Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Just installed the shapeways laydown tranny. I hope it makes as big a difference as people describe.
Tech Regular
Interested to see how it performs. I too was looking into that Laydown.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Does anyone else have a problem with 1 of the 4 screws in the front bulkhead always coming lose? I have replaced the top plate 3 times and tried locktite but the same screw (only 1) keeps coming loose over a run.
Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Does anyone else have a problem with 1 of the 4 screws in the front bulkhead always coming lose? I have replaced the top plate 3 times and tried locktite but the same screw (only 1) keeps coming loose over a run.
Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Hard to say as of now. Some kid was driving a rental vehicle and kept cutting the track and getting in my way (unable to put down a hot lap) . I tried getting around him on the wall ride (I was driving pissed off) I clipped the pipe on the wall and landed on on one of the front wheels which broke the spindle. The shop was out and I forgot a new set at home. Can't give you a decent review. Coming soon tho.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Does anyone else have a problem with 1 of the 4 screws in the front bulkhead always coming lose? I have replaced the top plate 3 times and tried locktite but the same screw (only 1) keeps coming loose over a run.
Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Tech Apprentice
Newbie here.
The suspension tuning guide I've been using says to move the shock position in on the tower for low grip surfaces for more body roll and out for high grip surfaces and less body roll.
Tower. Moving the shock in on the tower will make the shock feel more progressive i.e.; initially it will feel softer, but increasing in stiffness as the shock compresses. If the track is slippery, move the shock in on the tower to add body roll and overall traction.
Looking at the B5M setup sheets for high grip indoor tracks the cars are both running the inside position for the rear shocks.
Is there a relationship that I'm missing? Under what conditions would someone move the shock position inward on the tower?
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...anen_Reedy.pdf
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c..._JC_Winter.pdf
The suspension tuning guide I've been using says to move the shock position in on the tower for low grip surfaces for more body roll and out for high grip surfaces and less body roll.
Tower. Moving the shock in on the tower will make the shock feel more progressive i.e.; initially it will feel softer, but increasing in stiffness as the shock compresses. If the track is slippery, move the shock in on the tower to add body roll and overall traction.
Looking at the B5M setup sheets for high grip indoor tracks the cars are both running the inside position for the rear shocks.
Is there a relationship that I'm missing? Under what conditions would someone move the shock position inward on the tower?
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...anen_Reedy.pdf
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c..._JC_Winter.pdf
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Newbie here.
The suspension tuning guide I've been using says to move the shock position in on the tower for low grip surfaces for more body roll and out for high grip surfaces and less body roll.
Tower. Moving the shock in on the tower will make the shock feel more progressive i.e.; initially it will feel softer, but increasing in stiffness as the shock compresses. If the track is slippery, move the shock in on the tower to add body roll and overall traction.
Looking at the B5M setup sheets for high grip indoor tracks the cars are both running the inside position for the rear shocks.
Is there a relationship that I'm missing? Under what conditions would someone move the shock position inward on the tower?
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...anen_Reedy.pdf
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c..._JC_Winter.pdf
The suspension tuning guide I've been using says to move the shock position in on the tower for low grip surfaces for more body roll and out for high grip surfaces and less body roll.
Tower. Moving the shock in on the tower will make the shock feel more progressive i.e.; initially it will feel softer, but increasing in stiffness as the shock compresses. If the track is slippery, move the shock in on the tower to add body roll and overall traction.
Looking at the B5M setup sheets for high grip indoor tracks the cars are both running the inside position for the rear shocks.
Is there a relationship that I'm missing? Under what conditions would someone move the shock position inward on the tower?
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...anen_Reedy.pdf
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c..._JC_Winter.pdf
Tech Apprentice
You didn't read what I wrote, did you? I asked about the detail not lining up with the expectations. I've been taught how to fish. I'm asking which lure works best for a certain species.....
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
Ok guys sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried using the B6D steering blocks and caster blocks on the B5M. Would love to get rid of as much of that slop in the front end, and getting rid of the inserts will be awesome. Yes I know you can glue them, just want to get rid of margins of error.
Ok guys sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried using the B6D steering blocks and caster blocks on the B5M. Would love to get rid of as much of that slop in the front end, and getting rid of the inserts will be awesome. Yes I know you can glue them, just want to get rid of margins of error.
cos we race on dirt I also use fresh arms regularly as the holes get bigger due to the fine dust wearing inside the holes as they rub on the pins.
Tech Adept
I am still trying to pin down my gearing. This is what I am running right now: 69/32, 3 gear tranny, stock 17.5, Fantom FR1 motor. My temps have plenty of room. Track conditions range from loose/dusty to med-high groove. This platform lists a 2.6:1 internal gear ratio. My current gearing give me a FDR of 5.61
What is the popular spur/pinion choice for this car in 17.5 stock outdoor dirt?
Does the internal gear ratio change when swapping between 3 gear and 4 gear config?
I also own the T5m and SC5m. The ST runs in 17.5 stock and the SCT is in open mod. SC has a 8.5 motor. These all have the same internal ratio. Obviously, the rollout is different due to tire size. Should my FDR be close to that of the B5m when I'm done or should the number be higher? Example...my SC5 is running 84/20 with 10.92 FDR.
What is the popular spur/pinion choice for this car in 17.5 stock outdoor dirt?
Does the internal gear ratio change when swapping between 3 gear and 4 gear config?
I also own the T5m and SC5m. The ST runs in 17.5 stock and the SCT is in open mod. SC has a 8.5 motor. These all have the same internal ratio. Obviously, the rollout is different due to tire size. Should my FDR be close to that of the B5m when I'm done or should the number be higher? Example...my SC5 is running 84/20 with 10.92 FDR.
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
Internal ratio is the same 3 or 4 gear. temps will greatly depend on where you timing is set on the motor as well as your gearing. T5M final drive will be different, easiest thing to do is start at manual gearing for 17.5 for both vehicles, adjust timing if you want more motor
Tech Adept
Anyone have any experience with the Hot Racing TVS vented slipper conversion? Good/bad? I am currently running an exotek slipper eliminator. I know when I weighed the stock slipper assembly vs. the exotek; the exotek was lighter and shaved some weight. I would guess this slipper would weigh more than the exotek. Does anyone know if this weighs more than the stock slipper?
Will my standard AE spur gears work or do I need to buy a special aftermarket spur? Lastly, does the standard AE bell cover fit or is another one required?
Will my standard AE spur gears work or do I need to buy a special aftermarket spur? Lastly, does the standard AE bell cover fit or is another one required?