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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:50 AM   #19171
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I was working on a kids car last week that had REALLY sticky ball cups. He broke a front arm and when I unhooked the shock the suspension stayed in the position that I released it at, lol. I've never really worked with this kid before but his car has always looked like it was overdamped and like he had no grip whatsoever. I went through and squeezed the crap out of all his rod ends and low and behold, his car looked much better and he was able to vastly improve his lap times and qualifying position.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:01 AM   #19172
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Lol please..
I Do not own this particular track nor have anything to do with the rules. I show up to have some fun that's it. The other tracks I race at that have a stock class are all 17.5 blinky. No I don't buy cheap motors I went from the Mach 2's in my cars to Mach 3's.. Never tried a track star but let's
continue on for Gods sake
Easy now lol... we were just curious. Your first post really wasn't that clear. No biggie.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:46 AM   #19173
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Yes, lets move along....
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:47 AM   #19174
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Anyone ever have an issue with the steering alignment on the B5M? I'm using a Protek server and I bought the aluminum server horn. The horn does not fit precisely on servo at 90 degrees. (I turned on the servo to center it before putting the horn on) However, I set up the car and measured the toe in and it is 2 degrees up front on both sides. However, I noticed the turnbuckle lengths on the left and right are significantly different. Will this manifest itself in the cars handling, and if so, any ideas why this is happening and how to fix the issue?

Thanks all!
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:51 AM   #19175
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Originally Posted by RCFAN 78 View Post
Anyone ever have an issue with the steering alignment on the B5M? I'm using a Protek server and I bought the aluminum server horn. The horn does not fit precisely on servo at 90 degrees. (I turned on the servo to center it before putting the horn on) However, I set up the car and measured the toe in and it is 2 degrees up front on both sides. However, I noticed the turnbuckle lengths on the left and right are significantly different. Will this manifest itself in the cars handling, and if so, any ideas why this is happening and how to fix the issue?

Thanks all!
Im pretty sure that the horn is supposed to be 1 spline to the left (when viewed from the back) and not 90
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:54 AM   #19176
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Originally Posted by RCFAN 78 View Post
Anyone ever have an issue with the steering alignment on the B5M? I'm using a Protek server and I bought the aluminum server horn. The horn does not fit precisely on servo at 90 degrees. (I turned on the servo to center it before putting the horn on) However, I set up the car and measured the toe in and it is 2 degrees up front on both sides. However, I noticed the turnbuckle lengths on the left and right are significantly different. Will this manifest itself in the cars handling, and if so, any ideas why this is happening and how to fix the issue?

Thanks all!
Even up the turnbuckles and set trim via transmitter...
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:59 AM   #19177
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Im pretty sure that the horn is supposed to be 1 spline to the left (when viewed from the back) and not 90


Thanks, so if I am looking at it from the back, the server should be leaning one spline to towards the drivers side?
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:07 AM   #19178
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Originally Posted by RCFAN 78 View Post
Thanks, so if I am looking at it from the back, the server should be leaning one spline to towards the drivers side?
Actually just checked and the manual states 90. All the old B4's had 1 spline off. Are you using the proper servo horn? Toe settings should be adjusted so that the wheels point straight ahead. The turnbuckle length should be pretty close to each other. You can fix and alignment with sub-trim and trim within the radio, make sure to reset your EPA after messing with any trim though.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:12 AM   #19179
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Actually just checked and the manual states 90. All the old B4's had 1 spline off. Are you using the proper servo horn? Toe settings should be adjusted so that the wheels point straight ahead. The turnbuckle length should be pretty close to each other. You can fix and alignment with sub-trim and trim within the radio, make sure to reset your EPA after messing with any trim though.
I purchased the aluminum horn for the servo (25T....I think). It fits like a glove, but the teeth are off a bit, so its probably 5 degrees towards the passenger side. Most guys at the track I intend to race at toe in the front between 1-2 degrees. I'm thoroughly perplexed as to why the turnbuckle lengths are off, but yet the car drives true with my trim set at about 4.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:13 AM   #19180
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Took the car to our freshly re-built indoor dirt track yesterday (Mhor RC, Aurora CO). First time in 10 years I've driven an RC car, and probably another 10 before that on a track.

