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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:29 AM   #20911
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Also, if you aren't using any tire sauce, it will make a huge difference. Brand new tires are slippery and no sauce will make it even worse.
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:30 AM   #20912
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Also, if you aren't using any tire sauce, it will make a huge difference. Brand new tires are slippery and no sauce will make it even worse.
Yes. I was running new tires, No prep, No tire sauce. I'll have to pick some up.
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Old 12-14-2016, 04:59 PM   #20913
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Just got a b5m lite to toy with the 1/10 class, plus there is a carpet track within 5 miles of my place. Just want to do stock class, but unsure what are some decent motor options that work well with a HW justock esc? Not looking to break the bank, just looking to have something that I'm gonna get floored on the straight either.
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:22 PM   #20914
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Originally Posted by Calde315 View Post
Just got a b5m lite to toy with the 1/10 class, plus there is a carpet track within 5 miles of my place. Just want to do stock class, but unsure what are some decent motor options that work well with a HW justock esc? Not looking to break the bank, just looking to have something that I'm gonna get floored on the straight either.
Love this motor, VERY happy with it
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopowe...p-8000/p360110
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:50 PM   #20915
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Oh stock racing.....
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:36 PM   #20916
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what size motors are most of you running for high bite clay / carpet? 25ish second lap times?

Currently running a 9.5T Fantom. Wondering if I would be better suited to run a 6.5, 7.5, or 8t even...
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Old 12-17-2016, 10:21 AM   #20917
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I just put in and raced my B5M lite with the 3 gear AC RC Gear laydown transmission via Shapeways. Holy Cow! I can now carry so much speed in the corners - our track has a big fast sweeper. I picked up two laps per 6 minute run. The car felt very smooth and easy to drive. I was able to TQ both heats and win the main at our Weds night club race. The car also felt like it had a lot of punch. I run 13.5 with boost. Glad I spent the $60 to make my B5M a contender again. I was running slower than the 22 3.0 and B6Ds with laydowns. Now I do not see the need to buy the B6D as I have a lot of money already in my B5M and it is competitive.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:09 AM   #20918
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Just picked up a B5M CE for my 7 yo old for Xmas, bloody good things especially when they can be had so cheap 2nd hand, also the Jcon S2 body really set's it off. Electronics layout isnt as roomy as the B6D.



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Old 12-18-2016, 03:51 AM   #20919
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a lot of people cut out the cross brace behind your receiver/esc..gives a little extra space
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:32 PM   #20920
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I just got a lot of B5m parts and there is an Exotek aluminum top shaft. I see that is a larger diameter than the FL and MIP top shafts. I have bearings that will fit, but my question is how does it stay centered in the gear box? It seems like it needs a spacer between the gear and bearing. The FL and MIP have a stop built in. Photo: Top MIP, Factory Lite, and then Exotek.

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Old 12-20-2016, 11:10 PM   #20921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larsif View Post
I just put in and raced my B5M lite with the 3 gear AC RC Gear laydown transmission via Shapeways. Holy Cow! I can now carry so much speed in the corners - our track has a big fast sweeper. I picked up two laps per 6 minute run. The car felt very smooth and easy to drive. I was able to TQ both heats and win the main at our Weds night club race. The car also felt like it had a lot of punch. I run 13.5 with boost. Glad I spent the $60 to make my B5M a contender again. I was running slower than the 22 3.0 and B6Ds with laydowns. Now I do not see the need to buy the B6D as I have a lot of money already in my B5M and it is competitive.
Where did you get the template? I have a shapeway laydown tranny but have been reluctant to install because I don't have a template. Do you have an electronic version of it by any chance?
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:05 AM   #20922
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Originally Posted by Greenbandit View Post
I just got a lot of B5m parts and there is an Exotek aluminum top shaft. I see that is a larger diameter than the FL and MIP top shafts. I have bearings that will fit, but my question is how does it stay centered in the gear box? It seems like it needs a spacer between the gear and bearing. The FL and MIP have a stop built in. Photo: Top MIP, Factory Lite, and then Exotek.

Looks like you are missing the sleeve that slides on the shaft to space it correctly.

I have one on my bench, I can take a picture of it, later tonight, if needed.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:12 AM   #20923
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asc 91426 top shaft spacer.
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Old 12-21-2016, 03:10 PM   #20924
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Where did you get the template? I have a shapeway laydown tranny but have been reluctant to install because I don't have a template. Do you have an electronic version of it by any chance?
I put a piece of white paper over the bottom of the transmission case with the two halves bolted together. I then rubbed a pencil over the paper placed on the bottom mounting holes of the case. I cut out this template and then lined it up on the bottom of my chassis. I used a hole punch to mark the center of the holes that needed to be drilled in the chassis. I started with a drill smaller than 1/8" and then finished with a 1/8" drill bit. I then used a countersunk drill bit to slowly remove material to have the mounting bolt sit flush with the chassis. Measure and measure again before drilling.
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Old 12-21-2016, 03:11 PM   #20925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larsif View Post
I put a piece of white paper over the bottom of the transmission case with the two halves bolted together. I then rubbed a pencil over the paper placed on the bottom mounting holes of the case. I cut out this template and then lined it up on the bottom of my chassis. I used a hole punch to mark the center of the holes that needed to be drilled in the chassis. I started with a drill smaller than 1/8" and then finished with a 1/8" drill bit. I then used a countersunk drill bit to slowly remove material to have the mounting bolt sit flush with the chassis. Measure and measure again before drilling.
Thanks, I'll give it a try
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