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Old 04-10-2016, 04:35 AM   #19546
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So I somehow stripped out one of the holes where the shock mounts to the rear suspension arm. I'll probably just buy a new set of rear arms, but is there any trick that will help me repair the threads so I can save the arm as a backup?

I was thinking about putting a drop of wood glue or something on the screw and then screwing it in and let it sit overnight. Thinking that might harden and tighten up the threads. But I'm not sure if I'll ever get the screw back out or if the threads will hold up since that's a screw that needs to be removed often. Might not be worth the effort but I'm just curious I guess.
CA glue can get brittle and pops out, wood glue won't harden properly. Est solution by far is to cut a strip of cable tie. Put it in the hole, screw and voila! Works a treat. I have 3 race meets now with my rear arm shock mount screw no problems and cable tie. Just like carpenters use wood wedges.
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:03 AM   #19547
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CA glue can get brittle and pops out, wood glue won't harden properly. Est solution by far is to cut a strip of cable tie. Put it in the hole, screw and voila! Works a treat. I have 3 race meets now with my rear arm shock mount screw no problems and cable tie. Just like carpenters use wood wedges.
Brilliant!
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:16 AM   #19548
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You can use a 2mm longer screw till you get new ones.
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:16 AM   #19549
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should i get the reedy 17.5 800z combo or the justock esc instead?? what arr the differences? is one more simple to setup or user friendly
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:39 AM   #19550
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should i get the reedy 17.5 800z combo or the justock esc instead?? what arr the differences? is one more simple to setup or user friendly
They're both good. Personally, I'd save the $50 and get the juststock but that's just me. Get any decent esc and 17.5 motor and you'll be good to go. Really.
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:48 AM   #19551
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Race day!

Thanks to DennisNyholm, drag brake got my turn in issues sorted. I stayed out of the marshall's hands today, but there was no sportsmen class. Lots of laps where I got out of the way of the guys fighting for the mains so my lap times still sucked and weren't consistent.

All in all, the car is now pretty dialed after the drag brake. It's the nut behind the wheel letting it down now 100%
Glad to hear it helped. I actually just went back to the track after increasing mine. I was noticing I was flying nose high off of most jumps and over shooting some turns. It really helped me level my car off of jumps and have more control through the turns.

I have a feeling as I get a bit better with car control, I may dial it back a bit. But for now it is helping me.
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:30 AM   #19552
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In my opinion the best weight you can lose is rotating mass, so schelle slipper, mip pucks, and cut gears. Next would be titanium turnbuckles and screws.
Yeah, already have most of that too. Using an Exotek slipper eliminator though, so I'm afraid of using cut gears. Haven't gotten the MIP pucks yet but probably will eventually. Heard the added maintenance with them can be a pain which is the main reason I haven't gotten them yet.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:51 AM   #19553
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How good are you at driving? If you're not "very" good, the weight difference might not to much for you.

FYI, legal minimum is 1,499g.
Honestly, I think I'm getting there. The fastest guys at the track are running 22 second laps with a stock buggy and I'm running 23 second laps.

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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
So I somehow stripped out one of the holes where the shock mounts to the rear suspension arm. I'll probably just buy a new set of rear arms, but is there any trick that will help me repair the threads so I can save the arm as a backup?

I was thinking about putting a drop of wood glue or something on the screw and then screwing it in and let it sit overnight. Thinking that might harden and tighten up the threads. But I'm not sure if I'll ever get the screw back out or if the threads will hold up since that's a screw that needs to be removed often. Might not be worth the effort but I'm just curious I guess.
I think a few other guys said it already but for the cost of the arms I wouldn't try to fix them. I keep front and rear arms in the parts I take with me. In 1:10 racing you have to keep a little support kit for yourself I think.

I watched you race the main man. I think you said you're pretty new, if so you drove pretty well. You ran a nice clean main. I thought your car was a little loose which doesn't help especially in 2wd. Were you using traction compound on your tires yesterday? Guys were fighting for grip all day, some even went to super soft tires. I sauced my clay bar flys with pink sticky kicks and that seemed to do the trick.

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I'm right about that same point. Lower rotational mass is more important than overall weight. I'll take a good handling, snappy 17.5 car any day over an ill handling 1499 car any day. My older reflexes and eye sight don't allow for handling issues with my cars anymore.
I have the CE car, so its supposed to have the lightened shaft and I have cut gears. I really don't know where the weight is coming from?! Have a savox servo, its a standard servo...maybe there is some weight there, idk. I've been running a trackstar esc but I'm changing it to the hobbywing stock. Not sure how much weight difference that is if any.

