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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:13 AM   #21076
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Originally Posted by sgtlt View Post
tried mine, not as tight of a fit in the front but it's looks like it will work fine
Then go for it if you like the fit.
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Old 07-29-2017, 07:12 PM   #21077
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Raced this buggy for the first time on Friday night for a club race and did really good I thought. Having not raced indoor in multiplier years and just running this new to me buggy one day last week I ended up 3rd overall in sportsman 17.5. Qualified 6th and got to 1st.. got nervous and crashed back to 3rd. I can't wait to get more time with this buggy. It been AWESOME so far.
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Old 08-15-2017, 03:00 PM   #21078
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Since I've now started experimenting with setups finally on my SCTs, I figured it's time to take a look at my B5M as well. Originally I built it basically as per manual as well as a I could (as it was my first car). I was driving indoors at the time, and a few guys readjusted the shock preload to be a lot less than what manual suggested. So, it ended up being a quite low ride height indeed in retrospect.

Where it gets funky is that I've been driving with it outdoors now, on a low/medium-grip clay track that is basically a 1/8 track - still with the same darn setup! I must say it has worked surprisingly well, but I suppose I've probably been slamming the chassis to the ground and thus scratching it more than would be necessary As the summer has progressed the track has gotten all the bumpier for it due to lack of maintenance, which isn't helping any especially with a 1/10 buggy.

Tomorrow will be "2WD day" as far as my practise session goes, because I noticed today with my SC10 2WD that I've been driving 4WD too much recently. Bad habits learned from that meant a stuck-in-a-ditch or belly-up 2WD every damn lap! So anyway, gonna test out the B5M with the more approriate ride height. It's probably at least 1cm higher now, I kid you not - rear level CVA, front level inner and outer hinge pins as per manual - not sure why my manual says "or 24mm" because at those levels it's much higher. Also not sure why the preload levels in the assembly phase is just 4mm and 7mm, because those sure as heck don't get the CVAs/pins level.

Not sure if there's any other adjustments I should try while at it. Shock mount holes are standard, shock oils are standard (and way overdue for a refill), etc. But I suppose it's best to test the ride height first, since it is a rather drastic change.
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Old 08-16-2017, 03:15 PM   #21079
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Well, the new ride height worked nicely, landing jumps was a lot less "slappy", though there's still some of that given it's not really a 1/10 track.

Gotta say, it's funny that I often see people say that SC is easier than buggy, but again today it was so much easier to be consistent with the B5M compared to the SC10. I drove about 2 hours with each, and the buggy was just easier. Sure, it's a newer model than the SC10, but the same has been said when it was still current.

I've been thinking of doing a diff check on the B5M because it hasn't been touched since the initial build, but been putting it off. What got me doing it right now is I realized there was likely to be no oil in it. When I was still driving indoors I noticed some oil on the rear of the car, somehow I thought it was shock leak, but in retrospect I think I just forgot that there was oil in the diff, because the location made it obvious it was the diff. Well, now to hope that it'll keep the oil in after assembly, and having said oil surely shouldn't be detrimental to driving performance either
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Old 08-16-2017, 05:09 PM   #21080
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Eh, I don't get it. Why is it that every time I rebuild a gear diff, it ends up much too tight? Happened with both diffs in the SC10 4x4, and now with the B5M. I had to remove the sun gear shims in the 4x4 to get the diffs to spin like they did prior to rebuilding. Feels like I'd need to remove one of the two shims on each side in this case, too. Requires way too much force to spin the diff. Having built 4 new gear diffs (the B5M's, and three for the SCTE 3.0) there was never any problem, but these rebuilds...
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:12 PM   #21081
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Default diff

does anyone know where to get a diff rebuild kit? it is on backorder at multiple sites i checked online.
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:29 PM   #21082
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Associated's site shows them in stock

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7677-ASC7677-diff_rebuild_kit/
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:25 PM   #21083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvih View Post
Eh, I don't get it. Why is it that every time I rebuild a gear diff, it ends up much too tight? Happened with both diffs in the SC10 4x4, and now with the B5M. I had to remove the sun gear shims in the 4x4 to get the diffs to spin like they did prior to rebuilding. Feels like I'd need to remove one of the two shims on each side in this case, too. Requires way too much force to spin the diff. Having built 4 new gear diffs (the B5M's, and three for the SCTE 3.0) there was never any problem, but these rebuilds...
There's a lip on the top of the sun gear that should be sanded smooth, before assembly. I built the gear diffs for my B5m and B6 this way, and they are butter smooth.
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Old 08-17-2017, 12:48 PM   #21084
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Originally Posted by tvih View Post
Eh, I don't get it. Why is it that every time I rebuild a gear diff, it ends up much too tight? Happened with both diffs in the SC10 4x4, and now with the B5M. I had to remove the sun gear shims in the 4x4 to get the diffs to spin like they did prior to rebuilding. Feels like I'd need to remove one of the two shims on each side in this case, too. Requires way too much force to spin the diff. Having built 4 new gear diffs (the B5M's, and three for the SCTE 3.0) there was never any problem, but these rebuilds...
Are you replacing the o-rings? They swell over time and compress the gears together.
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:32 AM   #21085
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Default B5m x factory infinity

