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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:13 PM   #3601
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All you have to do is hold a set of the B-Fast diff rings in your hand and you will be sold.
Never had the need to. I have sold cars on here before and then 6 months later I get a pm from the guy asking me how i built the diff in it because its still perfect.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:15 PM   #3602
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Sandpaper glued to glass.You can even get trick like this guy did and put multiple grits on the same piece of glass.

Contact cement works good for gluing the paper down.

Make sure you use wet/dry sandpaper.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:18 PM   #3603
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Never had the need to. I have sold cars on here before and then 6 months later I get a pm from the guy asking me how i built the diff in it because its still perfect.
I'm not questioning your diff building or break-in skills. I just know that if you start out with an even, consistent surface, everything is better. Stock diff rings are punched out of a sheet of metal on a punch press and distortion is inevitable. The first time I held a set of B-Fast diff rings in my hand, I said "Nice".
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:33 PM   #3604
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Never had the need to. I have sold cars on here before and then 6 months later I get a pm from the guy asking me how i built the diff in it because its still perfect.
+1 on that after you have built like 50 or more of them since 1990 something when the first stealth came out, you build them right dont need anything extra, i do like the caged thrust balls though and thats because they are easier to work with. Dont think they make the diff any smoother.
Razz I applaud you for your deligence in making your rings smoother if it works for you cool.
I just dont think its neccesary to do all that work just to do it over when it feels gritty again.
I race stock what do I know
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:40 PM   #3605
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Never had the need to. I have sold cars on here before and then 6 months later I get a pm from the guy asking me how i built the diff in it because its still perfect.
now im curious...what is your method?
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:42 PM   #3606
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now im curious...what is your method?
proper break-in. I dont think i do it any different really than the manual suggests...just break it in for a while. Tightening as i go. Never loosen the diff to get your final setting, always tighten to get to final.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:43 PM   #3607
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now im curious...what is your method?
If he tells you.....within a few hours you'll be getting a double "tap" from Seal Team 6

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Old 04-17-2014, 01:54 PM   #3608
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Well building my second b5 I noticed the outdrives having a charcoal color to them. I can scratch it off. Could ruin my diff? If it was to flake off and make it all gritty? Really wanna run tomorrow.
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Old 04-17-2014, 02:43 PM   #3609
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how much lighter are the alumium screws to the steel ones?
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Old 04-17-2014, 02:46 PM   #3610
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how much lighter are the alumium screws to the steel ones?
the handometer scale says just a little bit
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:54 PM   #3611
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the handometer scale says just a little bit
does the handometer say more or less than 50g difference?
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Old 04-17-2014, 04:32 PM   #3612
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does the handometer say more or less than 50g difference?
Hell no. Not anywhere close.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:05 PM   #3613
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so during the build, did any of you sand the slipper pads and diff rings??
I do indeed sand all of my AE diff rings. It is mainly just to take out the variations in height on the surface of the ring. If you take a sharpie and color in the surface, then put your ring in the outdrive to sand it down on some 400 or 600 grit you will notice this by how much sharpie has been taken off. (make sure you place your sand paper on glass, marble, or anything really flat)

I don't know if they changed their manufacturing process since I started doing this, but it definitely helped the diff be smoother from the beginning on my B44.2.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:15 PM   #3614
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I agree with Matt, break in is key! I never used to put much effort or thought into it, and just figured everyone's diff's got gritty after a few days. Then I started putting in the time to do a proper break in..The result is a diff that can last a couple months or more.
I actually use a method I discovered on here or youtube, sorry credit cannot be due since I don't know who started doing it first.

I bought a cheap dog bone that fit into all my 1/10 diffs, then I cut it in half so I can put the other end in the collet of my dremel.

This allows me to do a pre break in so I can have multiple diffs, and if one goes out I have one broken in ready to go. No sweat!

I first get the diff together using caged bearings from avid, or casper has nice ones too. Then I build the diff normally until I get to the part where you tighten the diff down all the way and back off. Instead of just tightening it down all the way which can cause flat spotted balls, I gradually tighten the diff spinning it for 30-40 seconds with the dremel with each 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the diff screw.
I hold the gear while doing all of this obviously, make sure you use the lowest speed possible that will turn the opposite outdrive. Also make sure that you get your diff tight enough to not slip by hand before starting this process.

I believe this will also work with a non impact drill that uses the standard chuck.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:14 PM   #3615
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Step1
tighten diff one or two turn and rotate diff against your hand .
Repeat using fewer turns each step until the diff feels tight & you cannot make slip . Test by using two drivers into each outdrive and try to rotate gear by & with a rag to get a good grip.
Step 2
install diff inside transmission & car.

Run the motor at a slow speed and hold one wheel to break in the diff.
Takes about 1 min.
If you can feel the diff free up you will need to tighten it some more and repeat break end until you feel it is tight and broken in .
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