How much heavier are aluminum parts? I have an aluminum front bulkhead, aluminum hubs and aluminum shock caps.

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Back with my old B5M I felt 1535-1550 was the sweet spot. The lite comes in way less without any modifications. I will have to check and see what mine weighs in at ready to rock.
My buddy has a lite, all stock car with reedy electronics. 1555g.

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In my opinion the best weight you can lose is rotating mass, so schelle slipper, mip pucks, and cut gears. Next would be titanium turnbuckles and screws.
I keep debating on the pucks...have cut gears already, ill checkout that slipper. The CE has titanium turnbuckles, but idk maybe an aftermarket set would be better/ lighter? Going to get the titanium screw kit for sure. That and the lite chassis. Really don't know what else to do.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:02 AM   #19554
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1499g may not be the best weight for me but Id like to get down to 1550-1575g. I feel like I'm leaving too much on the table when everyone else weighs 50-100g less lol.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:19 AM   #19555
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I'm a bit over 1600 and I would say I'm a fairly decent driver. When I determine that the weight of my car is keeping me from taking first place (it isn't) I will do something about it (I'm not holding my breath). The CE kit is VERY similar to what I have right now. It will probably weight around 1600 out of the box depending on electronics. Guys, don't dwell on the weight. If you run 1600 and don't crash in the main and a guy runs 1499 and crashes just once, you beat him. Get the right tires, a good setup, focus, and hit all your marks. This requires a commitment of track time and grey matter....not money. Just my $0.02....
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:31 AM   #19556
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I'm a bit over 1600 and I would say I'm a fairly decent driver. When I determine that the weight of my car is keeping me from taking first place (it isn't) I will do something about it (I'm not holding my breath). The CE kit is VERY similar to what I have right now. It will probably weight around 1600 out of the box depending on electronics. Guys, don't dwell on the weight. If you run 1600 and don't crash in the main and a guy runs 1499 and crashes just once, you beat him. Get the right tires, a good setup, focus, and hit all your marks. This requires a commitment of track time and grey matter....not money. Just my $0.02....
Well at this point... I can run a qualifier without mistakes. Depends on how the main goes lol, I can run the car that amount of time without mistakes but racing is racing and things can always happen. My point is with stock racing once you're at a certain level you have to get every edge you can...the difference in qualifying in the top of the B vs the bottom of the A is a matter of less than half a second.

Now like I said before I'm sure there is a point where weight reduction becomes counter productive... but when everyone else is 1550g or less and I'm over 1600 that is some speed left on the table.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:38 AM   #19557
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Right now, I'm thinking about doing the lite chassis, schelle carbon fiber battery bracket (supposed to loose 7g there) and the titanium screw kit. Thinking that would be a good start on the weight loss program.
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:36 AM   #19558
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I watched you race the main man. I think you said you're pretty new, if so you drove pretty well. You ran a nice clean main. I thought your car was a little loose which doesn't help especially in 2wd. Were you using traction compound on your tires yesterday? Guys were fighting for grip all day, some even went to super soft tires. I sauced my clay bar flys with pink sticky kicks and that seemed to do the trick.
Thanks! Yeah this was only about my 5th race overall and only the 2nd one since moving out of Novice. I'm happy with how I drove even though I finished dead last lol. I crashed more during that main than I did all day because I was driving too hard trying to pick up that transfer spot. I was running clay Electrons without any sauce. Traction was definitely down compared to the last couple weeks. I tried running slicks during one of the qualifiers. That was a big mistake lol.
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:17 PM   #19559
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Thanks! Yeah this was only about my 5th race overall and only the 2nd one since moving out of Novice. I'm happy with how I drove even though I finished dead last lol. I crashed more during that main than I did all day because I was driving too hard trying to pick up that transfer spot. I was running clay Electrons without any sauce. Traction was definitely down compared to the last couple weeks. I tried running slicks during one of the qualifiers. That was a big mistake lol.
Lot of tough competition at Sparks man. I was dead last in my share of races there when I started! Id keep a bottle of pink sticky kicks on hand if you're going to run at Sparks a lot. That track goes through some changes as the layout gets older and even from the beginning of the day to the end. Tire sauce has been the easiest way for me to compensate for the change throughout that day.
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:55 PM   #19560
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which hobbywing justock model is it the xr10?
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