The B5m with the x factory infinity chassis runs way better on clay tracks idk if it's the flex but the cornering is 50% better than my b6. Does anyone else run this chassis?
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:38 AM   #21086
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Originally Posted by FREAKYTALES View Post
The B5m with the x factory infinity chassis runs way better on clay tracks idk if it's the flex but the cornering is 50% better than my b6. Does anyone else run this chassis?
Not running it on my B5m, but have the longer version on my SC5m and freaking love it on our carpet track.. only 1 truck in class is even close to cornering as well as me and he's a highly modified sc5m with a b6 laydown..
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:17 AM   #21087
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Hey all,

Been running my B5M FL on a rough outdoor track with the box stock setup and been having trouble keeping touch with the quickest cars and need some advice as I don't know which way to start my tuning. I know I should play around with some settings but I don't have enough time and would like to tweak and race to see how the car reacts and hope there is a good "rough track with looser/hard base dirt" setup out there. The car flies around the track but gets bucked around on some of the rougher sections when I push harder to keep up with top guys. Track gets slick when it dries out but there is still some fluff on top, and top guys are running rear motor buggies. Here is the gist of my stock setup:

Proline Ribbed front tires, blockade M3 rears.
1.6 pistons F/R w/ 32.5wt oil
3.30 white front springs, 2.10 white rear springs. arms/bones level ride height.
battery all the way back.

Let me know any adjustments are recommended or typical for rougher outdoor tracks, or any more setup info is needed (it's all box stock right now). I might try the brass D block to add some weight in the rear and maybe go to 27.5 or 30wt oil in the back shocks.
thanks!
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Old 08-21-2017, 01:52 PM   #21088
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Probably time to consider green springs in rear or possibly a piston change to 1.7 or 3x1.4

Go to the first post of this thread, find the petitrc link and get to the setup sheets. I believe you will find a Ray Munday sheet in there for outdoor tracks.
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:37 PM   #21089
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Originally Posted by hord1080 View Post
Hey all,

Been running my B5M FL on a rough outdoor track with the box stock setup and been having trouble keeping touch with the quickest cars and need some advice as I don't know which way to start my tuning. I know I should play around with some settings but I don't have enough time and would like to tweak and race to see how the car reacts and hope there is a good "rough track with looser/hard base dirt" setup out there. The car flies around the track but gets bucked around on some of the rougher sections when I push harder to keep up with top guys. Track gets slick when it dries out but there is still some fluff on top, and top guys are running rear motor buggies. Here is the gist of my stock setup:

Proline Ribbed front tires, blockade M3 rears.
1.6 pistons F/R w/ 32.5wt oil
3.30 white front springs, 2.10 white rear springs. arms/bones level ride height.
battery all the way back.

Let me know any adjustments are recommended or typical for rougher outdoor tracks, or any more setup info is needed (it's all box stock right now). I might try the brass D block to add some weight in the rear and maybe go to 27.5 or 30wt oil in the back shocks.
thanks!
A 4 gear transmission is a must in my opinion for an outdoor track. I also recommend Ray Munday' s outdoor set up guide for the B5m. Another thing to consider is getting yourself the B5m to B5 conversion kit. You can get it for $40 on AE's website.
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:55 PM   #21090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hord1080 View Post
Hey all,

Been running my B5M FL on a rough outdoor track with the box stock setup and been having trouble keeping touch with the quickest cars and need some advice as I don't know which way to start my tuning. I know I should play around with some settings but I don't have enough time and would like to tweak and race to see how the car reacts and hope there is a good "rough track with looser/hard base dirt" setup out there. The car flies around the track but gets bucked around on some of the rougher sections when I push harder to keep up with top guys. Track gets slick when it dries out but there is still some fluff on top, and top guys are running rear motor buggies. Here is the gist of my stock setup:

Proline Ribbed front tires, blockade M3 rears.
1.6 pistons F/R w/ 32.5wt oil
3.30 white front springs, 2.10 white rear springs. arms/bones level ride height.
battery all the way back.

Let me know any adjustments are recommended or typical for rougher outdoor tracks, or any more setup info is needed (it's all box stock right now). I might try the brass D block to add some weight in the rear and maybe go to 27.5 or 30wt oil in the back shocks.
thanks!
Hi mate, the B5m is a weapon on outdoor tracks and in my experience was faster than the rear motor cars once the setup was sorted. For those conditions I would recommend:
- Brass C block
- Maybe brass D block (for really low grip)
- Green springs front and rear
- 1.7mm pistons front and rear (37wt ft / 30 wt rr). Make sure you have fresh shock seals (best to use the X-rings) as this really makes a difference on these tracks. Also make sure the slipper has been set correctly (just enough to lift the front wheels if you hold the rear wheels on the ground).

As mentioned above I put together a setup guide for the B5M on outdoor tracks. See here:
Team Associated B5M - Ray Munday - Setup Guide - Mar. 2015

Hope this helps!

Ray



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
Probably time to consider green springs in rear or possibly a piston change to 1.7 or 3x1.4

Go to the first post of this thread, find the petitrc link and get to the setup sheets. I believe you will find a Ray Munday sheet in there for outdoor tracks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by _danimal_ View Post
A 4 gear transmission is a must in my opinion for an outdoor track. I also recommend Ray Munday' s outdoor set up guide for the B5m. Another thing to consider is getting yourself the B5m to B5 conversion kit. You can get it for $40 on AE's website.
Thanks for the shoutout guys.
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