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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:44 PM   #20941
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Originally Posted by jnyrcr View Post
The 4 rear holes, there's 2 more in the front, you don't use the water fall, there's pictures in the link above.
Ok thanks, I have one. Yet to install. So if others are able to run it with success just running the four rear then I might try it, that's how the oem tranny is bolted on, so makes sense.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:04 PM   #20942
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Default Gearing for B5m Help! Thanks!

I am somewhat new to the hobby and got my second B5m and just got a reedy sonic m3 13.5. my question is what gearing is a recommended start point. I generally ride on hard pack clay with pretty good traction. A bit more open tracks. For my stock buggy I was told by someone to run 35/69 with my sonic 17.5. Not sure where to go with the 13.5 no ESC boost or anthing but my push the timing on the motor a little bit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

my setup
B5M kit
Savox Server
Reedy Sonic M3 13.5
LRP Competition ESC

also would a 35/72 be a okay gearing. cause its currently the only spur I have onhand but i can obviously get more at the track next time I go.
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:06 AM   #20943
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I am somewhat new to the hobby and got my second B5m and just got a reedy sonic m3 13.5. my question is what gearing is a recommended start point. I generally ride on hard pack clay with pretty good traction. A bit more open tracks. For my stock buggy I was told by someone to run 35/69 with my sonic 17.5. Not sure where to go with the 13.5 no ESC boost or anthing but my push the timing on the motor a little bit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

my setup
B5M kit
Savox Server
Reedy Sonic M3 13.5
LRP Competition ESC

also would a 35/72 be a okay gearing. cause its currently the only spur I have onhand but i can obviously get more at the track next time I go.
Seems fine. I currently run 30/75 stays below 140, like any other motor. Watch your temps and adjust gearing accordingly.
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:43 AM   #20944
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go to rc10.com and download the manual, it says 30/75 for 13.5...
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:03 AM   #20945
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Ohh to get the right final drive with different spurs just take spur/pinion x 2.60(drive ratio) that gives you the final drive
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:11 AM   #20946
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Ohh to get the right final drive with different spurs just take spur/pinion x 2.60(drive ratio) that gives you the final drive
Just wondering what the final gear ratio actually means? In other words how is it helpful and how do I apply the information? I understand how to gear up and down and how temps and top speeds are affected, just not sure how to apply the numbers into real life track senarios. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:23 AM   #20947
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Originally Posted by czrlaker View Post
Just wondering what the final gear ratio actually means? In other words how is it helpful and how do I apply the information? I understand how to gear up and down and how temps and top speeds are affected, just not sure how to apply the numbers into real life track senarios. Thanks in advance.
I just gave you the formula to help get you to the right final drive the manual recommends.. ex is 17.5 recommend 69/31 final drive is 5.79:1 so if you go down a tooth final drive is 5.98:1 the higher the final drive the more bottom end(torque), the lower the more top end
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:29 AM   #20948
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
I just gave you the formula to help get you to the right final drive the manual recommends.. ex is 17.5 recommend 69/31 final drive is 5.79:1 so if you go down a tooth final drive is 5.98:1 the higher the final drive the more bottom end(torque), the lower the more top end
Thanks,
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Old 01-06-2017, 05:06 PM   #20949
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Just installed the shapeways laydown tranny. I hope it makes as big a difference as people describe.
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:51 AM   #20950
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Interested to see how it performs. I too was looking into that Laydown.
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Old 01-07-2017, 10:18 PM   #20951
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Does anyone else have a problem with 1 of the 4 screws in the front bulkhead always coming lose? I have replaced the top plate 3 times and tried locktite but the same screw (only 1) keeps coming loose over a run.

Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:27 PM   #20952
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Does anyone else have a problem with 1 of the 4 screws in the front bulkhead always coming lose? I have replaced the top plate 3 times and tried locktite but the same screw (only 1) keeps coming loose over a run.

Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
I have never had that problem. Running the strc aluminum one no locktite. But I also have a chassis protector so that might help out.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:34 PM   #20953
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Interested to see how it performs. I too was looking into that Laydown.
Hard to say as of now. Some kid was driving a rental vehicle and kept cutting the track and getting in my way (unable to put down a hot lap) . I tried getting around him on the wall ride (I was driving pissed off) I clipped the pipe on the wall and landed on on one of the front wheels which broke the spindle. The shop was out and I forgot a new set at home. Can't give you a decent review. Coming soon tho.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:02 AM   #20954
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Originally Posted by tylem28 View Post
Does anyone else have a problem with 1 of the 4 screws in the front bulkhead always coming lose? I have replaced the top plate 3 times and tried locktite but the same screw (only 1) keeps coming loose over a run.

Anyone running an aluminum front bulkhead? Does this solve the issue if so? What is the best bulkhead to use?
Those screws go into plastic. It's funny it's doing it even after you replaced the top plate.unless u replaced something else. Anyway put some of your tire glue on it then thread it in and let it sit at least 15 minutes. Just snug the screw up it's easier to strip when there is wet glue on it
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:41 PM   #20955
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Newbie here.

The suspension tuning guide I've been using says to move the shock position in on the tower for low grip surfaces for more body roll and out for high grip surfaces and less body roll.

Tower. Moving the shock in on the tower will make the shock feel more progressive i.e.; initially it will feel softer, but increasing in stiffness as the shock compresses. If the track is slippery, move the shock in on the tower to add body roll and overall traction.

Looking at the B5M setup sheets for high grip indoor tracks the cars are both running the inside position for the rear shocks.

Is there a relationship that I'm missing? Under what conditions would someone move the shock position inward on the tower?

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...anen_Reedy.pdf
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c..._JC_Winter.pdf
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