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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-05-2015, 11:02 AM
  #19141  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I've had them for two months, and couldn't be happier with them.
dude, you buy everything, Rich people make me sick , lol. I guess compared to motor cross this is cheap for you, huh
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:16 AM
  #19142  
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So does the HD axle use a different bearing? I don't see how the axle could have a bigger diameter to make the hex tight while still using the stock bearing.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:22 AM
  #19143  
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Originally Posted by raceguy13
So does the HD axle use a different bearing? I don't see how the axle could have a bigger diameter to make the hex tight while still using the stock bearing.
Why not call AE and ask? Don is a super nice guy, and if he knows, he'll tell you. I would assume they're the same, though.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:58 AM
  #19144  
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Originally Posted by raceguy13
So does the HD axle use a different bearing? I don't see how the axle could have a bigger diameter to make the hex tight while still using the stock bearing.
The bearing diameter is already larger than the portion the hex clamps to. So they have room to increase the diameter of only the part the hex clamps to, without changing bearings. Just look at the link Wildcat posted to the titanium axles. You can clearly see the part of the axle the bearings sit on is a larger diameter than the hex portion.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:39 PM
  #19145  
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With the kit being designed "to excel in classes requiring spec motors and for certain track conditions that allow the racer to take full advantage of the performance offered from reduced weight" make this not a good choice for 13.5 and lower turn motors?

Would you need to add weight (basically negated the advantages of the kit) to make it handle well in modified? I don't see the sense of buying a lightened kit and then adding weight.

I would run it at a high grip indoors (slicks) and large outdoor (1/8th style track, not sure of tire).
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:45 PM
  #19146  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
If you want to use the +5mm hex width, you can use the current front hex on the rear.
I believe you need to add 1mm per side if you use the front hexes....at least thats what I came up with when I measured my JC hexes.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by air8
Hard to get the angle with my phone. But there is less than a 2mm gap. But the battery is crazy loose in there. It slides forward easy. I guess with my layout I could just stuff foam in there.


DOH! I misunderstood. I thought they were bowing. Just put a piece of foam to the underside of the hold down
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:47 PM
  #19148  
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Originally Posted by sneako
With the kit being designed "to excel in classes requiring spec motors and for certain track conditions that allow the racer to take full advantage of the performance offered from reduced weight" make this not a good choice for 13.5 and lower turn motors?

Would you need to add weight (basically negated the advantages of the kit) to make it handle well in modified? I don't see the sense of buying a lightened kit and then adding weight.

I would run it at a high grip indoors (slicks) and large outdoor (1/8th style track, not sure of tire).
A car will only handle as well as its operator has set it up. Regardless of weight, a car is limited on its setup and tire selection. Weight is subjective, it all comes back to driver ability and setup. No two cars are alike, and in this world of customization, a set up for a car that weights 1600 grams would work well on a car that weights 1450 grams.
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:17 PM
  #19149  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Too rich for my blood. But then again my B5M is mod only. Have a B5 for stock. Out of the box lightness.... How would these things even hold up in the event of a punt, or direct hit to the axle?
These are made with a high strength grade 5 titanium. They are much stronger than the crappy Chinese steel that the kit uses. Sheer strength is 80,000 PSI. So they will hold up much better than the stock axles and weigh half as much, also since the weight is being removed from the furthest end of the drivetrain it has a bigger effect that a weight loss and the center.
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:05 PM
  #19150  
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Originally Posted by scythe23
These are made with a high strength grade 5 titanium. They are much stronger than the crappy Chinese steel that the kit uses. Sheer strength is 80,000 PSI. So they will hold up much better than the stock axles and weigh half as much, also since the weight is being removed from the furthest end of the drivetrain it has a bigger effect that a weight loss and the center.
Would it be benificial to add the weight back to the center of the chassis and still benefit from less sprung weight?

Hope I worded that right.
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by air8
Would it be benificial to add the weight back to the center of the chassis and still benefit from less sprung weight?

Hope I worded that right.
From a purely mathematical/handling standpoint, absolutely. Unless your pocketbook or significant other doesn't agree, then you would not benefit from it.
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:59 PM
  #19152  
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Originally Posted by Krio
From a purely mathematical/handling standpoint, absolutely. Unless your pocketbook or significant other doesn't agree, then you would not benefit from it.
LOL.
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Old 03-05-2015, 04:17 PM
  #19153  
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Originally Posted by Krio
From a purely mathematical/handling standpoint, absolutely. Unless your pocketbook or significant other doesn't agree, then you would not benefit from it.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:00 PM
  #19154  
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Originally Posted by sneako
With the kit being designed "to excel in classes requiring spec motors and for certain track conditions that allow the racer to take full advantage of the performance offered from reduced weight" make this not a good choice for 13.5 and lower turn motors?

Would you need to add weight (basically negated the advantages of the kit) to make it handle well in modified? I don't see the sense of buying a lightened kit and then adding weight.

I would run it at a high grip indoors (slicks) and large outdoor (1/8th style track, not sure of tire).
At my local clay indoor track, the guys running mod have all the upgrades offered with the 5M Lite (SLRC chassis, Ti turnbuckles, 3-gear....)

The benefit of having an overall lighter machine will be that you can strategically place the weight as a tuning aid if necessary.

I think what they meant with the phrase you quoted was that the car was redone to be more spec class friendly. This does not take away from the car's ability to succeed in the modified class. If you're running a loose track, you may decide you want a 4-gear transmission instead. Other than that, the lightened chassis, titanium turnbuckles and the aluminum rear ball stud mount are very typical upgrades for mod class racers.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:08 PM
  #19155  
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new to associated buggies I preordered the b5m light. Any parts that are known to break and what upgrades are essential.
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