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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-21-2014, 12:43 AM   #2491
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Originally Posted by SAGISI View Post
Here you go (orion r10 w/futaba receiver):



I routed the wires out the back of the capacitor


Looks awesome but couldn't you just turn it around or wouldn't it fit cause the chassis starts to taper in?
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Old 03-21-2014, 01:02 AM   #2492
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I think it's funny that Mayfield has 0 for rear ball stud washers when clearly he is running 3mm I think. Also didn't fill in the front ball stud washer when he has 1mm. Anyone catch that or am I seeing things? Who ever filled that out must of been in a hurry jezz
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:01 AM   #2493
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I think it's funny that Mayfield has 0 for rear ball stud washers when clearly he is running 3mm I think. Also didn't fill in the front ball stud washer when he has 1mm. Anyone catch that or am I seeing things? Who ever filled that out must of been in a hurry jezz
+1 that's why I prefer to see actual pics.
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:57 AM   #2494
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I think it's funny that Mayfield has 0 for rear ball stud washers when clearly he is running 3mm I think. Also didn't fill in the front ball stud washer when he has 1mm. Anyone catch that or am I seeing things? Who ever filled that out must of been in a hurry jezz
The problem with this is you don't know when they took the picture. They probably tried so many different setups over the week. I'm sure if you look hard enough, you'll find more pics with other differences.
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Old 03-21-2014, 05:46 AM   #2495
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And the track conditions changes during the race so one setup which works on the first qual could not work on the other quals or main finals !

The setup sheet is just here to tell which direction we should go in for this track, but you better not copy that exactly and try to learn by yourself and understand the purpose of each setting ! It's kinda hard and need so much time but it's useful
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Old 03-21-2014, 05:47 AM   #2496
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I think it's funny that Mayfield has 0 for rear ball stud washers when clearly he is running 3mm I think. Also didn't fill in the front ball stud washer when he has 1mm. Anyone catch that or am I seeing things? Who ever filled that out must of been in a hurry jezz

actually, in the picture of the rear stud mount, the aluminum piece looks to me to have a lower mount point by 1 mm over std plastic. Thus I translate the picture to show him having 2mm at that point. But that's only my observation...

Others are right. These pictures could have been taken during 1st round or practice to show off the new money makers.
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:32 AM   #2497
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Why is everyone using the orion speed control? Is there something special about it that I dont know about?
because you can make it blink when it has boost and timimg.
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:32 AM   #2498
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because you can make it blink when it has boost and timimg.
Ahh....that sounds nice
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:58 AM   #2499
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because you can make it blink when it has boost and timimg.
I cant read.....
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:43 AM   #2500
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because you can make it blink when it has boost and timimg.
Do tell... This achieved by using the handheld programmer?
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:50 AM   #2501
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It's a misunderstanding of how it works is all. You can have your Orion R10 set with boost and timing, but once you set it to Mode 4 or no boost/timing mode, you still have no boost or timing regardless if you see in the window that those settings are still set.
It's easy to test to if your the owner. set it for a lot of boost and timing and set to mode 1 (non blinky mode), run the car. It will be very fast.
Then set to mode 4 (blinky mode), without touching the boost or timing, and your car is now blinky mode and much slower than before, regardless if you see it shows the previous settings for boost and timing.
People think its a cheat, but it isn't. LOL!
If it blinks once you apply throttle and keeps blinking, then that is non-boost or timing mode, or BLINKY mode and it is legal for stock.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:01 AM   #2502
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actually, in the picture of the rear stud mount, the aluminum piece looks to me to have a lower mount point by 1 mm over std plastic. Thus I translate the picture to show him having 2mm at that point. But that's only my observation...

Others are right. These pictures could have been taken during 1st round or practice to show off the new money makers.
I noticed that as well.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:13 AM   #2503
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I am going with what Sean Cochran says he works for Team Associated (he took over for Mike Reedy when he retired!), and I experienced exactly what he said the problem would be with running incorrect tower/arms. If whatever setup worked for your bud, great.

Have fun with your B5m
Hate to re-hash this but I tried it on the local high grip track with the M tower and the straight arms and liked it. Car didn't hook and steering felt more consistent. Engineering-wise it might be all wrong but on the track it helped. I'm planning on more testing when I get my hands on a RM front shock tower.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:14 AM   #2504
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Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:44 AM   #2505
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because you can make it blink when it has boost and timimg.
The "rumor" I heard is that the orions have built in timing alread from the factory in blinky mode. no idea if its true. I do know the orion drivers are not pulling me on the straight...
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