when the big bores just came out. Those springs were too soft and the shorter link helped control the front end roll at that time. That was when we were first trying to find the right springs to run and just directly moving over from V2 rates. It is not applicable to the black or green fronts in my opinion, and nobody runs anything softer than blacks anymore that I've seen.

Also, it's worth noting that, at the time I ran the shorter camber link on the b4, it gave me a hint that it was the wrong front spring too. The way it presented itself was that the car was twitchy but the front end collapsed to easily in hard corners. Remember that the camber link changes the beginning of the suspension moving just as much as the end, where as the spring is an exponential change as the suspension moves--that is to say that while one spring may be 3.1 lb/in, and the other may be 2.9 lb/in, it takes them a whole inch to observe that difference in force, but initial small movements do not have that difference. The point is that a change in spring is more pronounced when the spring is compressed further, but a roll center change can be felt more in the initial movements of the car compared to that of the springs.

Wayne
Razathorn is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:50 AM
  #4164  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Yesterday spent the time on helping one of our younger Ae drivers with in his B5

Were using the kit setup & geometry.

1.6 pistons , 32.5w front & 30w rear
Green front spring & white rear.


The driver is very good, he has serious speed but has had difficulty being consistent making too many mistakes each run.

1st change

We changed his gearing for the motor.
Was using the 81 spur with a 24 pinion.(8.5 Reedy)
Changed to a
78 spur which moved the motor more forward.
This gave the car smoother handling on the sharp corners by smoothing out the rotation and reducing the sling shot effect .
Also smoothed the torque and made it easier to punch out of the corner.

2nd change

Added 14 gram of ballast in front of the servo on the chassis.

This cured any on power push & really help smooth the car's entry into the sweeper & sharp corners.

With these simple changes he was able to push his ride a lap faster then ever before.
His lap times stay about the same , but he does not crash hardly at all .

Today he runs again, bet $$$ will do even better as he adjusts to the setup change.
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:56 AM
  #4165  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,214
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wease
Ran my B5 yesterday for the first time. Track is medium size indoor, smooth, damp clay. We run on slicks because the traction is extremely high. My centro is crazy good on this track. I'm using the same tires as my centro.

Used the kit set-up except for shock pistons/oil. I went with 1.6 pistons all the way around. 30wt oil up front, and 25wt oil in the rear. This is based off my centro's shock set-up. However, I used green springs all the way around on the centro. I forgot to bring all my spare option parts for the car, so I used the green front, white rear springs on the B5.

The B5 is soo much better than my B4.2 ever was. It is a very consistent car, and flies soo much better than the old B4.2. However, I had a high speed push that was pretty bad. Once I got the buggy slowed up enough, I had great entry steering. But on high/medium speed corners, on power or off, the buggy pushed something fierce. Since I forgot all my dang tuning option spares, I tried moving the rear shocks in at the bottom, but it added no steering and only made the rear loose. I tried moving the front shocks in at the arm which made the steering quicker, but didn't add more steering. That change made the car really hard to drive.

I'm going to try the 30 degree bulkhead and/or a combination of the 3 degree trailing block. I might even move to a green spring in the rear and black spring up front. All in all, I qualified 6th overall at a track where the mod 2wd competition is usually pretty tough. The C & B e-scale mains ran before the mod 2wd mains, so the track was pretty loose. I got caught up in a wreck off the 2nd turn and was dead last before I completed the first lap. I felt like I was babying the car around the track because of how loose it was, but I ended up 4th and had gotten within a couple of turns of the 2nd & 3rd place cars by the end. So even though the car didn't feel perfect, I ended up turning some darn good laps with it.

Overall, this is the best rear motor car I've owned and If I can tune that push out of it, it might even rival my centro on this track
I found that the front trailing axle was extremely effective at acquiring steering. Also, the recent team setups have a ton of front droop, which will help mid corner, but harm corner exit steering. I run 18.75 front stroke with 2mm trailing axle. To account for the change in wheelbase I moved the caster block backs back 2mm, and then went to zero ackerman washers to account for the block moving back 2mm (needs 6mm ball stud to clear steering box).

Wayne
Razathorn is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 10:06 AM
  #4166  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 22
Default

Razathorn, after hubdreds of pages of turnbukle posts is really nice to read your posts about setup...if i understand correct, you run in an indoor clay, but with low grip? Right? Here almost all people run in high bite clay indoor...but my local track is a low bite clay...start wet with med grip and become dry and slippery.
I think that we can share some setup changes for this new car...
zambo is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 10:43 AM
  #4167  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
BillPear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: The O.C. 92646
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I was told that the m wouldn't be there by then, but who knows...if they have an extra one i may just build it while im there.
Kody told me they were in the warehouse, Nicked announced they would be in the shop sometime next week.
BillPear is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 10:45 AM
  #4168  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (114)
 
Mxer59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 2,703
Trader Rating: 114 (100%+)
Default

Was curious on how this car is doing? Interested currently run rb6 just can't get setup where I want it just seems in 17.5 it does not have the snap as the tlr and ae due. So wanted some feedback for 17.5 and some mod also like 8.5.
Mxer59 is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 10:58 AM
  #4169  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
tropmonky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 118
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

it all depends on the setup.

Looking forward to seeing Kody's setup sheet!!!
tropmonky is offline  
Old 02-23-2014, 11:00 AM
  #4170  
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mars, PA
Posts: 1,057
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Razathorn
I found that the front trailing axle was extremely effective at acquiring steering. Also, the recent team setups have a ton of front droop, which will help mid corner, but harm corner exit steering. I run 18.75 front stroke with 2mm trailing axle. To account for the change in wheelbase I moved the caster block backs back 2mm, and then went to zero ackerman washers to account for the block moving back 2mm (needs 6mm ball stud to clear steering box).

Wayne
Wayne, thanks for the tips. Do you know how many mm the stock B4.2 axles trail? The only thing my B.2 had was gobs of steering. 2mm trailing axles is a pretty big change from the stock 4mm, but I thought I remembered that the stock B4.2 came with inline steering axles.
Wease is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.