Car felt really good out of the box. There is a pretty wicked cross-over jump that needs incredible entry precision on in order to keep speed up. Other than my slipper clutch being too loose (and after a couple quarter turns, think it still might be) the car did phenomenal for the factory setup. I'm running Dirt Webs and I had no problem that I could blame on tires.

I have the battery set full-back (small foam shim behind it) and may try moving it forward with the bigger block for a little bit more steering input, and I'm going to talk to some folks about what springs they are running, or if my problem is that I'm just landing the car too nose high.

Otherwise, thanks for all the tips in this thread
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:24 AM   #19181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCFAN 78 View Post
I purchased the aluminum horn for the servo (25T....I think). It fits like a glove, but the teeth are off a bit, so its probably 5 degrees towards the passenger side. Most guys at the track I intend to race at toe in the front between 1-2 degrees. I'm thoroughly perplexed as to why the turnbuckle lengths are off, but yet the car drives true with my trim set at about 4.
Did you get one of the Team Associated labeled ones here:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s...n&fb=209&lg=fb

or just a generic horn for the servo. The AE horns are made a certain length to get the proper throw. The link above are the new protek horns that are the same specs as the plastic AE horns. Throw (EPA) should be relatively equal (within a few points) from left to right
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:54 AM   #19182
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Did you get one of the Team Associated labeled ones here:


or just a generic horn for the servo. The AE horns are made a certain length to get the proper throw. The link above are the new protek horns that are the same specs as the plastic AE horns. Throw (EPA) should be relatively equal (within a few points) from left to right

I purchased the "ProTek RC Aluminum Servo Horn (25T-Futaba/Orion/Savox/ProTek". Should I purchase the clamping one?
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:05 AM   #19183
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You should get the one labeled as Team Associated. This isn't the problem though. You need to trim the servo so that the proper horn is at 90. Then adjust the steering tierods to the proper length and then adjust your EPA.
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:11 PM   #19184
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Originally Posted by intercede007 View Post
Took the car to our freshly re-built indoor dirt track yesterday (Mhor RC, Aurora CO). First time in 10 years I've driven an RC car, and probably another 10 before that on a track.

Car felt really good out of the box. There is a pretty wicked cross-over jump that needs incredible entry precision on in order to keep speed up. Other than my slipper clutch being too loose (and after a couple quarter turns, think it still might be) the car did phenomenal for the factory setup. I'm running Dirt Webs and I had no problem that I could blame on tires.

I have the battery set full-back (small foam shim behind it) and may try moving it forward with the bigger block for a little bit more steering input, and I'm going to talk to some folks about what springs they are running, or if my problem is that I'm just landing the car too nose high.

Otherwise, thanks for all the tips in this thread
Sounds cool glad u like the car!
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:15 PM   #19185
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Originally Posted by intercede007 View Post
Took the car to our freshly re-built indoor dirt track yesterday (Mhor RC, Aurora CO). First time in 10 years I've driven an RC car, and probably another 10 before that on a track.

Car felt really good out of the box. There is a pretty wicked cross-over jump that needs incredible entry precision on in order to keep speed up. Other than my slipper clutch being too loose (and after a couple quarter turns, think it still might be) the car did phenomenal for the factory setup. I'm running Dirt Webs and I had no problem that I could blame on tires.

I have the battery set full-back (small foam shim behind it) and may try moving it forward with the bigger block for a little bit more steering input, and I'm going to talk to some folks about what springs they are running, or if my problem is that I'm just landing the car too nose high.

Otherwise, thanks for all the tips in this thread
Another coming back into the hobby, welcome back! Sounds like you're having a blast, best of luck!!
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