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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:58 PM   #2296
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Doh! The track was getting a bit dry and dusty so my B5m's rear end was starting to kickout a bit coming out of the turns. I needed more grip in the rear so someone told me to remove the spacers from under the rear inner ballstuds. If I want more grip in the rear going through and exiting out of turns do I want to remove the spacers under the rear inner ball studs or put spacers in there?
I can tell you that to get my rear end more under control, I removed the washers from the rear inner camber link stud, and pushed my rear hubs forward. I also went to rear 30 oil, 1.6 pistons, and went to the outside hole for lower rear shock mounting. Definitely helped. I might go down to 27.5 oil in the back and/or an even softer spring (AE black) and see how it feels tomorrow.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:04 PM   #2297
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Look, it costs another $40 to buy all the other front end combinations you can possibly get. Hard arms, flat arms, hard tower, short tower. Not a bad deal.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:19 PM   #2298
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Look, it costs another $40 to buy all the other front end combinations you can possibly get. Hard arms, flat arms, hard tower, short tower. Not a bad deal.
I'm not disagreeing... Just seems AE fitted each car with not the optimal front arms in the box for us. Oh well. Gotta pay to play!
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:21 PM   #2299
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Has anyone been running the hard parts on their cars?? Does it feel any different ?
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:27 PM   #2300
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I can tell you that to get my rear end more under control, I removed the washers from the rear inner camber link stud, and pushed my rear hubs forward. I also went to rear 30 oil, 1.6 pistons, and went to the outside hole for lower rear shock mounting. Definitely helped. I might go down to 27.5 oil in the back and/or an even softer spring (AE black) and see how it feels tomorrow.
That's exactly what I did to, like to the "t". I'm confused now though because Wild Cherry said in the search for more steering to remove the rear inner ballstud shims. But I thought that was supposed to give the rear more grip, not give the front more grip/steering? I may be reading it wrong though.

And I'm on the same page with you about the arms to. All the guys at my track with RM say they are pushing and want the gullwing arms, and the mid motor guys say their cars are feeling twitchy and they want the straight arms.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:32 PM   #2301
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Has anyone been running the hard parts on their cars?? Does it feel any different ?
im running the flat hard arms and tower in front and standards in back and im liking it but i dont have a comparison for the standard flat fronts as i traded front ends with a guy from my track who has the b5 and wanted the gull wing arms.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:40 PM   #2302
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That's exactly what I did to, like to the "t". I'm confused now though because Wild Cherry said in the search for more steering to remove the rear inner ballstud shims. But I thought that was supposed to give the rear more grip, not give the front more grip/steering? I may be reading it wrong though.

And I'm on the same page with you about the arms to. All the guys at my track with RM say they are pushing and want the gullwing arms, and the mid motor guys say their cars are feeling twitchy and they want the straight arms.
Adding ball stud washers under the rear inner camber link (raising the ball stud) is like lengthening the camber link. It's less of a change compared to actually lengthening the camber link by moving the ball stud position. Lengthening the camber link adds side bite, meaning traction "in to" the turn. This allows you to pitch the car in to a turn and it will help to prevent the car from spinning on entry.

Removing ball stud washers under the rear inner camber link (lowering the camber link) is like shortening the camber link. Shortening the camber link adds forward bite, meaning traction "out of " the turn. The car's rear end will square up better on throttle while exiting he turn.

The change does not add or remove rear traction through the entire turn. Like any other change, its a give and take proposition. What you gain in one part of the turn, you're going to lose in the other.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:03 PM   #2303
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Adding ball stud washers under the rear inner camber link (raising the ball stud) is like lengthening the camber link. It's less of a change compared to actually lengthening the camber link by moving the ball stud position. Lengthening the camber link adds side bite, meaning traction "in to" the turn. This allows you to pitch the car in to a turn and it will help to prevent the car from spinning on entry.

Removing ball stud washers under the rear inner camber link (lowering the camber link) is like shortening the camber link. Shortening the camber link adds forward bite, meaning traction "out of " the turn. The car's rear end will square up better on throttle while exiting he turn.

The change does not add or remove rear traction through the entire turn. Like any other change, its a give and take proposition. What you gain in one part of the turn, you're going to lose in the other.
Now I get it. Perfect, thanks for the clarification. I think I need to put the washers back then. When the track started to dry out and I would come hot into turns the rear end was coming around on entry. Exiting the corner was fine though.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:19 PM   #2304
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http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/Basi...ing/index.html

one of my favorite tuning pages... thanks mark pavidis
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:21 PM   #2305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b5m_manual
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting
the ball end height on the rear chassis brace. Shortening the camber link
(or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less roll and the car will tend to
accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball
end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip
and then right from the associated b5m manual.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:35 PM   #2306
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and then right from the associated b5m manual.
Nice, I gotta pull my manual out and do some reading!
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:48 PM   #2307
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Originally Posted by rigor View Post
I can tell you that to get my rear end more under control, I removed the washers from the rear inner camber link stud, and pushed my rear hubs forward. I also went to rear 30 oil, 1.6 pistons, and went to the outside hole for lower rear shock mounting. Definitely helped. I might go down to 27.5 oil in the back and/or an even softer spring (AE black) and see how it feels tomorrow.
Please keep me updated. Im gonna try a couple of the things you listed. Already moved the hubs forwards and that helped a little.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:20 PM   #2308
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Please keep me updated. Im gonna try a couple of the things you listed. Already moved the hubs forwards and that helped a little.
Maybe try a stiffer spring to see what it does, I'm running grey front white rear. I think the rear needs the support so the suspension doesn't roll over too much, seen as hooking. I race at a really tight track with lots of 180's though, so I need the car very reactive.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:53 PM   #2309
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Maybe try a stiffer spring to see what it does, I'm running grey front white rear. I think the rear needs the support so the suspension doesn't roll over too much, seen as hooking. I race at a really tight track with lots of 180's though, so I need the car very reactive.
Sharp turns / 180's is where I was having the most issue. I got my hands on front flat arms today. Hoping OCRC still has the front tower tomorrow when I go back to run and tune most of the day.

EDIT: Wait... Is it the same front shock tower for both the B5R and B5M ?? I heard a different tower was needed for each front arm type ?? I can't go wrench for another few hours to find out the answer :P
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:00 PM   #2310
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Maybe try a stiffer spring to see what it does, I'm running grey front white rear. I think the rear needs the support so the suspension doesn't roll over too much, seen as hooking. I race at a really tight track with lots of 180's though, so I need the car very reactive.
What oils & pistons you running ? Thanks
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