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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:52 AM   #19306
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Thanks for the help
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:16 AM   #19307
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Clarify

I need the shock tools that tighten the caps on.
My TLR ones don't work - TLR5099
I've always used the cheap tools that come in the kit, and I almost never need those. No need to tighten more than "hand tight", IMO.

I'm not even sure anyone makes a tool or tools (aftermarket) specifically to fit the top and bottom caps on the current AE shocks? If they do I wouldn't waste my money on them.
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:34 AM   #19308
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Yup, I use the schelle wrench to hold the bottom of the shock body and hand tighten the cap on. There are no / you don't need any special tools for tightening the cap.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:03 AM   #19309
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Yup, I use the schelle wrench to hold the bottom of the shock body and hand tighten the cap on. There are no / you don't need any special tools for tightening the cap.
Same. the silver steel tool that comes with the kit works as well. but I always just finger tighten the shock caps. no need to hulk them on.
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:36 PM   #19310
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I made yesterday my maiden ride with the b5m on our local track. After the first jump I crashed and broke the rear shock mount! Spare parts were on order, so after only maybe 5min driving I went back home and ordered a couple more.

So far, I'm having some mixed feelings about the b5m.
Only thing I have broken is an A - ARm because an 8th scale ran my ass over on an outdoor track. if you get the aluminum bulkhead, im pretty sure its damn near close to indestructible.
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:39 PM   #19311
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Only thing I have broken is an A - ARm because an 8th scale ran my ass over on an outdoor track. if you get the aluminum bulkhead, im pretty sure its damn near close to indestructible.
Same here. We run on a carpet track that lets you carry a LOT of speed. I can't count how many times I've tried to knock the walls down and so far I bent a rear hinge pin and broke the plastic bulkhead.
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:29 PM   #19312
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I'm a beginner and I've been amazed at how durable the car has been through lots of crashes in my first couple months of racing. I haven't broken anything major. Just a couple odds and ends:

2 - bent rear shock shafts (at least one was from getting t-boned by another driver while I was flipped upside down)

1 - broken ball cup (pretty sure I cracked it while squeezing it with pliers to loosen it up during assembly and it later broke at the track)

2 - broken shock eyelets (from screwing them too far onto the shock shaft during assembly, I think)

1 - plastic rear camber insert block (shouldn't happen again now that I added a washer to the assembly, as suggested on this thread)

and of course I've destroyed a couple rear wings as well. . .
nothing is going to stop anyone from destroying the rear wings. i suggested the associated branded wings for replacements. they are dirt cheap
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:41 AM   #19313
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Yup, I use the schelle wrench to hold the bottom of the shock body and hand tighten the cap on. There are no / you don't need any special tools for tightening the cap.
I forgot about the Schelle tool, I love that thing!

I agree, you should t need to tighten more than hand tight. Let the o ring do its job.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:43 AM   #19314
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Same here. We run on a carpet track that lets you carry a LOT of speed. I can't count how many times I've tried to knock the walls down and so far I bent a rear hinge pin and broke the plastic bulkhead.
Hahaha I have done the same thing on our carpet track. Maybe I just forget to turn

The aluminum/brass bulkhead is a great buy/upgrade in my opinion.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:35 AM   #19315
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nothing is going to stop anyone from destroying the rear wings. i suggested the associated branded wings for replacements. they are dirt cheap
Run this wing and you will never hurt it I have been running mine about a year, its a little heavy but it is bulletproof.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...800abk/p267310
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:44 AM   #19316
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Run this wing and you will never hurt it I have been running mine about a year, its a little heavy but it is bulletproof.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...800abk/p267310
That looks interesting. I'd be worried about adding that much weight so high on the chassis but it might be good for practice days.
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:51 AM   #19317
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Any hints on how to fit a Reedy Blkbx 800Z ESC and a Futaba R614 in with a shorty pack? Seems it's all a bit too cramped. Unless I remove the bulkhead and fasten the battery another way(I don't want to tape the battery in, needs to be removable.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:19 AM   #19318
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Any hints on how to fit a Reedy Blkbx 800Z ESC and a Futaba R614 in with a shorty pack? Seems it's all a bit too cramped. Unless I remove the bulkhead and fasten the battery another way(I don't want to tape the battery in, needs to be removable.
The esc is not very large. I assume the issue is the receiver. I would use a schelle battery strap to eliminate the front foams, then put the cap in the battery tray to give a little more space
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:29 AM   #19319
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It's the ESC. It just barely fits. and with the cap it takes up all the room. Just surprised it's so hard to layout decently using all their products.

That might be the ticket, remove the bulkhead between the screwdowns. I could slide everything back a touch.

Thanks for the info on that. I was thinking of cutting the foam and having a gap, but that's an easier way to do it.

Last edited by Hauptmann6; 03-30-2016 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:45 AM   #19320
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It looks like a decent amount of room in this pic. Not sure how big it is compared to the 410r but I got it all in mine without cutting..
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