Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#4156
#4157
After a day of testing/tuning and my first club race, I got my b5 unbelievably dialed in. I took my years of b4 tuning experience and AE big bore experience and am beyond pleased with this car. I'm not even mad that I completely doinked myself out of the lead in the A main because the car was so flipp'n good--I was just all smiles and wheel whips with this plush and obedient ride.
The biggest surprise of the night was that I ended up on the 1.7 pistons. On the b4, they were too runny, but on this car, they're just right for the lighter damping needed with the bumps and come and go traction--plus they even have just enough pack to land jumps very nicely when longed! I got to play with trailing axle as well as droop, oils, and pistons. I started with black/green springs based on the work of other AE buds at the track and their testing with green/white and green/green springs and stuck with the black/green combo I used on the b4 big bore previously.
Full platform notes regarding my testing can be found here:
http://chewies.net/protable/index.ph...AE_B5_.28RM.29
Setup sheet:
The biggest surprise of the night was that I ended up on the 1.7 pistons. On the b4, they were too runny, but on this car, they're just right for the lighter damping needed with the bumps and come and go traction--plus they even have just enough pack to land jumps very nicely when longed! I got to play with trailing axle as well as droop, oils, and pistons. I started with black/green springs based on the work of other AE buds at the track and their testing with green/white and green/green springs and stuck with the black/green combo I used on the b4 big bore previously.
Full platform notes regarding my testing can be found here:
http://chewies.net/protable/index.ph...AE_B5_.28RM.29
Setup sheet:
#4158
Tech Adept
Good job Wayne. Noticed you had the fast lap in the A main also. Did you ever mess with the front camber link? I thought with the old car you always ran the short link with a high roll center at Fastlane.
#4159
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I agree, if you never crash or hit pipes, even a tyco turbo hopper is pro And yes, apparently a rock appeared on the face of a high flying jump and the car twisted, flipped and landed on the outside edge of the rear wheel and snapped it. I had lunsford last me for 10 years in my b4......so yeah.
#4160
Sorry if I missed it guys, I searched like crazy in this thread. Does the B5 come with both sets of arms in the kit (straight and gullwing)?
#4161
#4162
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Ran my B5 yesterday for the first time. Track is medium size indoor, smooth, damp clay. We run on slicks because the traction is extremely high. My centro is crazy good on this track. I'm using the same tires as my centro.
Used the kit set-up except for shock pistons/oil. I went with 1.6 pistons all the way around. 30wt oil up front, and 25wt oil in the rear. This is based off my centro's shock set-up. However, I used green springs all the way around on the centro. I forgot to bring all my spare option parts for the car, so I used the green front, white rear springs on the B5.
The B5 is soo much better than my B4.2 ever was. It is a very consistent car, and flies soo much better than the old B4.2. However, I had a high speed push that was pretty bad. Once I got the buggy slowed up enough, I had great entry steering. But on high/medium speed corners, on power or off, the buggy pushed something fierce. Since I forgot all my dang tuning option spares, I tried moving the rear shocks in at the bottom, but it added no steering and only made the rear loose. I tried moving the front shocks in at the arm which made the steering quicker, but didn't add more steering. That change made the car really hard to drive.
I'm going to try the 30 degree bulkhead and/or a combination of the 3 degree trailing block. I might even move to a green spring in the rear and black spring up front. All in all, I qualified 6th overall at a track where the mod 2wd competition is usually pretty tough. The C & B e-scale mains ran before the mod 2wd mains, so the track was pretty loose. I got caught up in a wreck off the 2nd turn and was dead last before I completed the first lap. I felt like I was babying the car around the track because of how loose it was, but I ended up 4th and had gotten within a couple of turns of the 2nd & 3rd place cars by the end. So even though the car didn't feel perfect, I ended up turning some darn good laps with it.
Overall, this is the best rear motor car I've owned and If I can tune that push out of it, it might even rival my centro on this track
Used the kit set-up except for shock pistons/oil. I went with 1.6 pistons all the way around. 30wt oil up front, and 25wt oil in the rear. This is based off my centro's shock set-up. However, I used green springs all the way around on the centro. I forgot to bring all my spare option parts for the car, so I used the green front, white rear springs on the B5.
