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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:47 AM   #1951
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Stang


Going to post a set-up soon.

When all the refinements are discovered & made will post .

If I do learn of a trick for speed that is working well before ?

Will announce like I did with the shorty.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:01 AM   #1952
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Originally Posted by tropmonky View Post
"My car without added weight and battery comes in at 1342g" - from the post.
Sorry, not sure how I missed that.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:32 AM   #1953
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Just for reference, in case you don't know, roar regulations state that the minimum race ready weight for 2wd buggy is 1499 grams.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:39 AM   #1954
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Time to wrench!!!
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:47 AM   #1955
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so is anyone running this car outdoors on holeshot style wet clay tracks that are bumpy? Its so boring seeing everyone run indoors with these cars.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:53 AM   #1956
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
so is anyone running this car outdoors on holeshot style wet clay tracks that are bumpy? Its so boring seeing everyone run indoors with these cars.
Outdoor season starts soon, I'll be running mine on an 1/8 scale track. Mostly loose, sometimes medium traction.

Ran a shorty full back and car was on rails, I'm playing with pistons right now... so far it's just getting better.

WC have you tried 10 gram inside front nose yet? Works good.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:54 AM   #1957
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A great way to improve this sport is just open the buggy class for any motor & make Sc & ST 17.5 the new beginner class's..


BTW

Couple teammates are now using the shorty pack, mid performs much better with.
Good news for the stock class! Still trying to decide if I "need" one.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:01 AM   #1958
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hey wildcat.. yes I run mine both indoors and on a outdoor style track.. I have a friend who has a covered horse arena and we built a 60x90 track in it.. I have a contracting company so I have a skidsteer and viberpacker... the track is fun with tallest jumps being about 5 ft. tall and one triple is about 20ft. several 12 foot doubles and a lot of fun stuff.. dirt is just that.. dirt .. we water it but its more like a good outdoor track then a indoor. I raced motocross for yrs so its a very motocross track design.

for tires I run proline calibers front and back.. 1.6 tapered pistons all around, 35 wt. oil front, 30 rear. 1 deg neg camber in front, 2 neg in back. a 3/1 toe block. wheel base is short. I sanded .5mm off the front of the rear arm and use a small spacing washer behind the arm to take up any of the slack that was, as the kit has a tiny bit of movement there anyway. I run the battery with one thick pad infront and one of the 4mm pads infront,. so only one 4mm pad behind it. full size servo.. xp1015 digital .
and arms level front and bones level back.

The car is dialed! haven't broken anything yet and its super fun. 2wd buggy has always been my fav. class and I really enjoy the new car.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:02 AM   #1959
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An update: I've managed to get my car together and on the track sunday. Only difference is 30wt in rear shocks just to be different. So far no bearing issues, no wheels falling off yet, and probably undergeared on a 13.5 but think I need to work on better cooling. The 1.7s in the rear are great if you like it to roll around like a cadillac or are attempting to run outdoors. I doubt 32.5wt oil will help that to my liking in my situation. Once I get the back dialed in better then I'll bother trying to get the front better.
I also managed to make a rookie mistake and gouged the one of the shock shafts in the rear but no tears/leaks so far *knock on wood*. will be replacing those and seals and getting proper tools since the plastic is so snug. Also finally experienced the ball cups popping off during tuning. my temporary solution - 2 2m drivers stuck in the ball studs until i can get a proper tap and find my chapstick.

beyond that my only issue is not having built the big bores before and trying to get ZERO rebound as shocks are for dampening! If you can tell me the magic secret on that, I would appreciate it.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:36 AM   #1960
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An update: I've managed to get my car together and on the track sunday. Only difference is 30wt in rear shocks just to be different. So far no bearing issues, no wheels falling off yet, and probably undergeared on a 13.5 but think I need to work on better cooling. The 1.7s in the rear are great if you like it to roll around like a cadillac or are attempting to run outdoors. I doubt 32.5wt oil will help that to my liking in my situation. Once I get the back dialed in better then I'll bother trying to get the front better.
I also managed to make a rookie mistake and gouged the one of the shock shafts in the rear but no tears/leaks so far *knock on wood*. will be replacing those and seals and getting proper tools since the plastic is so snug. Also finally experienced the ball cups popping off during tuning. my temporary solution - 2 2m drivers stuck in the ball studs until i can get a proper tap and find my chapstick.

beyond that my only issue is not having built the big bores before and trying to get ZERO rebound as shocks are for dampening! If you can tell me the magic secret on that, I would appreciate it.
3 bleedings will give you zero rebound.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:21 AM   #1961
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Originally Posted by iVoid View Post
Just for reference, in case you don't know, roar regulations state that the minimum race ready weight for 2wd buggy is 1499 grams.
Ya he thinks all the batterys are the same weight maybe! I see the b5m cars are a littel fat. What is your b5m weight. with sq/sad/shorty.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:26 AM   #1962
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So I think I found the trick to these shocks. I don't bleed them. I kept getting air bubbles to I over pack them with oil then let out the screw and it lets out a bout 3 drips of oil and it had the perfect amount 0 air and 1/8 and inch rebound
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:28 AM   #1963
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Absolutehobbyz.com has 1 B5M in stock. Great guys and if u choose fedex home delivery and live in philly/nj/nyc area you can get it over night most times for like $10, that is if you order by 1pm. you can also find a coupon if u search google too, i think its like 5% off.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:48 AM   #1964
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost View Post
So I think I found the trick to these shocks. I don't bleed them. I kept getting bubbles to I over pack them with oil then let out the screw lets out a bout 3 drips of oil and it had the perfect amount 0 air and 1/8 and inch rebound
I have noticed the same thing. I dont like the kit directions for the bleeding. Took me a few tries with different methods to get it dialed. I pretty much use that same bleeding process that you mentioned. Im suprised nobody else has mentioned this. I also use a tamiya pump to eliminate air.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:19 AM   #1965
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The weight with the battery is what should be reported. It's kinda hard to compare to others if were not comparing the same thing. Should be weighed race ready with battery and body
I have an issue with that. Lots of batteries are different weights, thus you're not comparing the weight of the actual car itself which is what we are doing.

Some are running shorty packs, some are running pan car batts (lighter than shorty packs, mine is 150g) or a new SQ Brick pack...

Because of the different weights in battery packs it's best to weigh the car alone minus the battery.
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