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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:33 PM   #20881
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
anyone try to mount a b6 laydwn tranny in the 5m?
I made a B6 lay down conversion on mine. It works very well and total cost was around $65.
You will need B6 lay down conversion, B6 top shaft and MIP16085 shim kit

The bottom of the B6 case needs to be ground at the bottom and cut at the lowest case bolt hole. Highlighted in silver in the pictures

The tail of the B6 case needs to be cut to length and drilled to attach at ball stud mount. I used the 2mm servo spacer to layout the holes and shim between the ball stud mount and trans case.

The chassis needs 4 holes drilled and countersunk. use the holes highlighted in pics to mount.

The c-mount needs modified as well to clear the trans case.

Finally I used a piece on aluminum to make a new battery hold down.
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Last edited by ESocket; 12-04-2016 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:07 PM   #20882
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Picked up a used B5m off eBay to race this indoor season. I have only raced touring cars so this will be my first experience with dirt. Not completely sure what has been done to the car as far as upgrades for racing but I know it was raced. I will be racing the car in the 2wd mod-buggy class with a Orion R10 ESC, and LRP Vector x12 13.5t motor. I have a fair amount of questions if y'all could help me answer them.

- What is the minimum weight for mod-buggy? The track runs ROAR rules.
- What upgrades would be best for this car? Puck system, Avid triad system, light weight top shaft, etc?
- What is a good general final drive ratio?

Thanks for any assistants,

Here is a picture off eBay of the car. Still waiting on it to arrive in the mail.
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Last edited by Wil Holmes; 12-04-2016 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:18 PM   #20883
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1499g

Its good out of the box... If running dirt perhaps and brass c block

depends on motor... Look up a 13.5 in the manual and go up one tooth.
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:11 PM   #20884
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Picked up a used B5m off eBay to race this indoor season. I have only raced touring cars so this will be my first experience with dirt. Not completely sure what has been done to the car as far as upgrades for racing but I know it was raced. I will be racing the car in the 2wd mod-buggy class with a Orion R10 ESC, and LRP Vector x12 13.5t motor. I have a fair amount of questions if y'all could help me answer them.

- What is the minimum weight for mod-buggy? The track runs ROAR rules.
- What upgrades would be best for this car? Puck system, Avid triad system, light weight top shaft, etc?
- What is a good general final drive ratio?

Thanks for any assistants,

Here is a picture off eBay of the car. Still waiting on it to arrive in the mail.
If it has the AE 3 pad slipper get the Triad, Otherwise only mods I'd recommend are 3 gear tranny case, AE machined pistons, or VRP pistons, and Alum rear wheel hexes. If your running Mod class id go a little hotter in wind....a 9.5 wind to start with perhaps. Spend your money on tires, springs, and shock oil, thats where the improvements will come
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:25 PM   #20885
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My plan is to keep running my B5M for as long as I can but I see it's officially dicontinued as a kit and I'm starting to wonder if it's time to move on to a B6.

Is there any chance the B5 will survive by replacing the B4 as Associates RTR buggy? That would make sense to me because the B4 is not a very good RTR for beginners because the front end is so weak.
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:33 PM   #20886
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I'm running a B5M as well. I have seen several guys go back to the B5M from the B6 at several local tracks. I wouldn't worry to much about the B5M being discontinued. Parts will be available for awhile. Parts are still out there for the B4 which is 4-5 years old now.
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:03 PM   #20887
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
If it has the AE 3 pad slipper get the Triad, Otherwise only mods I'd recommend are 3 gear tranny case, AE machined pistons, or VRP pistons, and Alum rear wheel hexes. If your running Mod class id go a little hotter in wind....a 9.5 wind to start with perhaps. Spend your money on tires, springs, and shock oil, thats where the improvements will come
Thanks! I was thinking it could use a smaller turn motor but was unsure. The track is a small to medium track. Basically needs a quick acceleration.

