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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:00 AM
  #19726  
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I'm currently at 25-0 and the axle is inline which gives the most aggressive steering. Those are some crazy stiff springs! My setup is close. I think I could win with it with decent competition but my corner speed is limited by the push mid to exit. Shoot, I might be close enough that a bit of extra ride height in the rear might be enough.
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:06 AM
  #19727  
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Ok for you guys that have ACTUALLY done all the lightweight mods(ie pucks,3 gear,chassis swap,etc) what are you seeing for lap time differences between the box stock car and the lightweight setup. I only have titanium screws and 3 gear and I gained maybe 2 tenths but I dropped 50degrees or more of heat
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:31 AM
  #19728  
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Originally Posted by Moyanator609
Im looking for more steering on my b5m. Anyone care to comment on this matter. Ty
Go to a 1mms spacer on the Ackerman link. I promise it will help
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Old 03-29-2015, 11:36 AM
  #19729  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
I'm currently at 25-0 and the axle is inline which gives the most aggressive steering. Those are some crazy stiff springs! My setup is close. I think I could win with it with decent competition but my corner speed is limited by the push mid to exit. Shoot, I might be close enough that a bit of extra ride height in the rear might be enough.
look at the picture of Kamryn's car from cactus. orange front and yellow rears. 1.4x3 front and 1.6 rear with about 32.5/30 oils

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Old 03-29-2015, 05:32 PM
  #19730  
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Originally Posted by iScream
I get your point but there is no perfect RC car. If every track was exactly the same, with exactly the same traction level all the way around, and every driver drove exactly the same, I think an optimal chassis setup and tire compound/tread profile could be engineered without too much trouble.
But even on the same track, conditions vary on different corners or jumps. You can have huge differences in traction level and how smooth the surface is within a few feet traveled.
The interaction between a race car, RC or full size, and the track enviironment is incredibly complex. That's part of why we keep getting new cars with new adjustments and geometries. Another reason is improvements in materials and manufacturing that make the cars more durable and or easier to work on.
All accurate statements. Although I will point out that when cars had aluminum chassis and someone released one with a composite it was scoffed at...initially. Then they all used composite chassis. Even today some use composite, some aluminum and cars are more adjustable than ever, even allowing transmissions to be turned 180 degrees, wheelbase alterations, on and on.

The bottom line is these debates have been raging since I started racing in 1985. Although much has changed, the majority is exactly the same, other than Internet debates added into the bench racing debate.

Everyone buys new cars looking for the wins, but the same guys win at local tracks and major events as with the previous design.
Like buying an Apple product. You don't need it, but you want the latest version.


I just don't get the arguing as if somebody knows what's really best in spite of it all. Which was my original point.

Keep it fun, that's all that really matters in the end.
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:39 PM
  #19731  
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[QUOTE=Wildcat1971;13931359]I am playing with 25-0 on high bite. you could also play with the +3mm trailing. stiffer rear springs. locally we have been going to really stiff springs for 17.5 orange fronts and yellow rears. Also, I went back to gulwings with the stiff springs.[/QUOT

When you changed back to gull wing was it the b5m's and what shock tower did you use?
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:58 PM
  #19732  
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Mm tower in the front. Rm rear arms
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:57 PM
  #19733  
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Originally Posted by iScream
I run that 160T at 7.4 volts and it works great. I just bought a used B5M for my wife to play with to see if she wants to try a novice race and I dropped a Savox 1251 in it. I had it sitting in a drawer so decided to get some use from it. Seems to be working fine but it isn't nearly as strong, fast, smooth or quiet as the Protek.
+1 Just put one in my XB4 and considering upgrading my 1258 in my B5M as well or going with the Super Speed version 160SS. Higher speed can make it feel more twitchy to some, but to me it has more over all "feel" to the car.
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:58 PM
  #19734  
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Originally Posted by kaiser
IIRC the tall ones are for the b44. not sure what the little ones are for.
Which is kind of a joke since the b44 snaps those little bird cage things like crazy. Had to upgrade it to Al cups.
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Old 03-29-2015, 08:12 PM
  #19735  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am playing with 25-0 on high bite. you could also play with the +3mm trailing. stiffer rear springs. locally we have been going to really stiff springs for 17.5 orange fronts and yellow rears. Also, I went back to gulwings with the stiff springs.
Did you use the b5m gull wings and b5 shock tower?
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:05 PM
  #19736  
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Setup advice straight out of the F main
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:14 PM
  #19737  
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Originally Posted by gooba
Ok for you guys that have ACTUALLY done all the lightweight mods(ie pucks,3 gear,chassis swap,etc) what are you seeing for lap time differences between the box stock car and the lightweight setup. I only have titanium screws and 3 gear and I gained maybe 2 tenths but I dropped 50degrees or more of heat
I just got one together. Super-lite w/ a milled chassis, 3 gear w/good bearings, pucks, ti everything, and I retained a lot of the plastic stuff for weight. I don't know how much time its given me. My lap times were 5-7 tenths faster than Friday night [today] with the new car but the perfect conditions today may have been the reason. If you did a few things and saw .2 improvement, you should be pleased. Unless you are always top 3 in the A main you probably would see more improvement from practice....I definitely fall into that category myself.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:15 PM
  #19738  
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Setup advice straight out of the F main

LOL

Last edited by Socket; 03-30-2015 at 05:09 AM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:14 AM
  #19739  
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If you find the tuning advice to be inaccurate please feel free to correct it with what you find to be good advice. If you can't be part of a positive solution DON'T POST! 98% of us are sick of the crap here. Be a part of the solution, not the problem.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:30 AM
  #19740  
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Originally Posted by gearit
Did you use the b5m gull wings and b5 shock tower?
If you change the arms the tower should be as well. In other words, b5m parts together or b5 parts together. Geometry is different from each other.
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