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Old 04-09-2016, 01:14 PM   #19531
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yea ill most likely go with the 17.5 with 800z since im still learning
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:21 PM   #19532
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My local track did a tech inspection today for stock class. Seeing my buggy on a scale was a little eye opening. She has a major weight problem lol. 1605g. How bad is that in stock buggy? I'm sure there is a point with weight reduction where it starts to get counter productive but most of the cars there were weighing around 1550.

How much difference would loosing 55g to get to 1550 make and how do I drop that weight??
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:24 PM   #19533
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yea ill most likely go with the 17.5 with 800z since im still learning
17.5 class, stock class, spec class...whatever you want to call it is very competitive but the car is much more manageable with the slower motor and more fun to drive in my opinion.
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:53 PM   #19534
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Race day!

Thanks to DennisNyholm, drag brake got my turn in issues sorted. I stayed out of the marshall's hands today, but there was no sportsmen class. Lots of laps where I got out of the way of the guys fighting for the mains so my lap times still sucked and weren't consistent.

All in all, the car is now pretty dialed after the drag brake. It's the nut behind the wheel letting it down now 100%
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:10 PM   #19535
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How much difference would loosing 55g to get to 1550 make and how do I drop that weight??
How good are you at driving? If you're not "very" good, the weight difference might not to much for you.

FYI, legal minimum is 1,499g.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:23 PM   #19536
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So I somehow stripped out one of the holes where the shock mounts to the rear suspension arm. I'll probably just buy a new set of rear arms, but is there any trick that will help me repair the threads so I can save the arm as a backup?

I was thinking about putting a drop of wood glue or something on the screw and then screwing it in and let it sit overnight. Thinking that might harden and tighten up the threads. But I'm not sure if I'll ever get the screw back out or if the threads will hold up since that's a screw that needs to be removed often. Might not be worth the effort but I'm just curious I guess.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:27 PM   #19537
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So I somehow stripped out one of the holes where the shock mounts to the rear suspension arm. I'll probably just buy a new set of rear arms, but is there any trick that will help me repair the threads so I can save the arm as a backup?

I was thinking about putting a drop of wood glue or something on the screw and then screwing it in and let it sit overnight. Thinking that might harden and tighten up the threads. But I'm not sure if I'll ever get the screw back out or if the threads will hold up since that's a screw that needs to be removed often. Might not be worth the effort but I'm just curious I guess.
Good idea but for the price of the arms I would just grab new ones. No need to wrench down hard on screws into plastic, just snug.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:31 PM   #19538
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My local track did a tech inspection today for stock class. Seeing my buggy on a scale was a little eye opening. She has a major weight problem lol. 1605g. How bad is that in stock buggy? I'm sure there is a point with weight reduction where it starts to get counter productive but most of the cars there were weighing around 1550.

How much difference would loosing 55g to get to 1550 make and how do I drop that weight??
I'm right about that same point. Lower rotational mass is more important than overall weight. I'll take a good handling, snappy 17.5 car any day over an ill handling 1499 car any day. My older reflexes and eye sight don't allow for handling issues with my cars anymore.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:46 PM   #19539
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Good idea but for the price of the arms I would just grab new ones. No need to wrench down hard on screws into plastic, just snug.
Yeah I'm usually really careful when tightening into plastic but I was in a hurry and must have got careless. Still seemed like the threads gave out easier than they should have though!
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:54 PM   #19540
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Yeah I'm usually really careful when tightening into plastic but I was in a hurry and must have got careless. Still seemed like the threads gave out easier than they should have though!
Mine wear out just because of taking my shocks off a lot! Just use a screw that's 2mm longer. There's plenty of extra room for it.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:57 PM   #19541
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Yeah I'm usually really careful when tightening into plastic but I was in a hurry and must have got careless. Still seemed like the threads gave out easier than they should have though!
When re threading into plastic always try and rotate the screws backwards slowly until you feel it drop into the old threads. Throwing it in and screwing each time you will cut new threads each time and after half a dozen times you will strip out the plastic.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:10 PM   #19542
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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
So I somehow stripped out one of the holes where the shock mounts to the rear suspension arm. I'll probably just buy a new set of rear arms, but is there any trick that will help me repair the threads so I can save the arm as a backup?

I was thinking about putting a drop of wood glue or something on the screw and then screwing it in and let it sit overnight. Thinking that might harden and tighten up the threads. But I'm not sure if I'll ever get the screw back out or if the threads will hold up since that's a screw that needs to be removed often. Might not be worth the effort but I'm just curious I guess.
Couple drops of CA glue can get you by for a little while. Just put a couple drops in the hole, and gently tighten. Never had a screw not break free.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:43 PM   #19543
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Originally Posted by JC8390 View Post
My local track did a tech inspection today for stock class. Seeing my buggy on a scale was a little eye opening. She has a major weight problem lol. 1605g. How bad is that in stock buggy? I'm sure there is a point with weight reduction where it starts to get counter productive but most of the cars there were weighing around 1550.

How much difference would loosing 55g to get to 1550 make and how do I drop that weight??
Back with my old B5M I felt 1535-1550 was the sweet spot. The lite comes in way less without any modifications. I will have to check and see what mine weighs in at ready to rock.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:50 PM   #19544
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My buggy used to be 1605g, replacing all screws with (Lunsford) titanium and top shaft/wheel/shock nuts with (AE) aluminum got me down to 1575g. Planning to get a lighter battery next which will shave another 40-50g. Using standard (non-lite) chassis for lower center of gravity.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:06 PM   #19545
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My buggy used to be 1605g, replacing all screws with (Lunsford) titanium and top shaft/wheel/shock nuts with (AE) aluminum got me down to 1575g. Planning to get a lighter battery next which will shave another 40-50g. Using standard (non-lite) chassis for lower center of gravity.
In my opinion the best weight you can lose is rotating mass, so schelle slipper, mip pucks, and cut gears. Next would be titanium turnbuckles and screws.
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