Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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#2900
Tech Addict
ok.. you guys are joking right? these are super easy shocks to rebuild.. read the directions in your manual again and you should be fine.
I also heard if you use the wrong stickers on the body it can cause your car to jump funny.. ya that top shaft push is bad.... lol I heard if you mount a rear wing on the front of the car to increase downforce it takes the push away. lol
its like the guy at the track who uses the 4 turn mod and cant figure out why he has trouble getting around the track..lol
I also heard if you use the wrong stickers on the body it can cause your car to jump funny.. ya that top shaft push is bad.... lol I heard if you mount a rear wing on the front of the car to increase downforce it takes the push away. lol
its like the guy at the track who uses the 4 turn mod and cant figure out why he has trouble getting around the track..lol
#2905
Tech Master
I use the shock pump after refilling the shocks with clean oil and after pumping the shock shaft and piston (no cap installed). It creates a vacuum which removes the bubbles at a much faster rate then if you were to fill/pump and then let sit in a shock stand. I then follow the bleeding procedure outlined in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw
I originally bought the shock pump for my Tamiya TRF sedan shocks, but it works well with any offroad shock.
I was skeptical at first, but it does work, and I look at it like shock pliers...not necessary, but nice to have.
#2909
You don't need those setscrews. Just put a dap of tire glue or any glue on the inserts that go into the hubs (front and rear) and you get rid of slop. Also saving grams of weight which you want to do wherever you can since the b5m is such a heavy car.