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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:43 AM   #19261
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Move the right shock out and the left shock in and see which you like better. LOL!
I found that when you move the shocks out it will allow the rear to come around more.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:27 AM   #19262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel_russ615 View Post
I ran my b5m last week and while it was good I thought it could use a little more rotation in the rear end. I'm running kit settings in the rear with black dirt webs on med grip indoor. I was told moving the top rear shocks out by one pro and the opposite by another pro. Any ideas? Thanks
I haven't tried it yet but someone at my track suggested going to the white spring in the rear.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:19 AM   #19263
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I'm using white springs front and rear. 32.5 oil front 30 in the rear
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:03 AM   #19264
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Read some old threads about replacing inserts and what not to get the buggy super tight. Is there any new info on removing slop from the rear Hingepins? How about the inserts in the front ? I read jconcepts came out with some aluminum replacements for the front hubs and camber link. Just curious what everyone is now doing and if tightening up all the natural AE slop makes a difference? Just bought a badass roller from a member here with every upgrade imaginable almost and want the car to live up to its fullest potential

://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/780905-official-team-associated-rc10-b5m-mid-motor-thread-785.html
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Question for the guys running with taped in batteries. I'm just getting ready to run 2wd buggy for the first time. My history is mostly nitro and 4wd sct. I'm trying to understand how you only run 1 battery. I'm thinking if I only ran one pack. It would take a long time between runs on practice nights. Where previously I've always had 3 and rotated them.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:54 AM   #19265
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Ok guys...Indoor is over. Debating whether to run my b5m outdoors on a predominantly 1/8 scale larger track. Couple guys say no (ones I trust) car takes a beating, some say yes. I am running 1/8 this year but want to run two classes. 2wd typically isn't a big turnout but does run. Just curious if you guys typically keep your b5m indoors on high bite track only. Hate to put on shelf for 6 months. I'm a once a month race + 2 practices a month guy. If I run outside any setup or durability tips, must haves? ...i.e aluminum mounts etc. thx
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:12 AM   #19266
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I race outdoors all year long. Tell your buddies to man up. It is "'offroad" racing after all. If you go back to where/when people started racing in the 80s it wasn't indoors. Honestly, IMHO racing should be outside on dirt but it is pretty cool that we now have different surfaces to race on these days. I don't think much of offroad carpet because its like onroad with speed bumps but, then again, I haven't tried it. I could change my mind. I'm reasonable.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:24 AM   #19267
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My B5M is indoor only... not going to mess with it on a huge blownout dusty 8th scale track. I have a Losi e buggy for that.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:36 AM   #19268
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I race outdoors all year long. Tell your buddies to man up. It is "'offroad" racing after all. If you go back to where/when people started racing in the 80s it wasn't indoors. Honestly, IMHO racing should be outside on dirt but it is pretty cool that we now have different surfaces to race on these days. I don't think much of offroad carpet because its like onroad with speed bumps but, then again, I haven't tried it. I could change my mind. I'm reasonable.
Man up .. Haha. I like that. It's tough I drive an hour to the track and want to get my time/money worth. I hear ya though getting back into the hobby a couple years ago my idea of 'rc off road' took me back to when I was a kid and had a tamiya grasshopper. In other words 2wd outdoor buggy is why I got back into it.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:55 PM   #19269
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Default Shock Shafts

How do you guys tighten the threaded piece to the shock shafts without scratching the shafts and scuffing them all up? I find that even if I use a paper towel or even rag with several layers and needle nose or vise grip pliers they get all screwed up.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:07 PM   #19270
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Originally Posted by nbartlet1 View Post
How do you guys tighten the threaded piece to the shock shafts without scratching the shafts and scuffing them all up? I find that even if I use a paper towel or even rag with several layers and needle nose or vise grip pliers they get all screwed up.
Shock shaft pliers. I use these:
http://www.amazon.com/ST-Racing-Shoc...k+shaft+pliers

Also helps to use a tap to thread the plastic eyelets before screwing them on.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:18 PM   #19271
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I agree that racing should be on dirt. But racing a 1/10 scale buggy on a 1/8 scale with huge jumps really isn't very fun. Loose 1/10 tracks are actually loads of fun with the mid motor platforms. They are more forgiving when the rear end breaks free.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:29 PM   #19272
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On a 1/8 track with 2wd it's not the jumps exactly the issue its the bumps and ruts that running a 2wd buggy it's just not fun .
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:52 PM   #19273
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The closest track to me is pure 1/8 use go be more 1/10 friendly but I guess they wanted to bring big races so you can't even run a 4x4 sct there, but there's other tracks because buggy is so fun!
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:12 PM   #19274
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Get real Joe! Who's gonna rebuild shocks at the track for a club race? How about we negotiate and agree on bleeding or releasing the pressure in the shocks at the track. I screwed up putting wheels on a fellow racers car last night and they started the race without us! If I had to rebuild shocks I would have missed a round of qualifying. Not everybody gets to the track at noon when racing starts at 6:00. You've been racing nitro too long!!!!
Haha.

Here I am in between rounds ripping shocks apart, changing pistons, droop, fluid etc every round....You gotta take your time and focus, it can be done quickly.

That said, yes, you should be rebleeding shocks every race day. Shocks are not built at home, then taken to the track a few days later and expect them to work OK. Because density altitude changes daily, you need to rebleed to equalize the pressure from outside to inside the shock.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:03 PM   #19275
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Anyone know how the mip eco top shaft lines up with CB cut gears?

It looks like the gear isnt as wide as the stock top shaft and i was wondering if it was "cut to center" or "justified" off to one side and might not line up nice with cut gears?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/mip-17....p15080/p449867
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