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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-14-2017, 12:59 AM   #20956
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Originally Posted by intercede007 View Post
Newbie here.

The suspension tuning guide I've been using says to move the shock position in on the tower for low grip surfaces for more body roll and out for high grip surfaces and less body roll.

Tower. Moving the shock in on the tower will make the shock feel more progressive i.e.; initially it will feel softer, but increasing in stiffness as the shock compresses. If the track is slippery, move the shock in on the tower to add body roll and overall traction.

Looking at the B5M setup sheets for high grip indoor tracks the cars are both running the inside position for the rear shocks.

Is there a relationship that I'm missing? Under what conditions would someone move the shock position inward on the tower?

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...anen_Reedy.pdf
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c..._JC_Winter.pdf
Instead of just copying set-up sheets of the internet, get the Team Associated Cheat Sheets app on your phone. It goes into detail about what changes do what. Teach a man to fish............
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Old 01-29-2017, 02:53 PM   #20957
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Team Associated B5m after market parts lot
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:43 PM   #20958
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It goes into detail about what changes do what. Teach a man to fish............
You didn't read what I wrote, did you? I asked about the detail not lining up with the expectations. I've been taught how to fish. I'm asking which lure works best for a certain species.....
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:37 PM   #20959
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Ok guys sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried using the B6D steering blocks and caster blocks on the B5M. Would love to get rid of as much of that slop in the front end, and getting rid of the inserts will be awesome. Yes I know you can glue them, just want to get rid of margins of error.
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Old 02-02-2017, 03:59 PM   #20960
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Ok guys sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried using the B6D steering blocks and caster blocks on the B5M. Would love to get rid of as much of that slop in the front end, and getting rid of the inserts will be awesome. Yes I know you can glue them, just want to get rid of margins of error.
I used the hard option parts to reduce slop. They wear a lot slower than the normal plastic.
cos we race on dirt I also use fresh arms regularly as the holes get bigger due to the fine dust wearing inside the holes as they rub on the pins.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:05 AM   #20961
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I am still trying to pin down my gearing. This is what I am running right now: 69/32, 3 gear tranny, stock 17.5, Fantom FR1 motor. My temps have plenty of room. Track conditions range from loose/dusty to med-high groove. This platform lists a 2.6:1 internal gear ratio. My current gearing give me a FDR of 5.61

What is the popular spur/pinion choice for this car in 17.5 stock outdoor dirt?
Does the internal gear ratio change when swapping between 3 gear and 4 gear config?

I also own the T5m and SC5m. The ST runs in 17.5 stock and the SCT is in open mod. SC has a 8.5 motor. These all have the same internal ratio. Obviously, the rollout is different due to tire size. Should my FDR be close to that of the B5m when I'm done or should the number be higher? Example...my SC5 is running 84/20 with 10.92 FDR.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:20 AM   #20962
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Internal ratio is the same 3 or 4 gear. temps will greatly depend on where you timing is set on the motor as well as your gearing. T5M final drive will be different, easiest thing to do is start at manual gearing for 17.5 for both vehicles, adjust timing if you want more motor
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:32 PM   #20963
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Anyone have any experience with the Hot Racing TVS vented slipper conversion? Good/bad? I am currently running an exotek slipper eliminator. I know when I weighed the stock slipper assembly vs. the exotek; the exotek was lighter and shaved some weight. I would guess this slipper would weigh more than the exotek. Does anyone know if this weighs more than the stock slipper?

Will my standard AE spur gears work or do I need to buy a special aftermarket spur? Lastly, does the standard AE bell cover fit or is another one required?
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:04 PM   #20964
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Originally Posted by freezeframe007 View Post
Anyone have any experience with the Hot Racing TVS vented slipper conversion? Good/bad? I am currently running an exotek slipper eliminator. I know when I weighed the stock slipper assembly vs. the exotek; the exotek was lighter and shaved some weight. I would guess this slipper would weigh more than the exotek. Does anyone know if this weighs more than the stock slipper?

Will my standard AE spur gears work or do I need to buy a special aftermarket spur? Lastly, does the standard AE bell cover fit or is another one required?





Your better off getting the Schelle slipper clutch kit its proven and good I think they might have vented slipper disk as a hop up .

Schelle makes slipper eliminater.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:46 PM   #20965
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What size flat sensor wire is needed for the B5m with 3-gear setup ? 150mm ?
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Old 02-11-2017, 09:21 AM   #20966
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What size flat sensor wire is needed for the B5m with 3-gear setup ? 150mm ?
In theory isnt it the same whether 3 or 4 gear? 175mm I think if your route the sensor wire perfectly under the battery.
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Old 02-11-2017, 11:07 PM   #20967
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Hey guys, been searching through the thread but haven't really found an answer. I'm looking to throw a laydown in my B5M but not sure whether to go with the YZ2 or shapeways conversion. I was looking for any insight you may have as far as quality and durability of the shapeways, and what your experiences have been with either. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-12-2017, 12:26 AM   #20968
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Originally Posted by fastman316 View Post
Hey guys, been searching through the thread but haven't really found an answer. I'm looking to throw a laydown in my B5M but not sure whether to go with the YZ2 or shapeways conversion. I was looking for any insight you may have as far as quality and durability of the shapeways, and what your experiences have been with either. Thanks in advance
Both require that you have some basic fabrication skills, drill bit, a counter sink.

Yz2 + excellent quality parts.
Replacements are easily sourced.
More durable parts.
Option for front mounted shocks(requires YZ2 tower)

- More expensive.
requires more fabrication.
cut AE idler will not fit.

Shapeways + Slightly cheaper.
Less holes to drill.
All AE trans parts drop in.

- Bearing clearance.
Weaker parts.
No front shock mount option.

Really it kinda depends on the surface you plan on running. If its high grip
carpet then a front mounted shock might be a big deal for you. If its astro
or high grip clay then maybe the simpler shapeways will be a better option.

Finish either off with some adjustable axle height B6 hubs and you have a
pretty competitive car.
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:35 AM   #20969
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Originally Posted by Bulltipper View Post
Ok guys sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried using the B6D steering blocks and caster blocks on the B5M. Would love to get rid of as much of that slop in the front end, and getting rid of the inserts will be awesome. Yes I know you can glue them, just want to get rid of margins of error.
I'm running this setup. You will also have to buy the B6 axle/hex because it's 1 mm longer between the bearings. You should also run the B6 hat bushings as the fit is very tight tolerance on the B6.
The mod does reduce most of the front end slop. Stick with the B5 ball ends on the camber links, they last longer than the B6 ball cups.
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Old 02-14-2017, 11:33 AM   #20970
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I've been reading for a few weeks on tuning/setups and have seen the setup sheets (I don't have a phone more intelligent than me).

My question is what is the order of operations for making adjustments? I bought my care used so I have no idea what wt oil is in the shocks, etc. I am going to take the front end apart and copy a setup sheet and eventually change the oil. It had probably -4 degree camber in the rear so I took that down to -1 and again it helped but still pretty easy to break loose.

My issue is the car has no rear traction when I try to accelerate just whips donuts. Am I just being too punchy on the throttle?

I've loosened up my slipper which helped and tried a few set of tires but it's still really loose. Do I start w/ changing the gearing and going up a few teeth? My motor after 20 minutes is only 90 degrees. It does not have an adjustable end bell...

Do I leave everything as is and change the oil out to like 35 in front and 30 in the rear?
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