The B5 is soo much better than my B4.2 ever was. It is a very consistent car, and flies soo much better than the old B4.2. However, I had a high speed push that was pretty bad. Once I got the buggy slowed up enough, I had great entry steering. But on high/medium speed corners, on power or off, the buggy pushed something fierce. Since I forgot all my dang tuning option spares, I tried moving the rear shocks in at the bottom, but it added no steering and only made the rear loose. I tried moving the front shocks in at the arm which made the steering quicker, but didn't add more steering. That change made the car really hard to drive.
I'm going to try the 30 degree bulkhead and/or a combination of the 3 degree trailing block. I might even move to a green spring in the rear and black spring up front. All in all, I qualified 6th overall at a track where the mod 2wd competition is usually pretty tough. The C & B e-scale mains ran before the mod 2wd mains, so the track was pretty loose. I got caught up in a wreck off the 2nd turn and was dead last before I completed the first lap. I felt like I was babying the car around the track because of how loose it was, but I ended up 4th and had gotten within a couple of turns of the 2nd & 3rd place cars by the end. So even though the car didn't feel perfect, I ended up turning some darn good laps with it.
Overall, this is the best rear motor car I've owned and If I can tune that push out of it, it might even rival my centro on this track
#4163
Also, it's worth noting that, at the time I ran the shorter camber link on the b4, it gave me a hint that it was the wrong front spring too. The way it presented itself was that the car was twitchy but the front end collapsed to easily in hard corners. Remember that the camber link changes the beginning of the suspension moving just as much as the end, where as the spring is an exponential change as the suspension moves--that is to say that while one spring may be 3.1 lb/in, and the other may be 2.9 lb/in, it takes them a whole inch to observe that difference in force, but initial small movements do not have that difference. The point is that a change in spring is more pronounced when the spring is compressed further, but a roll center change can be felt more in the initial movements of the car compared to that of the springs.
Wayne
#4164
Yesterday spent the time on helping one of our younger Ae drivers with in his B5
Were using the kit setup & geometry.
1.6 pistons , 32.5w front & 30w rear
Green front spring & white rear.
The driver is very good, he has serious speed but has had difficulty being consistent making too many mistakes each run.
1st change
We changed his gearing for the motor.
Was using the 81 spur with a 24 pinion.(8.5 Reedy)
Changed to a
78 spur which moved the motor more forward.
This gave the car smoother handling on the sharp corners by smoothing out the rotation and reducing the sling shot effect .
Also smoothed the torque and made it easier to punch out of the corner.
2nd change
Added 14 gram of ballast in front of the servo on the chassis.
This cured any on power push & really help smooth the car's entry into the sweeper & sharp corners.
With these simple changes he was able to push his ride a lap faster then ever before.
His lap times stay about the same , but he does not crash hardly at all .
Today he runs again, bet $$$ will do even better as he adjusts to the setup change.
Were using the kit setup & geometry.
1.6 pistons , 32.5w front & 30w rear
Green front spring & white rear.
The driver is very good, he has serious speed but has had difficulty being consistent making too many mistakes each run.
1st change
We changed his gearing for the motor.
Was using the 81 spur with a 24 pinion.(8.5 Reedy)
Changed to a
78 spur which moved the motor more forward.
This gave the car smoother handling on the sharp corners by smoothing out the rotation and reducing the sling shot effect .
Also smoothed the torque and made it easier to punch out of the corner.
2nd change
Added 14 gram of ballast in front of the servo on the chassis.
This cured any on power push & really help smooth the car's entry into the sweeper & sharp corners.
With these simple changes he was able to push his ride a lap faster then ever before.
His lap times stay about the same , but he does not crash hardly at all .
Today he runs again, bet $$$ will do even better as he adjusts to the setup change.