To add to the discussion about still running the B5m. I am going to attempt to run this car for a couple seasons and see what happens. Associated is good about keeping parts for discontinued models. I am not apart of the club that buys a new kit every few months JMO. Once I get use to one kit I like to keep it and squeeze all I can from it.
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:32 AM   #20888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESocket View Post
I made a B6 lay down conversion on mine. It works very well and total cost was around $65.
You will need B6 lay down conversion, B6 top shaft and MIP16085 shim kit

The bottom of the B6 case needs to be ground at the bottom and cut at the lowest case bolt hole. Highlighted in silver in the pictures

The tail of the B6 case needs to be cut to length and drilled to attach at ball stud mount. I used the 2mm servo spacer to layout the holes and shim between the ball stud mount and trans case.

The chassis needs 4 holes drilled and countersunk. use the holes highlighted in pics to mount.

The c-mount needs modified as well to clear the trans case.

Finally I used a piece on aluminum to make a new battery hold down.
Thanks for posting this. I think I'll try it.
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:10 PM   #20889
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Wil, try 27/72 or 27/69 for gearing on the 13.5 and it will be pretty close. 13.5 is actually faster for some of us than the 6.5 on some tracks (top 5 avg.).
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:54 PM   #20890
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Default B5m or b6d

Good evening I'm looking to get into the 10th scale buggy market ( I've been racing 8th scale) and we now have a indoor track now and I've always liked the b5m and even got to drive a couple of our club members, before the 6 was released. Is it worth getting a b6d? Personaly with all the set up options and AF parts on these fairly new kits you should beable to get anything to work but is their a certain characterist of the b6 that makes it shine? Or driving style it caters to best or track condition? We race on rutted blown out hard dusty, and blue groove tracks. Thanks for your guys time!
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:15 PM   #20891
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I Just got back into R/C after 5yrs out.. My buddy bought a b6D and sold me his b5M, needless to say I LOVE the car & beat him with it constantly. lol. The first time i drove it was at a supercup race over 100 entries, i qualified in the A right out of the gate, my friends were all in the B LOL. Its Driver, period, the car is Amazing, box setup except for the gull wing front arms & tower to go with it, I run High Bite Hard grooved clay tracks & its dialed it its stock form. I wont buy a B6 until i cant get parts for my B5M :-)
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:56 PM   #20892
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I Just got back into R/C after 5yrs out.. My buddy bought a b6D and sold me his b5M, needless to say I LOVE the car & beat him with it constantly. lol. The first time i drove it was at a supercup race over 100 entries, i qualified in the A right out of the gate, my friends were all in the B LOL. Its Driver, period, the car is Amazing, box setup except for the gull wing front arms & tower to go with it, I run High Bite Hard grooved clay tracks & its dialed it its stock form. I wont buy a B6 until i cant get parts for my B5M :-)

What tower are you using? I run carpet and also hard packed high traction clay. Currently have the gullwing arms. How would I know which tower i have?
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Old 12-09-2016, 09:17 PM   #20893
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What tower are you using? I run carpet and also hard packed high traction clay. Currently have the gullwing arms. How would I know which tower i have?
I know there is a difference, but my b5m came with gullwing arms,I broke one and all they had in stock were straight arms. Put those puppies right on and haven't had a problem. I run on carpet and I know that gullwing are preferred for that, I know it lowers ride height or something like that. But I've been running the straight arms over two months and my ride feels great.
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:08 AM   #20894
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Flat arms use a narrow tower, gullwing arms use a wide tower. Mostly affects shock angles, a narrow tower with gulllwing arms make it a little harder to get to higher ride heights if desired. And obviously the other way around makes it hard to reach lower ride heights. Me personally, if I wanted to mix parts between the two different set ups I would use the lower shock cups to help adjust ride heights.
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:30 AM   #20895
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What tower are you using? I run carpet and also hard packed high traction clay. Currently have the gullwing arms. How would I know which tower i have?
I asked the same question a while back, i was told the tower is asc91516 to go with the gulwing arms asc91526
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