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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:08 PM   #4081
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Originally Posted by slappomatt View Post
lol its stock racing. You need every single upgrade ever made. and then get out the dremel and cut everything in half. Thats how the stock guys are around here.

seriously though its a fairly heavy car. anything to shed weight would help. Al screws, ti turnbuckles, alum top shaft and one of the lighter slipper alternatives is where I would start.

I was looking at mine tonight and kinda want to have a buddy lathe some of the metal out of the one piece front axles.
Thanks
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:13 PM   #4082
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My kid drives it.. and yes, One front bulk head and nothing else.. Not the only one I have seen broke.
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:45 AM   #4083
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Originally Posted by Jakelopez View Post
Can some one give me a list of upgrades for stock racing
To cut the weight down; Titanium screw kit, AE aluminum top shaft, Schelle slipper eliminator. remove battery strap, thumb screws & foam, cut out all braces behind servo, between battery post, and triangle sections next to tranny mount. AKA Typo tires. Oh yea and the dog bones were polished chrome to make it go faster.
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Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-b5m.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-b5m2.jpg  
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:53 AM   #4084
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To cut the weight down; Titanium screw kit, AE aluminum top shaft, Schelle slipper eliminator. remove battery strap, thumb screws & foam, cut out all braces behind servo, between battery post, and triangle sections next to tranny mount. AKA Typo tires. Oh yea and the dog bones were polished chrome to make it go faster.
anyone know where to buy most affordable titanium screws or screw kit? add mpi puck system to above list.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:05 AM   #4085
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To cut the weight down;
The Typos you have on are why your car is illegally lite too. If you had golds on, you would be in the 1520's to 30's.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:20 AM   #4086
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
http://2wdmod.com/2014/04/29/schoett...concepts-trcr/





Starting with this..

Cept was advised to change to 4mm under rear chassis stud.

Also not using the Kyosho springs.
Instead using Ae grey front & Ae white rear...
So, you are using the plastic rear inner camber plate plus 4mm ballstud spacers or the aluminum +2mm or the aluminum +4mm (like +6mm on plastic)?
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:29 AM   #4087
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Will the c4.1 finisher body fit the b5m correctly?
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:42 AM   #4088
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[QUOTE=gticlay;13238356]So, you are using the plastic rear inner camber plate plus 4mm ballstud spacers or the aluminum +2mm or the aluminum +4mm (like +6mm on plastic)?[/QUOTE

Using the alloy camber mount .

Just 4mm, did not flip over camber mount.

Tip
There's a new camber location info for rear. Will post when I get the new alloy hubs later this week.
The dweebs may be trollN after I post the info , can you remember BK's Sc10 4x4 camber mod ?

Today I'm burying my sensor wire under the batteries and breaking un a fresh set of Jc Dirt Webs.....


My ride is the best car I have ever driven.
Yesterday was its first runs.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:46 AM   #4089
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What are ur gearing for 17.5 I'm running 69/33 and it's feels like I don't have much top or top speed
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:57 AM   #4090
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[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;13238427]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
So, you are using the plastic rear inner camber plate plus 4mm ballstud spacers or the aluminum +2mm or the aluminum +4mm (like +6mm on plastic)?[/QUOTE

Using the alloy camber mount .

Just 4mm, did not flip over camber mount.

Tip
There's a new camber location info for rear. Will post when I get the new alloy hubs later this week.
The dweebs may be trollN after I post the info , can you remember BK's Sc10 4x4 camber mod ?

Today I'm burying my sensor wire under the batteries and breaking un a fresh set of Jc Dirt Webs.....


My ride is the best car I have ever driven.
Yesterday was its first runs.
Noooo, I don't want my car to look like that!
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:06 AM   #4091
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BTW, here's my build so far. I decided to spend a little money on a nice paint job this time around instead of neon green spraybomb. Have my 4wd painted the same.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:06 AM   #4092
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But you'll have a much nicer rear hub design.

Bridgewater has all the newest modifications.
We were testing all Sat afternoon.

Paint is very good...
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:30 AM   #4093
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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
BTW, here's my build so far. I decided to spend a little money on a nice paint job this time around instead of neon green spraybomb. Have my 4wd painted the same.
Your car looks real nice! Question: Why doesn't Lunsford make turn buckle kits that will allow the threads to bury all the way? Even the kit "steelies" will bury the threads, because they are 2" long.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:35 AM   #4094
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Originally Posted by bilster44 View Post
Your car looks real nice! Question: Why doesn't Lunsford make turn buckle kits that will allow the threads to bury all the way? Even the kit "steelies" will bury the threads, because they are 2" long.
my 1 7/8 bury in all the way. Imo 1 3/4 is probably the best length. burying the treads makes setting camber more resistant.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:36 AM   #4095
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Originally Posted by bilster44 View Post
Your car looks real nice! Question: Why doesn't Lunsford make turn buckle kits that will allow the threads to bury all the way? Even the kit "steelies" will bury the threads, because they are 2" long.
Because the ballcups were getting so tight that they would pop off when you tried to adjust them later. So they shortened them up just a little bit. There's still a ton of engagement but, for example, when I go to adjust (on my RM) later, they make that little snapping sound from being tight but the ballcups don't pop off.

Also, they do make a kit with all 2" links if you want them to go all the way in.
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