Originally Posted by Rybeau40

My biggest issue right now, and why I have yet to purchase this one, is that I don't see many guys running them at the majority of club tracks. Obviously, if your club track is super grip or high bite than they are great, but I would be concerned with the fact that most tracks just aren't high bite indoor or outdoor.

Anyone successfully using the M version on lesser bite, loamy type tracks?

Originally Posted by BillPear

I cant believe that you don't realize that Cherry knows everything their is to know, and a bit more than that as well!

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

listen.... "If" your torn or concerned, then the RM is probably for you. We have a guy trying to get one to work out doors. Not loamy, but not high bite. He is faster and more consistent with the RM. He has both btw. Asking people if they are winning with it, its kinda a useless question. I could tell you I tq and win every week, but it means nothing. Who an I racing against? Novice? Low local talent pool. If you are ever in doubt, just get a RM. Easier to drive a car with too much rear traction, than one with too little

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

She's a lil fatty..... this is with a saddle pack and probably 10 or so extra grams of wire

Originally Posted by Cridd

+1 on winning, last night our good guys were winning with B4.2, RB6's, 90% driver and set up.

Parts are going to be hard to find, I got extra arms, towers before I build RM and a few small things, surprised we have not seen hop up parts come to market faster from JC and others. All I have seen are battery straps. Car is crazy durable though have not broken one thing yet so my extra parts are still in box.

My take on C4 compared to BMM, not as solid, little more skittish, felt like it was riding on top of the dirt for me while the B5MM is down in the dirt and I can push harder. My son inherited C4.2 last night and loves it. Still 90% driver.

I like the MM car, being in sport since last year and going from b4.1 RTR to B4.2, C4.2 and now B5MM maybe don't have to build a car for awhile , ran car last night was very predicable, didn't crash a lot just need to push harder and run cleaner lines. I like the 2mm trailing with standard Ackerman tons of steering, fits my driving. I like flat arms for quick ride height tuning but for time being may play with shocks. I did stock set up but used tapered since I had them, but may try 1.6 in rear. Really want to lighten it up a little for stock so that is my mission for now along with new JC body.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

Purchased already

Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks

I gave not purchase a out yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I oxn stand by till we get more kits.

Originally Posted by Tradin Paint

What is the part number for the alloy steering and where did you get it

Originally Posted by billjacobs

I built a b5m over the weekend (took about 5 hours total) and these are my suggestions:

1) use super fine synthetic steel wool pads (about $5) to polish the ball ends, shock shafts, and the front inner hinge pins (simply put the item into a dremel, spin it up and then polish with the pad for a few seconds)- this is especially true for the front inner hinge pins because the front kick up block is very tight.

2) in the gearbox, use 1 .1x10mm shim to take slop out of the diff, and 1 .1x5mm shim to take slop out of the top shaft (between the top shaft gear and the aluminum spacer)

3) use 3 .3x4mm shims to remove play from the rear arms. in my kit, the rear left arm had twice the play of the right, so I put 1 shim at the back of the left arm, and then 1 shim in front of both arms. this removed all play.

4) the turnbuckles are way too long. they used the same ones as the b4, but since the ball cups are longer, you go past the threaded area by quite a bit. I had some 43mm turnbuckles laying around and they worked perfectly. don't forget to put chapstick on the threads.

5) the diff went together fine, but the stock diff rings are not flat. I had to sand mine to get them flat.

6) if you are using a novak ballistic motor, the motor shaft hits the gear cover. I simply used a reamer to open a hole where the shaft made an indent in the cover.

7) take your time with the gear box screws, they are tight.

8) the stock wheel nuts are junk. when you go to take them off, 2 of the nylon inserts got jammed in the threads. i just used regular 4mm serrated nuts

9) the only part my kit was missing was one of the 3 hole plastic rear hub inserts (go opposite the blue aluminum one.) Aside from that, the 8 year old putting the box together did well.

Other than those issues, the build went fine. It really is a nice car, and I especially like the reasonable prices. Even though many will get the hopups as they are released, you really don't need them.

Good job team associated.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

I drive both rides , just doing my best to be helpful , friendly and on topic.