#4165
Ran my B5 yesterday for the first time. Track is medium size indoor, smooth, damp clay. We run on slicks because the traction is extremely high. My centro is crazy good on this track. I'm using the same tires as my centro.
Used the kit set-up except for shock pistons/oil. I went with 1.6 pistons all the way around. 30wt oil up front, and 25wt oil in the rear. This is based off my centro's shock set-up. However, I used green springs all the way around on the centro. I forgot to bring all my spare option parts for the car, so I used the green front, white rear springs on the B5.
The B5 is soo much better than my B4.2 ever was. It is a very consistent car, and flies soo much better than the old B4.2. However, I had a high speed push that was pretty bad. Once I got the buggy slowed up enough, I had great entry steering. But on high/medium speed corners, on power or off, the buggy pushed something fierce. Since I forgot all my dang tuning option spares, I tried moving the rear shocks in at the bottom, but it added no steering and only made the rear loose. I tried moving the front shocks in at the arm which made the steering quicker, but didn't add more steering. That change made the car really hard to drive.
I'm going to try the 30 degree bulkhead and/or a combination of the 3 degree trailing block. I might even move to a green spring in the rear and black spring up front. All in all, I qualified 6th overall at a track where the mod 2wd competition is usually pretty tough. The C & B e-scale mains ran before the mod 2wd mains, so the track was pretty loose. I got caught up in a wreck off the 2nd turn and was dead last before I completed the first lap. I felt like I was babying the car around the track because of how loose it was, but I ended up 4th and had gotten within a couple of turns of the 2nd & 3rd place cars by the end. So even though the car didn't feel perfect, I ended up turning some darn good laps with it.
Overall, this is the best rear motor car I've owned and If I can tune that push out of it, it might even rival my centro on this track
Used the kit set-up except for shock pistons/oil. I went with 1.6 pistons all the way around. 30wt oil up front, and 25wt oil in the rear. This is based off my centro's shock set-up. However, I used green springs all the way around on the centro. I forgot to bring all my spare option parts for the car, so I used the green front, white rear springs on the B5.
The B5 is soo much better than my B4.2 ever was. It is a very consistent car, and flies soo much better than the old B4.2. However, I had a high speed push that was pretty bad. Once I got the buggy slowed up enough, I had great entry steering. But on high/medium speed corners, on power or off, the buggy pushed something fierce. Since I forgot all my dang tuning option spares, I tried moving the rear shocks in at the bottom, but it added no steering and only made the rear loose. I tried moving the front shocks in at the arm which made the steering quicker, but didn't add more steering. That change made the car really hard to drive.
I'm going to try the 30 degree bulkhead and/or a combination of the 3 degree trailing block. I might even move to a green spring in the rear and black spring up front. All in all, I qualified 6th overall at a track where the mod 2wd competition is usually pretty tough. The C & B e-scale mains ran before the mod 2wd mains, so the track was pretty loose. I got caught up in a wreck off the 2nd turn and was dead last before I completed the first lap. I felt like I was babying the car around the track because of how loose it was, but I ended up 4th and had gotten within a couple of turns of the 2nd & 3rd place cars by the end. So even though the car didn't feel perfect, I ended up turning some darn good laps with it.
Overall, this is the best rear motor car I've owned and If I can tune that push out of it, it might even rival my centro on this track
Wayne
#4166
Tech Initiate
Razathorn, after hubdreds of pages of turnbukle posts is really nice to read your posts about setup...if i understand correct, you run in an indoor clay, but with low grip? Right? Here almost all people run in high bite clay indoor...but my local track is a low bite clay...start wet with med grip and become dry and slippery.
I think that we can share some setup changes for this new car...
I think that we can share some setup changes for this new car...
#4170
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I found that the front trailing axle was extremely effective at acquiring steering. Also, the recent team setups have a ton of front droop, which will help mid corner, but harm corner exit steering. I run 18.75 front stroke with 2mm trailing axle. To account for the change in wheelbase I moved the caster block backs back 2mm, and then went to zero ackerman washers to account for the block moving back 2mm (needs 6mm ball stud to clear steering box).
Wayne
Wayne