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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:44 AM   #2896
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The AE top shaft can cause your car to push. The MIP really frees up the rear end, especially in tight 180's. Exotek top shafts jump better.
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:49 AM   #2897
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I wanted to try the 3 0 set up but I have the alum mounts but no inserts. I was not paying attention when I ordered them. I assumed they came with the inserts. Who has ever heard of buying a block and not being about to use it.
I don't think you will need 0 degrees of antisquat in this MM car. Try playing with your front tires, Tony. I did last Wednesday and WOW much better. I also have the RM front end just in case...
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:50 AM   #2898
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Over/under on how many don't realize you used the sarcasim font.
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:50 AM   #2899
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Check out petit RC, they have a guide with pictures
Link?
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:51 AM   #2900
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ok.. you guys are joking right? these are super easy shocks to rebuild.. read the directions in your manual again and you should be fine.

I also heard if you use the wrong stickers on the body it can cause your car to jump funny.. ya that top shaft push is bad.... lol I heard if you mount a rear wing on the front of the car to increase downforce it takes the push away. lol

its like the guy at the track who uses the 4 turn mod and cant figure out why he has trouble getting around the track..lol
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:14 AM   #2901
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:24 AM   #2902
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Originally Posted by 34x17 View Post
The AE top shaft can cause your car to push. The MIP really frees up the rear end, especially in tight 180's. Exotek top shafts jump better.
I can see the MIP Puck System really frees up the rear end. Which will be on the list, hopefully released soon.
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:10 PM   #2903
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what if you undid the bleeder screw used this to get negative pressure in the shocks wouldnt that make it easier to build shocks.
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:36 PM   #2904
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$38 to suck some bubbles out of my shocks
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:45 PM   #2905
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what if you undid the bleeder screw used this to get negative pressure in the shocks wouldnt that make it easier to build shocks.
Not sure I follow (might be a translation issue).

I use the shock pump after refilling the shocks with clean oil and after pumping the shock shaft and piston (no cap installed). It creates a vacuum which removes the bubbles at a much faster rate then if you were to fill/pump and then let sit in a shock stand. I then follow the bleeding procedure outlined in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw

I originally bought the shock pump for my Tamiya TRF sedan shocks, but it works well with any offroad shock.

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$38 to suck some bubbles out of my shocks
I was skeptical at first, but it does work, and I look at it like shock pliers...not necessary, but nice to have.
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:49 PM   #2906
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$38 to suck some bubbles out of my shocks
Well you do save 2 minutes per rebuild...
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Old 03-29-2014, 02:52 PM   #2907
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aight guys in the manual its got a couple racer tips. set screw 4670 for the caster block insert and hinge pin, and the rear hub inserts and hingepin. anybody done this? not done this? advantage or not needed? feedback plz
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Old 03-29-2014, 02:59 PM   #2908
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Originally Posted by 34x17 View Post
The AE top shaft can cause your car to push. The MIP really frees up the rear end, especially in tight 180's. Exotek top shafts jump better.
I'm sorry what? Why would a top shaft impact anything but rotating weight?
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Old 03-29-2014, 03:01 PM   #2909
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You don't need those setscrews. Just put a dap of tire glue or any glue on the inserts that go into the hubs (front and rear) and you get rid of slop. Also saving grams of weight which you want to do wherever you can since the b5m is such a heavy car.
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Old 03-29-2014, 03:08 PM   #2910
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