54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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03-10-2014, 07:07 PM
#1924
With stock I'd spend so much time grinding, shimming, and polishing to make the car more efficient. The b5m seems like it fits together much better (fresh molds?) from what I've seen, so maybe this is less necessary.
Honestly, it has to be pretty overwhelming to the guy moving up from the novice class to find out what measures some of the 17.5 guys are taking on their cars. Slipper eliminators, lightened outdrives, pucks, ceramics, ti screws, and so on. By contrast in 2wd mod you can pretty much throw a box stock kit out there and your success is up to you and your throttle finger. It's the driver's class.
Honestly, it has to be pretty overwhelming to the guy moving up from the novice class to find out what measures some of the 17.5 guys are taking on their cars. Slipper eliminators, lightened outdrives, pucks, ceramics, ti screws, and so on. By contrast in 2wd mod you can pretty much throw a box stock kit out there and your success is up to you and your throttle finger. It's the driver's class.
03-10-2014, 07:48 PM
#1925
Tech Rookie
Though maybe I should add that our stock class is 13.5, so maybe super stock? Or maybe I'm just being hypocritical. I don't know who I am anymore. What year is it?
03-10-2014, 07:53 PM
#1926
Tech Rookie
How is that problem solved? Then it's just a limited mod class. Personally I don't see the problem at all. I race stock because I enjoy tinkering a lot, and I'm a lot better at experimenting and adjusting my chassis and suspension settings than I am at driving. Stock is a nice place for me to be. Not too fast, but still quite competitive, at least at my local track. Stock buggy is the most popular class here.
Though maybe I should add that our stock class is 13.5, so maybe super stock? Or maybe I'm just being hypocritical. I don't know who I am anymore. What year is it?
Though maybe I should add that our stock class is 13.5, so maybe super stock? Or maybe I'm just being hypocritical. I don't know who I am anymore. What year is it?
03-10-2014, 07:53 PM
#1927
How is that problem solved? Then it's just a limited mod class. Personally I don't see the problem at all. I race stock because I enjoy tinkering a lot, and I'm a lot better at experimenting and adjusting my chassis and suspension settings than I am at driving. Stock is a nice place for me to be. Not too fast, but still quite competitive, at least at my local track. Stock buggy is the most popular class here.
03-10-2014, 08:17 PM
#1928
I love all this talk about weight. BTW the aluminum top shaft is already sold out, I missed out and went to try and order it this morning. 
I raced the JBRL race out in IERC in the rookie class (first major race in 20yrs for me). I placed 3rd, my protek 3000mah pack was really starting to lack punch after the 5min mark of the 6min main. It's a well used pack and should prob just be used for practice now.
My car without added weight and battery comes in at 1342g which is nice, but I'd like to get it down near 1285g.
Here are the mods I have on my car to make this weight:
-Ti associated Turnbuckles
-Aluminum Screws throughout
-EVO Typo's front and back
-Aluminum Hex's on the rear
I raced the JBRL race out in IERC in the rookie class (first major race in 20yrs for me). I placed 3rd, my protek 3000mah pack was really starting to lack punch after the 5min mark of the 6min main. It's a well used pack and should prob just be used for practice now.
My car without added weight and battery comes in at 1342g which is nice, but I'd like to get it down near 1285g.
Here are the mods I have on my car to make this weight:
-Ti associated Turnbuckles
-Aluminum Screws throughout
-EVO Typo's front and back
-Aluminum Hex's on the rear
03-10-2014, 08:22 PM
#1929
so used tymia paint for my body its the one for plastics and started cracking from just cutting it out. and first time putting the body on the car. It started to crack even more
03-10-2014, 08:32 PM
#1931
I'm not 100% happy with my paint either. First off, I got a little seepage under the front window mask when I tried really hard to press them all down tight and spray a super light first coat. Then, when I went to spray one of my main colors, with a brand new spray can, I did a test spray first, came out clean, then went to hit the body, and out fly big globs of paint. I thought everything was good, but after it all dried, everywhere a big glob hit, the color is off (lighter). Oh well.
03-10-2014, 08:39 PM
#1933
I have been painting forever and just realized there is two different pains from tamiya. Could have sworn I had been buying the right one but not so much. You need the polycarbonate paint. Trust me, I learned the hard way.
03-10-2014, 08:40 PM
#1934
I'm not 100% happy with my paint either. First off, I got a little seepage under the front window mask when I tried really hard to press them all down tight and spray a super light first coat. Then, when I went to spray one of my main colors, with a brand new spray can, I did a test spray first, came out clean, then went to hit the body, and out fly big globs of paint. I thought everything was good, but after it all dried, everywhere a big glob hit, the color is off (lighter). Oh well.
03-10-2014, 08:41 PM
#1935
I'm not 100% happy with my paint either. First off, I got a little seepage under the front window mask when I tried really hard to press them all down tight and spray a super light first coat. Then, when I went to spray one of my main colors, with a brand new spray can, I did a test spray first, came out clean, then went to hit the body, and out fly big globs of paint. I thought everything was good, but after it all dried, everywhere a big glob hit, the color is off (lighter). Oh well.
