Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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  • Slipper eliminators can make u faster in extremely high bite surfaces but that's only if you have the skill to use them properly because they have no give like a slipper would so it really depends on how good of a driver u are
  • Quote: Thank you! there are just so many steps along the building process that can bring out the inner OCD. I know I had plenty of those moments.

    And I agree that soldering will take more practice. I learned it by fixing a horrible job my LHS did for me on another chassis (bad joints, burn marks on the motor and surrounding plastics) and was looking forward to apply that knowledge towards a clean slate, so here we are. For everything else like the wire bundling and parts selection, I was just trying to emulate what I read and saw from knowledgeable folks like yourself.

    Here's a rough break-down, and welcome (more like curious) to hear any feedback. Maybe there isn't much to say.
    • B5M Factory Lite
    • Reedy 800Z Blackbox ESC + Sonic 540 M3 17.5T System
    • Airtronics RX-461 FH4T & MT-4 TX
    • 69T spur, 31T pinion (Robinson racing), as per the factory recommendation
    • 32wt shock fluid in front and back, as per the factory recommendation
    • Reedy 2s 5200 mah 50C saddle pack
    • Jconcepts bar codes on AE wheels (blue, F/R)

    Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieif I ever wanted to take it out.
    That OCD will get you every time! I hear great things about the black box, if I didn't love my Orion and Tekin I would have spent the money on it. Also I know many people here are happy with the M3.

    Stock setup is the best place to start and then as you make upgrades slight changes from there based on what you are feeling. The best thing to do it talk with others at your local track, there's no one better than others who have a ton of experience locally.

    My local hobby shop is also always willing to help, give tips, even between and after races he is always willing to help me out with some tips.

    The Teflon cover, you mean that plastic nut with the ears? You may be able to trim it a little so that you can easily insert and remove it.

    Good luck and be sure to post up your opinions on your electronics and the kit. There are great people on here willing to help.
  • Quote: That OCD will get you every time! I hear great things about the black box, if I didn't love my Orion and Tekin I would have spent the money on it. Also I know many people here are happy with the M3.

    Stock setup is the best place to start and then as you make upgrades slight changes from there based on what you are feeling. The best thing to do it talk with others at your local track, there's no one better than others who have a ton of experience locally.

    My local hobby shop is also always willing to help, give tips, even between and after races he is always willing to help me out with some tips.

    The Teflon cover, you mean that plastic nut with the ears? You may be able to trim it a little so that you can easily insert and remove it.

    Good luck and be sure to post up your opinions on your electronics and the kit. There are great people on here willing to help.
    I think that's what he was asking about. I never even put that thing on, never has been an issue for me but I race indoors on clay tracks, I guess if you were on a dusty surface it may help having it on...
  • Quote: I think that's what he was asking about. I never even put that thing on, never has been an issue for me but I race indoors on clay tracks, I guess if you were on a dusty surface it may help having it on...
    True, I run on carpet myself. I am always making sure everything is in good condition and clean.
  • Quote: Is this the Serpent wing you're using?

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...500189/p269221
    No, I'm not finding the one I have. I'll have to double check that it's not something else or a test unit.
  • Is there any reason to get anything better (or just more expensive) than a Hobbywing justoc for 17.5 raving? I don't plan on doing anything other than 17.5 ever and a friend of mine needs an esc. I could always give him mine and upgrade if there is a reason. Or just have him buy a justoc.
  • Quote: Is there any reason to get anything better (or just more expensive) than a Hobbywing justoc for 17.5 raving? I don't plan on doing anything other than 17.5 ever and a friend of mine needs an esc. I could always give him mine and upgrade if there is a reason. Or just have him buy a justoc.
    no. the juststock is the single best bang for the buck ESC on the market... it gives up absolutely NO performance, power output, or smoothness due to it's price. It's very hard to beat.
  • My wife's CE





  • Quote: My wife's CE





    Looks great!! I'm trying to get my fiancÚ into racing, I just bought her a DEC410v4. Figured 4wd would be easier for her to drive.
  • who makes that clear spur gear cover
  • Quote: Looks great!! I'm trying to get my fiancÚ into racing, I just bought her a DEC410v4. Figured 4wd would be easier for her to drive.
    Yeah my wife started out with a Losi SCTE 2.0.
  • Quote: who makes that clear spur gear cover
    MIP
  • I'm in the process of rebuilding my shocks. Can anybody point me in the direction of the lower shock cap o rings? I bought rebuild kits but they aren't in there. Also, do shock bodies ever need replacing?
  • Quote: no. the juststock is the single best bang for the buck ESC on the market... it gives up absolutely NO performance, power output, or smoothness due to it's price. It's very hard to beat.
    You want a good "Bang for the buck" option: The Trackstar Turbo 120a ESC for $43!
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=69418
  • Quote: I'm in the process of rebuilding my shocks. Can anybody point me in the direction of the lower shock cap o rings? I bought rebuild kits but they aren't in there. Also, do shock bodies ever need replacing?
    ASC31327 is the part number but those probably wont ever need replaced unless they just wear out or break... Probably why they're not in the kit.